my 200mph rx7 build

[Aubec]

Im guessing your waiting for a koyo rad, how much did that cost you?

Picked up the radiator from parcelfarce today - the customs bill was about £38 on top of the £248 I paid the seller, so thats £286 all in, for the R1443N (N-flow model).

[turbotoaster]

Yip those are very good injectors, if I ever need more fuel I will change my setup to use these ID injectors

thought this info might be useful for you, dont know if you already know it but thought id share it anyway.

If you decide to order yourself some in the future you will need the 60mm length with the 14mm top oring.

got some data on flow at different fuel pressures from my supplier.



turned it into a little graph and seems pretty stable when you up the pressure:Giggle

[rbs14a]

thanks. its all on there website :WaveBye

[turbotoaster]

my new intercooler arrived today so i thought id chuck some pics up.

Now originally i had decided to go with a 70mm thick rs500 intercooler, the reason for this is that it would fit pretty well into the enginebay and is known to flow well for 700bhp.

When i was chatting to my manifold guy on msn he mentioned inlet/outlet sizes, i said well the standard cossie is 2.5inch throttle body and the rs500 was 3inch from what i had been told, so if its aimed at the 700bhp market then it will have 3inch pipes(it didnt say on the website) He recommended i check with them just incase.

I emailed them and they confirmed that they were infact only 2.5inch......since the outlet of my turbo is already being reduced from 3.5in to 3inch i didnt want to go down in size again, asking how much it would be to cut them off and weld in 3in he said £60-80, which would take the price of the cooler up to £370 which in my eyes was to much as i would have to make savings somewhere else to hit budget.

So then i looked at other options and come across this cooler i now have recieved.

They retail at £180 on ebay but luckily they had on that was on auction, with a bid of sniping i got it for £72!! Now i again need some work doing to it but its a big saving over the other cooler

the core is 600mmx290mmx120mm...yep its a thick one.

it has a larger overall capacity than the 70mm cooler and ive seen it push 900bhp in america so hopefully it will do the job for me.



big box arrives this morning!


woohoo, no damage anywhere


its rather thick


its also rather bloody heavy!


put in hot water for 10mins to test for any air leaks, seems fine:Thumbs-up


compared to standard cooler

now just need to do some measurements to compare it on the car to see what needs to be modded to fit

[SiH]

I\'m guessing you\'re going front mount rather than V then?

[turbotoaster]

yeh, ive just taken some measurements, i dont think it will fit in my engine bay, well it will but wont be low enough to get all the air first, i need to find a car with an empty engine bay, i was thinking of ringing pip to see if he has any cars hes rebuilding at the moment so i could see what its like, cant really do it with mine as id have to have the intercooler and rad out and then have to stick it all back in again after.

ive just been outside thought to confirm all my measurements and they are what i thought

the battery box sits 230mm high, the distance between the headlights is 810mm and the distance between the chassis rails is 710mm

Now this actually kind of solves a problem i thought i might come against with this cooler, since its nearly 5inches thick you get the problem that there isnt enough decent air getting to the rad and your water temps go up.

but because this cooler will sit quite high in the engine bay(same height as the battery box as stock) you will be able to get straight fresh air to about half the rad, the other half will pass through the cooler first.



this is a pic to try and help, the inlets will be cut off and then rewelded pointing backwards(backdoor if you will)

the only thing then is air always finds the path of least resistance so im gonna have to have a think on how i can force air to go through the cooler and not bypass it for the easier option of the rad

[DR SCHNITZEL]

The front mount IC i use, has 3" gaps each side of it, the rad is behind and is ducted to get the rest of the air as well as what goes through the IC. I ducted my radiator temporarily using jablite glue and duct tape, and i have noted my crusing temps are around 10- 15 degrees lower, you will be suprised at how many holes you can blank off to create higher pressure in front of the rad, IC. using duct tape for now just to see how it goes. 10 quid all in for ducting the rad

[shaunwil]

Wouldn\'t you have to go V-mount with that intercooler. It looks like a very tight air gap and you may find you get no real airflow behind it for a radiator. The FD ones are very free flowing.

Shaun

[turbotoaster]

The FD ones are very free flowing.
 
Shaun

do mean that the intercoolers you can buy for the fd are free flowing, ie the blitz ones? or something else.
 
Im at work at the moment, but ill draw the exact setup what it will look like from a side angle so you can see it when i get home tonight.
 
but roughly 1/2 the radiator will be covered by the intercooler, it will also be in the engine bay like the blitz one

[shaunwil]

The space between the cores are much bigger on the front mounts to allow more flow through the core to the radiator behind.

Shaun

[L18M]

or u can do this :rollin

[turbotoaster]

well im trying to avoid putting it into the bumper as it means longer pipework, its a big cooler and big turbo so i want to minimize distance the air has to travel if i can.

due to the size of the cooler it seems there space i have in the engine bay is where the battery box starts and also where it ends which is 266mm

the cooler is 120mm, rad is 73mm and id say the fans are 60mm but if anyone can confirm there width for me that would be brilliant....thats 253mm so im cutting it fine.

if i were to put it in the bumper i would backdoor the intercooler it anyway as the oil coolers get in the way trying to do it like the picture above.....plus it looks horrible!

here is an idea, what do you think




since the cooler shape means at its widest it will be around 810mm(where the inlets would be welded) there are other areas where is narrower, so it could be mounted completely flat and one end me closer to the front of the car as its only 290mm in height so at worst i could mount it in a vmount configuration, but then ill need to look after bonnets because i dont believe i can but 2bar of boost through it and it have no path to release the hot air

[SiH]

The air ill predominantly take the path of least resistance - I\'d got for a conventional setup.
With the setup above you are creating an inverse funnel before the IC, lowering the pressure, and therefore the speed at which the air flows through to the low pressure area in the bay.
But if you want to do the above, I\'d make sure you can adjust the angle of the divider to optimise the balance.

As for the pipework length - don\'t get hung up on it - in the real world it makes very little tangible difference. Even if it does, it will predominantly be in resonse, and as that\'s not what you are chasing, it\'d be sort of irrelevant - maximum cooling is the goal, surely?

[turbotoaster]

very true, the alloy plate to split the air was just an idea if one of the 2 temps went out of the range i wanted, or if the air ignored to intercooler and chose the easier option of the rad.

there is the option of doing this, looking at the picture id say it was about the same size, i just need to be careful that we can fit my big turbo and have room infront of it to fit my water injection


my only concern to be fair aswell was the radiator in vmount config, because im trying to stay on budget and i dont want to start welding the rad as thats not cheap, plus i need someone to make me brackets, i might speak to steve and see what he would want to charge me, since i moved out of my folks ive got no tools, just a box of sockets mostly

[SiH]

I managed to use a koyo N-Flow in a V config - if I can do it with an unmodified one of those, you can deffo do it with an OEM one.