Exedy clutch ARGH HELP :(

[nuki]

when installing a standard oem spec exedy clutch kit Is it possible to install the clutch plate the wrong way round inbetween the pressure plate and the flywheel? As when i now try to select a gear without pressing the clutch the car is acting like the clutch is not full disengaged causing a gear crunch or making the wheels drive when i put slight preassure on the gearstick towards a gear without the clutch pressed but when the wheels spin without the clutch pressed the wheels are not stoppable by using your foot...
the Exedy logo and writing is facing towards the preassure plate NOT the flywheel. Please help me im stuck big style
 
the cluch kit i have has part number "MZK2071" any ideas?
 
and the slave cylinder into the gearbox was removed without removing the fluid lines. And also quickly tryed to bleed the system aswell but no air what so ever in the system and resulted in no difference towards the pedal.

[Bobbit]

Double check the securing collar is in place, this goes on the release bearing to stop the clutch not releasing, mine did this and it would not select a gear very easily and eventually popped off completely. Or the arm could be bent, new clutch can easily bend the release arm.

[nuki]

well when i took the gearbox out i took the fork unit out of the gearbox with the 2 bolts and installed the new bearing in there.
then when the box was installed back to the engine i had no clutch at all....
then realising about how i had to take the bearing out of the preassure plate to release the gearbox
i then opened the inspection plate and got a screw driver and pushed the bearing into the preassure plate which clicked in and then my clutch pedal worked. So im not sure what to do?

[m1tch]

Where did you buy the clutch from?

[nuki]

euro car parts

[nuki]

but i have been through the full list of clutch kits they sell for the rx7 and none of them come with the same release bearing which tells me its the right kit?

[philiwily]

Sounds like you have fitted the plate the wrong way round. You would not be the first person to have done this on this forum. By all means check everything else but that is the symptoms. Hope im wrong.
Phil

[bumpstart]

the clutch disk goes in teat to the top ( think of it as a nipple )
 

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the higher part of the inner cushion race is pointing towards the rear of car
-- and the flat side of the clutch disk faces forwards

it actually sounds to me like its not disengaging,, this is usually due to lack of reach in the clutch hydraulics
( get someone to stand on the pedal while you observe the fork to move )
- if it doesn\'t move all the way,, or bleeds back,, you have hydraulic leaks internally in the clutch
-- it may be venting back to the bowl,,, it may be drawing air around a bad bowl seal
it may just need a custom length for the slave rod


it may also be that the spigot bearing ( rear of crank ) is binding onto the gearbox shaft
( and so drives the gearbox,, despite the clutch not being clamped  )


try bleeding the hydraulics,, try playing with the shaft length
-- the slave should not fit all that easily ,, should be just right,, or just take a little push to get it over its stud holes


PS

its also common on early cars for the clutch fork to fracture around its pivot
-- and this will move the fork visibly up top,, but not do much displacement inside the bell
--unfortunately,, also bringing  exactly the symptoms you describe

[nuki]

thanks for the comments.
Right.. Today i have removed the gearbox and pressure plate for the 5th time ..
I have tryed installing the clutch plate inbetween the pressure plate BOTH ways round.
The gearbox will NOT go on when the thick side of the clutch plate is facing the flywheel...(this way the clutch plate spline edges are squared with no guidance)
 
With the Thin side of the clutch plate facing the Flywheel the gearbox slips straight on with no problem.(and the splines on the clutch plate are rounded to enable the gearbox to be guided/lead on this way)
Which tells me i am almost certain that the clutch plate is on the right way because i couldnt get the gearbox on the other way and why would they make the spline ends shanfered to guide the gearbox on if it was to be installed the wrong way round? it wouldnt make sence?
 
I am really stuck because everything ive done seems to be correct... Because when the gearbox is on and i look through the inspection plate i see the clipped in bearing pulled back out on its clip just the same as this picture.. ( thanks to Jono FD3 )
 

 
All i need to know is when the gearbox is on and the clutch assembly is all in place where should the fork be sat inside the gearbox? and how far in should it be sat and what distance from the hole? because im thinking now weather i just need to do a full re-bleed of the clutch system and keep trying? as before it felt like the clutch was only been pressed in 1/4 when it was fully pressed...but trying to change gear was possible but really difficult.
Here is my clutch fork that i have just removed to eliminate the possible problem and i believe its fine.
 

 
Thankyou all for your help this is my first clutch change on any car so im abit daunted at the moment.

[nuki]

just to update... clutch is all working now . Bulk side of the clutch plate goes towards gearbox... Fork wasnt bent.... Slave cylinder was fine... everything i had done first time was correct! The only thing wrong was the clutch pedal piston to the master clutch cylinder needed adjustment to get full usage out of the slave cylinder.. After removing the gearbox numerous times checking components the solution was the clutch pedal. BIG thanks to Clive at Mazdarotaryparts for the suggestion about the clutch pedal which caused all the problem...and thanks to hayward rotary for answering numerous calls and questions causing work to holt having to answer my phone calls... thanks again to all that helped. Much appreciated many thanks.

[Hayward North]

Glad you got it sorted and answering the phone only gave me the excuse to pop the kettle on