Big journey new project/scrapper

Started by kiwi-mick, March 21, 2010, 03:34:52 PM

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kiwi-mick

Quote from: David Nock;680952\'Twas on the \'Other Site\' Stu.
It came from out the depths of Wales like Llewelyn.....There\'s a name for him Mick!
 
So what\'s that? 300/350 mile trip for starters, surrounded by wine velour, behaving beautifully. Good little car I say.

you could say the depths alright(milford haven) yea about 300 miles on the train and 330 miles via road did it very well thou didn\'t miss a beat mechanically.
did a little digging at the rust areas with wire wheel, holes falling in everywhere only little but still not great. was hoping for at least some surface rust. looks like wheel arches are gone, channel around rear hatch needs most of it cutting out and repairing, repairs that have been done are badly done like square sill repairs and rust coming through nasty work i have to say..
also some of the floor pan looks like it needs to be cut and welded.
door frame where the door hinge attaches is gone anywhere else and no problem welding but there is a nightmare getting the door to be even when it\'s replaced.
it\'s not looking good guys.... won\'t decide till she\'s up on ramps thou she might be not worth repairing but at least the bits are worth more than i paid for her.. motor is excelent and has a performance exhaust...

RamoNZ

1st dibs on the exhaust if she is a no go Mick.

kiwi-mick

Quote from: RamoNZ;6810721st dibs on the exhaust if she is a no go Mick.

 
am going to copy exhaust in stainless for those who are interested don\'t fancy paying £450 for someone else to do some tig welding... not sure how much i can do it for but it\'s gotta be less than some people are charging

Ian65

isn\'t that exhaust stainless, I thought most performance exhausts were.

kiwi-mick

Quote from: Ian65;681085isn\'t that exhaust stainless, I thought most performance exhausts were.

nope def not stainless looks very much like the janspeed pictured in the leaflet you emailed thou ian, but in plain steel (maybe a copy) think Damian gave me copies for the exhaust invoice was around the £400 quid mark i thought at the time thats expensive for a mild steel exhaust
just looking at the invoice, it\'s a rotechnic\'s invoice £428.00 for exhaust plus £100 fitting even broken down as follows
twin front pipe £174.52
silencer middle£69.88
silencer front £104.62
rear silencer /t pipe £267.48
12a exhaust fitting kit £29.00
 
they have a discount on exhaust on bottom but also added £100 for fitting
either it\'s a performance exhaust or the engine has been ported it is noticablly more power full than my series 2 12a

Ian65

Quote from: kiwi-mick;681099nope def not stainless looks very much like the janspeed pictured in the leaflet you emailed thou ian, but in plain steel (maybe a copy) think Damian gave me copies for the exhaust invoice was around the £400 quid mark i thought at the time thats expensive for a mild steel exhaust
just looking at the invoice, it\'s a rotechnic\'s invoice £428.00 for exhaust plus £100 fitting even broken down as follows
twin front pipe £174.52
silencer middle£69.88
silencer front £104.62
rear silencer /t pipe £267.48
12a exhaust fitting kit £29.00
 
they have a discount on exhaust on bottom but also added £100 for fitting
either it\'s a performance exhaust or the engine has been ported it is noticablly more power full than my series 2 12a

That\'s stainless money.
There\'s a few breakers about with stainless systems on them... hardly worth making your own, usless you want a big bore custom system

RamoNZ

Point me in the right direction - I need headers and silencers and a backbox (might get a new one for £75 from fleabay though) but all price dependant...

kiwi-mick

Quote from: Ian65;681146That\'s stainless money.
There\'s a few breakers about with stainless systems on them... hardly worth making your own, usless you want a big bore custom system

 
would a big bore system improve power Ian?
or does the N/A 12a need back pressure i was always led to believe that as free flowing as possible was best but have read a bit about the "pulsing" helping to remove the exhaust from the chamber...

Ian65

The engine is basically a big air pump, there\'s no point in having a huge exhaust to extract the gases unless you can get the air/ fuel mixture in the induction side in sufficient quantities, usually with forced induction.
The more you can get in, the more you need to get rid of but for a N/A 12A in a road car, one of the off the shelf performance exhausts, like Janspeed or double S is fine.
They have been designed, tried and tested to have good gas flow with sufficient back pressure and scavaging properties.
A custom made large bore exhaust is a waste of money on a road car in my view.

Track cars are a different kettle of fish but the easiest, cheapest and quickest way to get more power from a standard 12A road car is to do the following....

1.ditch the airpump and restrictive ( and heavy) standard Mazda exhaust and put on a  good set of headers and a performance exhaust.

2.Drop the viscous fan for an electric one
 
3.convert your secondaries to manual operation

After this you\'re into engine mods, carbs, turbos, porting etc..... which = £££££\'s

captainbizzaro

Quote from: syebba;680866Hah,my nickname for pistonheads has been censored:Giggle
 
2 posts in 2 minutes,getting like captain bizzaro:Giggle
ta,ta:WaveBye

Ha, the cheek of it- I just don\'t like awkward silences:wave

mooragerx7

Quote from: RamoNZ;681233Point me in the right direction - I need headers and silencers and a backbox (might get a new one for £75 from fleabay though) but all price dependant...

that reminds me must have a look in the shed for theose headers

RamoNZ

Quote from: mooragerx7;681514that reminds me must have a look in the shed for theose headers

I\'m keen on the headers - still interested in the middle/rest of the system too.

I\'m trying to get a mot on this thing and only the exhaust and brakes are holding me up - I can\'t wait to drive it!

syebba

Quote from: captainbizzaro;681487Ha, the cheek of it- I just don\'t like awkward silences:wave

 
It was cheeky & very funny!:Giggle
 
Wondered when you\'d notice:rolleyes:
ta stu:WaveBye

kiwi-mick

Quote from: Ian65;681146That\'s stainless money.
There\'s a few breakers about with stainless systems on them... hardly worth making your own, usless you want a big bore custom system

for that sort of money(£464.23) i\'d expect a full stainless system but when i look at it , it\'s a very weird setup.
looks to be mild steel headers into flange then into a stainless front silencer connected to a straight single mild steel pipe to another stainless silencer then back to mild steel before going into a steel twin pipe back box.
I can\'t believe someone charged this sort of money for this, absolutly over charged in my opinion
I think rotechnik\'s stung this bloke a fair bit after seeing whats on the car and the invoice, this has definatly put me off yet another uk business, i\'d never use their services... another uk company on my S#@t list
yet another example of why i never let any british business touch anything of mine... do it yourself at least your not likely to get a part stainless system for the price of a full stainless system..
but to be fair the £464.23 did include VAT and a thermostat and a thermostat gasket and a fan belt....

Ian65

You\'ll probably find that this is a full stainless system.
The silencers are a higher grade stainless steel than the tubes, as it\'s the silencers that collect more condensation inside them and rust out first on most cars.
The tubes are still \'stainless\', but are a lower grade allowing for a bit of flexibility in the system.
100% pure stainless steel would fracture from time to time due to the movement in the system.
This is why the \' full stainless systems\'  tend to have a bit of surface corrosion on the tubular parts of the system..... most still come with lifetime guarantees though, which shows the confidence the manufacturers have in them.

Many people think that stainless steel is 100% pure and won\'t rust but most stainless isn\'t
Find some stainless ( in you kitchen for example) and put a magnet on it.
If it sticks, it\'s not 100% pure.

I can\'t see Rotechniks deliberately mis-describing this exhaust and charging over the top for it.
In my dealings with them, Ive found them to be spot on.