What sort of power from BNR3 twin turbos?

[suba]

£2805 US dollars shipped to the UK without me providing any exchange parts. He also does reconditioned standard turbos for $900 according to their site - which is very good with the exchange rate as it is now depending on what exchange parts he would need for that price.

[suba]

OK - all the bits I need have arrived apart from the turbos, which should arrive soon.

when mapping the car what boost level should I go for that is not pushing things too far given that the car is going to be track day\'d?  I\'m not that keen on having to run race fuel - just v-power will do me fine.  I was thinking stick to a bar?  The turbo\'s are good for 1.2 - 1.3 bar, but I\'m not sure about the engine itself?

Should I stick to sequential on the turbo\'s (hope this question does not open a can of worms..):flamed

Engine is on stock ports, Greddy SMIC. (full spec in the first post on this thread.)

[BlitzBoy]

Stick to sequential (Why lose your bottom end power band lol)
1 Bar I would go for for high boost 0.8 Bar for low boost.
To go higher go Water Injection to keep it safe with pump fuel

[suba]

Thanks for the quick reply.

I\'m still a bit of a noob with the 13B - why do you need water injection when going over a bar?  (I\'m presuming just water rather than methanol mix?)

Would it be to stop detonation - could this not also be done by winding back the advance?  Or is it more to do with cooling the rotors / housings / tips?

[trevtubby]

Have you upgraded the fuelling at all mate?

Which cooling upgrades do you have, uprated rad? Would the Greddy SMIC not be pushed a bit when getting to the high 300`s? I know ive seen a few people running them at that, but surely you would be better off with a V-Mount or FMIC?

Maybe a  HKS Twin Power would be a good idea too?

Which boost controller do you have? Maybe get something like a Greddy Profec B Spec II and have a Hi and Low boost setting? 1.2 Bar for High for tracks etc and 1 Bar for Low for everyday driving.

[BlitzBoy]

Greddy SMIC is fine, seen them run on Medium singles.

WI will stop det as combustion temps rise past 1 BAR, its not like a Piston turbo engine where you see them regularly over 20 psi on Pump, you could wind back the advance but you lose power so whats the point in winding up the boost past 1 bar in that case.

Your mapper will be able to see whats needed as you ramp up the boost on the Dyno.They can see when you are running out of fuel delivery, ignition problems etc etc

You will run out of fuel a lot earlier then 1 BAR if you havent upgraded your fueling system

[suba]

The fuel system is going to get a full upgrade - rail, pump, injectors.  so getting the fuel in will be fine.

already controlling the boost with Greddy, and using a Lindop Motorsport bigger radiator (42mm I think from memory.)  Intake is now twin HKS kit, rather than ARC box.

I\'m not keen on going FMIC at the moment due to lack of pennies - if the IC I have will do the job then all the better.  I figure that if I dont boost the hell out of the BNR turbos then they should not produce too much heat for the IC to deal with...I may well look at some ducting to get the air to the IC better, which does not look like a tough job.

Blitz - does the water injection without methanol not effectively retard the ignition by damping the spark, therefore achieving the same result as retarding the ignition via the Power FC?

[BlitzBoy]

Yes with WI you do slow the burn, your AFRS will show up richer, so you can either keep the parameters the same on the tuning to keep it safe at high boost, or if you want to get maximum power from WI you trim the fuel map and can advance the timing but obviously if the WI system you install does not have the correct failsafes then you are at risk if it fails.

But by just retarding the ignition this does not lower combustion temps like WI does.

[suba]

Thanks.

Can you use the Power FC with a system like Aquamist to run dual maps that are switchable + switch to another pre-set map as a fail safe if there is an issue with the water injection?

[BlitzBoy]

one word no, Power FC does not have switchable maps.

The latest Aquamist systems can switch off the boost controller when a fault is detected eg (low water level,clogged jet,pump failure ect) so it will drop you down to wastegate pressure 0.5 bar

[suba]

:cheers Thanks.

[skybusr34]

its prob been said already but couldnt be arsed to read it all sorry but KEEP it sequential. why pay out 2300 quid for the twins then to put them in non sequential. you might as well buy a small single cheap turbo kit  which will do the same without all the soliniods. theres a lad on fduk thats just got over 400 hp from the bnr3s in sequential mode

[suba]

cool - was that on a non-ported engine?  Any idea what boost he was running?

[skybusr34]

dont know mate have a look on fduk. i would recomend someone who could advise you but i`d probably get banned for saying his name..........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[trevtubby]

It was a ported engine mate, 1.2 bar of boost.

spec list here, taken from FDUK:

Rebuilt engine by Tim Gray Motorsport using Hurley internals
Street Porting by Era
Removed A/C & Air pump
BNR sequential twin turbos
Uprated 100psi solenoid set
KG Parts secondary fuel rail with 1680cc injectors
Aeromotive FPR
Bosch 044 inline fuel pump with custom swirl pot using standard lift pump
HKS Twinspark
Radtec V mount with custom hard pipes
Custom cold air intakes
ACT clutch
Greddy downpipe
Custom silenced mid pipe
Greddy backbox
BC suspension kit
Dragon gearbox brace
Autoexe chassis bracing
Plumbed in fire extinguisher to engine bay
Corbeau bucket seats with Willans harnesses
99 spec throughout
Rota Torque Drift wheels
HID conversion

Link to the thread here;

http://www.fduk.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14621&highlight=bnr+twins