Ada7\'s T-Rex

[Ada7]

Thats the problem, cant have both feet of 3 pedels. I hold it on the hand break on the line but its not strong enough and creeps foward
Would the EGT not go in the downpipe?

Adam

[Grant Monkhouse]

Yes but if your wanting to use the EGT to help with power production they need to be before the turbo so you can monitor what you injectors are doing by looking at the temps.

WI will bring the temps down if you get that which will help lean out the mixture a bit to gain HP.

[Grant Monkhouse]

I thought you meant the brakes for a burn out?

To hold the car on the line you could get a hydro hand brake. Prety cheap and it will hold the car dead on the line.

[Ada7]

Not heard of a hydro brake. Do you have any links?

Adam

[Grant Monkhouse]

I\'m mean a hydraulic rear hand brake. Like what the drift boys use. Trust me it will work good

[Ada7]

Seen the driftworks one. Do you know if they are easy to fit?
Would the brakes need rebleeding?

Adam

[Grant Monkhouse]

You will need to rebleed if you go hydro as you will be detouring the brake lines. Shouldn\'t be too hard to do as long as you have a brake line flare kit.

[Ada7]

They do have a line kit in their store too.
Think things over now about this as other seem to think its a bit over kill for my needs as you saw.
Cant seem to find the spin turn knob Colum mentioned though :o

Adam

[Grant Monkhouse]

I know they do but I think it\'s something so simple. And it will be good if you wana do some show off 180s at local meets lmao. It will also clean up rear discs as I remember mine being only partially used.

Ian uses the hydro hand brake for Haywards car and he said it was the easiest way to load everything up. Probably loaded the car up more then most as a hydro is stronger than a cable brake. Less initial stress on the gear box and diff when you launch

[Ada7]

Just seen the driftworks spin knob. For the sake of £10 i\'ll give that a go and tighen up the cable more and see how i get on next time. If i still have issues then maybe i\'ll man up to the hydro kit.
Line lock might be on the cards too as that doesn\'t look to pricey... but then there\'s fitting it :o

Adam

[Grant Monkhouse]

Line lock is a good option, get those tyres hot and sticky for sure.

A tenner is cheaper than the hydro for sure. Get some traffic light practice in.

[Ada7]

Yep thats a good plan

Adam

[Ada7]

Little update, another sticker one.
Seeing some guys were talking the :censored::censored::censored::censored: out of my wheels i thought i\'d carry on the joke and get some stickers made up for them.
Pete (V8-fd) made them for me and i can\'t praise him enough for sorting them out and going though bits again and again with me.
Anyway... here they are



What you think?
The paint will be touched up a bit, but they are only drag wheels so not needing to be show quality.

Adam

[Ada7]

Updated Spec list

Mazda 1999 Rx7 RB (Rex II)

Exterior

• Permaguard paint protection
• Mazdaspeed GT-C front bumper
• Veilside CII side skirts
• Abflug rear ¾ spats
• Knights Sport Twin Pop Up headlights
• Rotary Extreme Scoot Style boonet with bonnet pins
• Standard ’99 spec rear wing
• Standard ’99 spec rear lights
• Rx7 number plate
• Clear side repeaters
• Various stickers

Interior

• ’99 spec interior plastics
• Key’s Racing Flat type 325mm buckskin steering wheel
• HSB boss adapter
• Re-Amemiya quick shift gear knob. Red
• B&M quick shift gear stick
• Aluminium Sill covers.
• Defi Triple gauge housing. Oil temp/water temp/boost
• Blitz S-Spec boost controller
• R-Magic Power FC commander holder and commander
• Later carbon cloth seats
• Standard leather rear seats
• Safety devices rear half roll cage
• Unknown make Air vent clip on drinks can holder
• Relocate Red Top battery behind passenger seat
• Beaky

Wheels, Brakes and Suspension

• Tein super street coilover adjustable suspension
• Racing Beat uprated front and rear anti roll bars
• BBS CH alloy wheels 18x8.5
• Brembo Front callipers. Mazda standard rear brakes
• Kaaz 1.5way Differential
• Soild engine and differential mounts
• D1 Spec red wheel nuts
• Dragon Performance Gearbox and Diff Braces
• Standard FD wheels (Lego Racing style) with BFGoodrich drag radials for the strip

Engine

• ’99 spec 13B-REW engine – Oldone Racing Street port
• Apexi Power FC ECU. Mapped @ Re:worx
• TO4r Turbo on T51 Manifold. Mapped to 0.9bar. 441FWHP
• PTP Turbo blanket
• 044 fuel pump
• Billet Blitz secondary fuel rail with 1680 injectors
• Pineapple Racing Idler pulley kit
• Polised Pulleys
• Hand polished Plenum, Alternator, filler neck, TB, Water pump plate
• Greddy compression Throttle elbow
• Silicone hoses. Red
• Radtec V-mount system
• Cusco oil catch tank
• Racing Beat duel tip back box exhaust
• HKS ignition Amp
• Magnecor ignition leads
• Uprated fuel pressure regulator
• Uprated aluminium AST
• Custom made power steering and Brake fluid bottle caps. Aluminium
• Re-Amemiya Oil Cap
• Twin plate OS Giken clutch

Quickest time so far on the strip - 12.6 @ 113mph. More to come

Probably missed somethings :o

Adam

[Ada7]

First off i\'d just like to say that yes i\'m an idiot and should know better.

Went to get in my car this morning to take it for a drive and the battery was flat. This has happened a little lately due to it being a ridiculously small battery and the cold weather getting to it. Luckily i was meeting my parents in the village and a quick phone call to them diverted them my way.
Once the arrived a quick jump start off my dads car and i got mine going again. All good i thought....

Sadly not. I was taking the jump leads off when all of a sudden i noticed a huge cloud of white smoke coming out from under the bonnet. :censored::censored::censored::censored:!!!!! (I thought). Ran around and turned the car off and let the smoke blow away. Opened the bonnet to find rubber everywhere. The crank pulley had obviuosly come away, snapped in two and got curled up around itself.





As you can see, a right mess!
So now began the hunt to find a replacement. Seeing as i\'ve got rid of the air con pump and fitted a pineapple racing idle pulley kit i knew it would\'t be easy getting a correct replacement. I found out the length i needed online and then tried every motor factors i knew to see if they had one. No one did and in the end i have had to order one in at Halfords.

So why would the belt come off you maybe asking by now.

Well... lately i\'ve been having to top the water up every now and again and i think this might have diluted the coolent i had in the water system down to next to nothing. Seeing as the temps have dropped so much over the last few nights the water had frozen in the rad pipes and maybe the water pump itself (maybe even around the whole engine). When i turned the engine on i think the pulley was stuck and this caused the belt to rub untill it came off and snapped.
I next had to thaw out the pipes the best i could (Coolent i\'d bought in Halfords) and then with a bit of advice from the Oldone and incouragement from Nik da, via texts, I emptied out the water system and have left it for now till the new belt arrives and i can see if anything has been damaged inturnally.



Lovely colour dont you think?

Hopefully nothing bad has happened.

So the lesson for you all today is.... dont forget to add coolent to the water system. It can save you a whole lot of hassle trying to fix anything that may break and a few days of worry to find out if anything bad has happened to the block.

Keep your fingers crossed for me please :o

Adam