omp removal

[danny_m94]

Removed my omp tonight and changed front cover gasket as one off the 2 is making an oil mess everywhere I go

I haven\'t got the time to remove the rat nest so can I just block the omp lines ends up or cut them them and melt them shut rather than removing the lines completly

[antnicuk]

you should be able to get to the 2 (FD) oil jets without removing the rats nest,  just put an appropriate size nut on the existing banjo bolt or use a short bolt.

I dont see why you couldnt crimp them shut if its done properly as a temp measure, i think the oil jet has somekind of one way valve in it.

Dont forget your premix.

Just out of interest,  did you remove the front hub bolt with the engine in situe?  if so, did you take the necessary precautions to stop the needle bearings falling off the spacer?

[danny_m94]

oh god now im worried. Cant quite work out what ya mean by the hub bolt. To get the front cover off i removed the bolt in the center of the main pulley and then all the bolts that held the cover on.

[antnicuk]

do you have a manual or build video?  

The front hub bolt is the big 19mm bolt that slides through the black oil seal in the front cover that the main pully is bolted to, this holds the assembly that\'s behind the cover all in place.  It consists of the counterweight, OMP gear, spacer, 2 washers and 2 sets of needle bearings. The needle bearlings sit on the spacer and cant move because the front hub bolt is done up to 95 ftlbs to hold in place. Once this is undone, the bearings can slip off the spacer, then when you tighten it back up you crush the needle bearing against the spacer. Your engine will start and run but wont last very long as you will chew the front assembly which will in turn give you massive end play allowing the Eccentric shaft to move backwards and forwards in the engine.

The manual and video\'s advise never to refit the hub bolt unless the engine is on its back (flwheel) with the front pointing upwards.

It can be done in situe very carefully,  you need to wedge a piece of wood against the clutch pedal which wont move and keeps the pedal fully depressed, this pushes the E shaft fully forwards.  Then very carefully remove the bolt,  If you have not disturbed or turned the engine much then you will probably be ok, but it may be worth checking.  You will need to remove the front cover, check eveything is in place, maybe use some grease or Pet jelly to help hold things in place, then carefully reassemble.  

Some of the expert engine builders on here may know better ways of checking.

[Prof]

I\'ve just done the gasket on my front cover, can\'t say replaced as there wasn\'t one on it before !
 
I used the clutch trick as well, and you can check that the torrington bearings haven\'t slipped by measuring the gap at the end of the shaft - in the Service Manual - it quotes the gap that should exist at the end of the shaft.
 
The main problem is that when you pull the pulley mount off, it can create a lot of suction that brings the rest of the assembly forward and then you\'re in the ......  I was lucky - there was so much oil sprayed in there that the pulley mount slid right off without disturbing the rest of it.  If you are in any doubt it\'s best to unstack everything off the front, and reassemble it with a little grease to keep it all in place.
 
For the FC this is in the lubrication section.  You are measuring the gap between the pulley mount and the end of the e shaft.  It should be about 2.44mm (FC) I would think FD is similar - but you should find out what that is supposed to be.  Any more than that and it\'s likely the bearing has slipped behind the spacer