2nd gen idle problems

Started by richrx, May 23, 2009, 12:58:21 PM

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richrx

hey guys

i\'ve had my 2nd gen vert since january, when i bought it from Timo on this forum, and it just wont idle right at all! When its cold the engine wont hold its idle after the initial 30 sec warm up cycle, it just dies.

when its warmed up it sits between 500-900 rmp and is very rough. it does feel like a cracked tip, although all chambers are over 105psi and consistant, also it drives and boosts perfect.

so far i\'ve replaced the lamda and bac, the tps is next to be adjusted as it can kangaroo on small throttle openings at low rpm\'s.

any other ideas, im losing heart in her now :(


rik

grinder

sounds like you have a split air pipe or something - and you are getting un-metered air into the engine ??


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richrx

yep, seems the obvious choice, i\'ve checked each hose and there are no splits, hence why im sure its the sensor route. is there any ecu codes that might flag up any problems?

rik

grinder

errr yeah - although i have never had any sucess tyring to pull them from the ECU :(


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

peterwolds

Quote from: richrx;610281hey guys

i\'ve had my 2nd gen vert since january, when i bought it from Timo on this forum, and it just wont idle right at all! When its cold the engine wont hold its idle after the initial 30 sec warm up cycle, it just dies.

when its warmed up it sits between 500-900 rmp and is very rough. it does feel like a cracked tip, although all chambers are over 105psi and consistant, also it drives and boosts perfect.

so far i\'ve replaced the lamda and bac, the tps is next to be adjusted as it can kangaroo on small throttle openings at low rpm\'s.

any other ideas, im losing heart in her now :(


rik
mines same doesnt bother me as drives fine
:Typing Pete

richrx

Quote from: peterwolds;610349mines same doesnt bother me as drives fine

but will it pass an m.o.t idling like that?

i phoned some specialists but i dont think they work on a saturday :rolleyes:

richrx

just an update, the inlet manifold gasket has deteriorated, so there\'s a fair amount of air leaking into the system there. looks like your right grinder :guinness

looks like an engine out jobbie tho.


Rik

grinder

errr no idea - but i cant see it being an engine out job to be honest

shame your not closer - would have loved to have helped ;)


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

bumpstart

take off the front exhaust section
undo the turbo oil supply pipe at flared union join
undo the oil drain from turbo on the block
( the under turbo join can be a bitch so leave it,, but you can go there through window provided in the alum engine mount  )
undo turbo piping and bolts for the turbo manifold on the block,, not turbo to manifold
and pull turbo across as much as the steering shaft on our side lets it
you can now get at the hidden inlet manifold bolt,, and the entire LIM and UIM assemblies can come away
to replace the offending gaskets ( and the water cross over O ring in there )
( oops,, also undo the OMP oil supply lines down at the OMP before taking off the LIM )


i think you will want to replace that water plumping to the wax cam on the TB
( so just cut it to take off the UIM )
and also double check the operation of the ABSv
as these will be related to the lower than normal warmup idles
( also,, check that the PRC control solenoid is plumbed and working if OEM ECU )


PS
while doing all this effort ( which is still easier than yanking the engine )
check that the supply pipe on the top of the rear plate is not heavily corroded
( for the wax cam and BACv water )

if so,,
fix it now,, rather than later and do all this again
grind it flat to block and tap the steel insert with suitable tap
( i have the various sizes  that fit listed somewheres if you need )

grinder

^^^^^^^^^^^ - that sounds a lot of work ! ( saying that - isnt it always ! )


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

richrx

thanks for the help, got it all sorted, shes back together now after a good weekend of fiddeling :driving

she\'s purring like a kitten again! and after doing all that i feel like i know the engine like the back of my hand, so i\'ll keep her for a good while yet now i have confidence i can sort her problems ok :chat

just need to sort the high idle out now :Hammer:Hammer:Hammer


rik