Using a pressure tester...

Jim_rx7 · July 24, 2009, 06:11:54 PM

How far do you build the block up? Simply just the block? Before you use the pressure tester?

Also, what all needs blocked off while using it, and what pressure do you put the tester too?

cheers!

Grizzly · July 24, 2009, 08:03:40 PM

I usually test it at the point where the basic block is assembled (Before i set the end float just in case i need to tighten the bolts a little)

As for what you need to block off, From memory there is a Pipe on the rear plate (Matrix pipe, Usaly just get a peice of pipe and plug it off with a Bolt or dowl) and i think there is a hole where the Inlet Manifold bolts on (usually put the old gasket on and bolt the Inlet manifold up to seal that but i\'m not sure if i\'m thinking of a T2 one i\'ve just done??)

Pressure wise i put about 10psi into it, if its going to leak you won\'t be able to get it up to 10psi using a Footpump, i would advise not using a Compressor simply because its easy to overshoot.

Don\'t forget you need to have it Torqued up and the degree\'s done before putting any pressure in it.

If you get a Minor leak (i.e. it holds pressure but it drops off over 10 minutes or so) let the air pressure off then tighten 10deg more and retest.

Jim_rx7 · July 24, 2009, 09:44:05 PM

What do you mean by the degree\'s done mate?? Lost me there?!

Torqued up, I get that.. but not the degree\'s part??!

"Don\'t forget you need to have it Torqued up and the degree\'s done before putting any pressure in it"

grinder · July 24, 2009, 11:23:32 PM

no idea what he is on about - but at a guess stick the spanner on the nuts and then tighten them 10 degrees ?? ( so 360 in a full circle - divide by 60 ( like a clock face ) and each minute would represent 6 degrees )

but like i said - i have NO idea what he is on about

Grizzly · July 24, 2009, 11:54:35 PM

Balls, sorry getting mixed up with the Crank nut, just checked and its 0 lbs, 20 lbs, 25lbs, then 28lbs step up procedure, if you need to over tighted it goes up in 10 deg.

Grizzly · July 25, 2009, 12:01:09 AM

Quote from: grinder;629524no idea what he is on about - but at a guess stick the spanner on the nuts and then tighten them 10 degrees ?? ( so 360 in a full circle - divide by 60 ( like a clock face ) and each minute would represent 6 degrees )

but like i said - i have NO idea what he is on about

That\'s about right, i use a Cam timing tool (like a big circle with 360 deg marked round the edge)

Jim_rx7 · August 13, 2009, 10:30:56 PM

So am I right in thinking there\'s a nozzle on the end plate that neads blocked off, also a pipe that comes off the top of the end plate that needs blocked off.

Anything else?

leon · August 14, 2009, 03:10:08 PM

Hi Jim,

Build the block up and torque the thru bolts down. attach the tester onto the front plate, You then need to block off two pipes one on the Right hand side of the rear plate that goes to the heater matrix, the other is on the top of the rear plate.

As said build pressure with a foot pump and see if it holds. also don\'t panic if it does not at first as i found my blocked pipes were leaking (testes with soap and water and watched the bubbles :Thumbs-up ) I also think i made a red pen mark on the gauge around 9psi so i could see if it droped over time.

Jim_rx7 · August 14, 2009, 06:15:15 PM

What pressure do you pump it up to??

leon · August 14, 2009, 11:38:47 PM

I\'m pretty sure I pumped mine to just over the pressure the cap was rated for 10 psi? found all the leaks i could do with the soap (all were the pipes i blocked) and let it sit for a few hours, incidentally i left it over night and it dropped a marginal amount :cool but an hour or so should be fine i imagine. :Hammer