Cliff\'s 1st Gen Purchase - Goldie

[CHC (RIP)]

I\'ll get fixed up one way or another - even if I end up fabricating one from stainless plate myself, but would prefer a manufactured part for sure.

I\'m beginning to wonder about the previous owners idea of the welding been done - perhaps bodged up might be the comment in months to come but shall have to wait and see on that count.
As I said the other day, what **sses me off are people who simply plate over the corroded area and weld up without removing the corrosion first - what a complete and utter waste of time but then again I suppose they do this as a short term resolve and then get rid of the offending vehicle.
So the plating in the boot area for sure shall have to be removed to allow access to remove the corrosion before being re-plated with stainless material and welded properly - do a job once I say and do it right.

Sorry mate - I still hate that green with a passion.

[captainbizzaro]

Thats a shame about your experience with the Mazda dealer-I\'ve got to say the guys at my local one have been spot on but I think it\'s because one of the parts blokes is old school and has fond memories of the FB\'s-especially as they had a lot of Elfords go through there being in Bournemouth and all. They also still have their original microfiche of exploded diagrams covering FB\'s which is rare-only 3 or 4 left in the UK I believe.

[CHC (RIP)]

Thats a shame about your experience with the Mazda dealer-I\'ve got to say the guys at my local one have been spot on but I think it\'s because one of the parts blokes is old school and has fond memories of the FB\'s-especially as they had a lot of Elfords go through there being in Bournemouth and all. They also still have their original microfiche of exploded diagrams covering FB\'s which is rare-only 3 or 4 left in the UK I believe.

That\'s gr8 news Tim, they really sound as if they know what they\'re about  - I might be asking for their details, will keep you posted.
Ta

[A7RXY]

The dealer I use, has to get his old mricofiche machine out, so I give him the part no, if known, and he gets back to me if its available or not, most of the time the parts have to come from Belgium, but then again I have been using this dealer for a few years now.

[CHC (RIP)]

Obviously a little awkward for him but at least he makes the effort for the customer.
This then leads to my next question Dibs, where can I find the part number for the rear lower valance?  I have the Black Dragon catalogue but it is not referenced there - could you help on this one at all?
Thanks
Cliff

[A7RXY]

Sorry Cliff I can\'t help with that one, maybe David can.

[syebba]

Cliff,
Ian or i should be able to find valence part nos,we have adobe files.
I\'ll look later 4 you.
ta stu..

[A7RXY]

Stu
   Any chance of getting a copy of the adobe file ?
   Dibs

[syebba]

Yes dibs,me or ian will sort u out.
It\'s handy going to a mazda dealership with part nos as many of them can\'t be arsed or don\'t have the info.
Only thing u have to be aware of it\'s a US parts list,most parts are the same but,mirrors,front indicators,wipers etc are different.
If Dave can post up his part nos,i\'ll cross reference it with my adobe files to see if it matches.
 
If u order the wrong part mazda won\'t refund u the money[back ordered parts].
 
Is the rear valence different in the US,ie which side of the car does the exhaust exit?
Gotta go to work now,i can look on US ebay to see exit side.
ta stu..

[syebba]

It would be a good idea to list part nos on 1st gen site for future easy reference.

[A7RXY]

Great Stu, good idear about putting on the site aswell .............
 
  Dibs

[CHC (RIP)]

Thanks for the info guys - would be appreciated.

[mooragerx7]

It came to the end of daylight so back into the garage for a further prod and poke around at paint bubbles @ the n/s rear hatch channel and more corrosion found.
It has also attacked the bottom section of the n/s rear window frame so will need to remove the glass - any suggestions for the easiest removal method would be welcomed.
 

to get my ones out i used mig welding wire and 2 sets of pliers  and a lot of time oh and a pair of thick leather (like the ones lorry drivers have) gloves because you cant always get the pliers where you want them not an easy job
then when they were out used a stanley blade to clean up the rest of the bonding agent

[mooragerx7]

I have left the rear valance off mine as i couldent get hold of one but then again my body kit covers up where mine should be anyway so im not that bothered im just thinking of it as weight saving :Giggle

[CHC (RIP)]

to get my ones out i used mig welding wire and 2 sets of pliers and a lot of time oh and a pair of thick leather (like the ones lorry drivers have) gloves because you cant always get the pliers where you want them not an easy job
then when they were out used a stanley blade to clean up the rest of the bonding agent

Hi Michael - a bit a cheese wire then hmmmm... ye sounds reasonable but how did this work out with the bottom edge?  Did you start at the front and work your way to the rear?
I\'ll try this out.  At the moment (and only done this for about 1/2 hr) I am using a high speed saw blade - very slowly of course.  So the cooler evening temperature shouldn\'t really bother me if I\'m doing this - phew, can\'t wait till I\'m finished.  Fortunately the top sloping edge was not sealed for about 50% of it\'s length (which in itself will probably have made way for corrosion to start on the inside edge), this made access easier and also less to do, so just about finished the top edge.