Cold Start problem?

[grinder]

paid ....... ha ha ha

on a serious note - dont get paid anything - its the inner happiness knowing that i am helping others achieve a good working Rotary forum

at the end of the day - this is a great place to learn things - and i would hate to see anything bad happen to it

so its like when people help me , i repay by helping clive keep the forum running smoothly

well thats my attitude to it anyways

[Sean]

Hmmm. I could think of a few replies (but I don\'t want you to start using that ban button of yours) LMAO!:rollin

[grinder]

ha ha ha ha ooohhhhh dear !

you got the car running yet ?? ( yes to keep this topic on track ! )

[Sean]

Sorry sir!

Just the cold start prob left to eliminate till perfect running TII:(

[grinder]

i wish you luck matey !

do you fancy fixing mine when you have done yours ?

[grinder]

last but not least ...

If your check engine light is coming on at idle you need to find out what it is telling you.

To do so for RX-7\'s from 1988 on, (with the engine off but fully warmed up) find the single green wire in the wiring harness just in front of the left front suspension tower, near the front ignition coil.

Ground the connector on this wire (the wire will be hanging free, without its connector hooked to another wire) on the chassis, using a jumper wire, etc.

Sit in the car and turn the ignition switch on WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR. Immediately watch the check engine light. If everything is OK, it will not light. If it starts flashing, count the flashes. It may stop flashing for a couple of seconds, then start again. Each of those series of flashes is for a separate engine fault code. Multiple codes will display in order from low number to high.

Have a paper and pen handy, and write them all down. To check again, turn the ignition off and then back on. It will repeat the cycle.

Identify the first (tens) and second(ones) digits of each code as follows: The first (tens) digit will display (flash) for about one second for each count, with a one-half second pause between counts. For example, if the first (tens) digit is three, there will be three separate one second long flashes, separated between by one-half second pauses.

There is then a 1.6 second pause between the last flash of the first digit and the beginning of the second (ones) digit.

The second (ones) digit counts flash for only one-half second each, with pauses of one-half second between them. For example, if the second (ones) digit is seven, then there will be seven flashes of one-half second, separated by pauses of one-half second.

In this example, the displayed code will thus be "37".

The system will then pause for four seconds before proceeding to the next code, if any.

To clear the stored codes from memory, disconnect the negative battery cable, then wait for 5 seconds. It is useful to do so even when you have just retrieved the codes, but not fixed anything yet, to be certain the codes (problems) persist. Stored codes could represent several different problems that have arisen at different times. Just drive the car a bit, and see which codes persist.

Obviously, once things are fixed, you need to clear the codes a final time to be certain it is in fact fixed, and to know that any new stored codes have occured after the fix.

Mazda RX-7 codes (from Haynes Computer Codes Manual #10205) are as follows:

1 Ignition coil (trailing side)
2 Crank position NE sensor
3 Crank position G sensor
5 Knock sensor
8 Airflow meter (AFM)
9 Water thermosensor
10 Intake air thermosensor (AFM)
11 Intake air thermosensor (engine)
12 Throttle sensor - full range
13 Pressure sensor - intake manifold
14 Atmospheric pressure sensor (built in ECU)
15 oxygen sensor
17 Feedback system for O2 sensor
18 Throttle sensor - narrow range
20 Metering oil pump position sensor
23 Fuel thermosensor
25 Solenoid valve - pressure regulator control
26 metering oil pump stepper motor
27 Metering oil pump
28 Solenoid valve - EGR
29 Solenoid valve - EGR vent
30 Solenoid valve - split air bypass
31 solenoid valve - relief 1
32 Solenoid valve - switching
33 Solenoid valve - port air bypass
34 Solenoid valve -idle speed control (BAC)
37 Metering oil pump
38 Solenoid valve - accelerated warmup system and air supply valve
39 Solenoid valve - relief 2
40 Solenoid valve - purge control (auxilary port valve)
41 Solenoid valve - variable dynamic effect intake (VDI)
42 Solenoid valve - turbo precontrol
43 Solenoid valve - wastegate control
44 Solenoid valve - turbo control
45 Solenoid valve - charge control
46 Solenoid valve - charge relief control
50 Solenoid valve - double throttle control
51 Fuel pump relay
54 Air pump relay
65 Air conditioning signal
71 Injector - front secondary
73 Injector - rear secondary
76 Slip lockup signal
77 Torque reduced signal


Use the codes to direct you in fixing the car. Also remember that disconnected hoses, misrouted vacuum lines, or internal engine problems can be present without causing a code.

[Sean]

Flippin eck!!!!:eek

I found a loose green plug as described before behind the water pump. Just need to wait for her to cool down now:(

That means not driving it:burnout

Now the only things wrong with the car are the interioir lights mystery and the blowing exhaust!:cool

[grinder]

could be worse matey - you could have my car

went to jack it up last night to look at the front wheel bearings and managed to practically put the jack thru the front jacking point - had a look underneath and i could push my thumb thru the sill

then went into the centre of the car and it looks a right mess of rotting metal

not impressed

and it says

To do so for RX-7\'s from 1988 on, (with the engine off but fully warmed up) find the single green wire in the wiring harness just in front of the left front suspension tower, near the front ignition coil.

so you need the engine warm - not cold

[Sean]

Bloody hell !!!!!!!!!!!!

I\'m not doin all that. I\'m tryin to get it to work, not find more things that are wrong with it!!!!!!


I am sorry to hear about your motor ("price removed" who\'s laughing now hehe) ahem!

Seriously though ......... how long is the current MOT on it?

[grinder]

its MOT till september - so not sure what to do

run it till then and scrap the car - its done its job ?

or speak nicely to a few people and try and get it welded back up - the next door neighbour has a welder - so i might as him to have a play

at the end of the day - im gonna have a real good check tonight and see how bad it is - it may not be as bad as i thought - it just really scared me

oh yeah - i have taken the price out of the above post ( cause i can !! ) - no point telling every one what i paid

[Sean]

Sorry mate.

Didn\'t think it was that obvious that I was reffering to the price of your car.

See ......... your doing your job as a moderator already!!!!:cheers

If worst comes to the worst with your car, you know that it\'ll be worth more on here as parts than scrap value!

Lets face it ...... theres plenty of bits that I could use right now (have you finished with that exhaust?)

[grinder]

i dont think its that ready for the scrap heap - i will have a better idea by tonight though !

the biggest problem is that if this one goes - im not buying another rx7 - so i must try my best to keep this one

you got yours running right yet ? or did you try that last ecu check thingy ?

[Sean]

Just waiting for the car to cool down so that I can attempt another cold start.

If thats fixed then I\'m happy that the engine is right!!!:god at long last!!!!

When the exhaust is done, i\'ll be happy:D

[grinder]

ah right !

so whats wrong with the exhaust - is it just blowing ?

and was it the thermosensor that was making the cold start difficult

just out of interest - when you start it - do you keep the clutch pressed ??

[Sean]

Yes it\'s just blowing at a join that you can\'t get at on the ground, needs to be in the air - nothing pip couldn\'t do in 5 mins

And yes it was the thermosensor folks - so any one ever has the same trouble, look for a loose green plug in between the alternator and the water pump!

And yes I do press the clutch in. I do this on any vehicle with a clutch - it saves wear and tear unduely on the starter motor ( if you want to beat an egg, do you move the bowl with the egg inside it, or do you move the whisk)

Confussed?:confused:  I am!