How much play is acceptable....

Started by Nik da Greek, December 21, 2009, 02:16:01 PM

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Nik da Greek

....in the join in a Y-Pipe? Reason I ask is cos I\'ve got hold of an Efini Y-Pipe, the later one with the bolt-together metal crossover rather than the coupler-placcy one. However, there seems to be a lot of play in the join between the two halves of the Y-pipe itself. Either end can rotate freely, which I presume is to ensure correct alignment, but it can also be pulled "apart" quite a bit or angled at the joint, leaving a something of a gap there. This is the joint I mean;



Is this knackered, or is that how it should be? I\'ve got an early-version one that can be rotated at the join too, but it\'s a lot more stiff and doesn\'t move "apart" at all. Is this gonna make for a horrid boost leak? I mean, obviously once both flanges (ooooooh :D) are bolted up, it can\'t move at all, but is there still gonna be a leak where the join is? Don\'t wanna waste loads of time and effort polishing it up if it\'s just scrap. Or should I bolt it up and then seal round the join with VHT sealant?

BlitzBoy

put sealant and a way you go, it should seal anyway when its bolted up
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

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Nik da Greek

Ta, Mr Blitzen, sir :Thumbs-up. Loctite FTW, then :D

HaywardRotary

A new O ring will be the right way to do it.
Regards
Carl
We warranty our rebuilt engines for Detonation, track day\'s and RWYB and NOW for 30 months which is two and half years or 30,000 miles
We also build all types of race or road engines.
We build race and track cars too.
Any kind of porting undertaken.
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S

Nik da Greek

Thanks Carl. Will any O-ring the right size be OK, or does it have to be a super-expensive Mazda high temperature one or something?

mx1311

i have replyed on t\'other forum you massive gay! :Thumbsup!