How to : Remove a FD3S engine (not 56k friendly)

interloper393 · November 16, 2008, 09:18:28 PM

Quote from: Jim_rx7;555253My bad!

Apologies to the person who asked! Obviously caught me on a bad day.

i should think so 2 lol, your doing well tho bud, 1 page of pics to remove the engine, looks so easy :rolleyes:

carl0s · May 15, 2009, 10:45:23 PM

This is absolutely wonderful, and I am half way through, hoping to have the engine out tomorrow.

However, please could somebody explain the clutch situation to me? I have never had a clutch system apart on anything other than R/C models before (centrifugal clutches).

Why is it necessary to disconnect the clutch line in the engine bay? Is it attached to the engine or something?

Why is removing or loosening the slave cylinder (whatever one of those is or looks like!) near/on the gearbox an alternative to disconnecting the clutch line in the engine bay?

Can somebody explain the configuration.. what does what and why anything needs to be done at all? Is it just to release the pressure of the clutch against the flywheel or is it because something is attached to the engine that\'s being removed?

Thanks very much, and thanks again for the graphical writeup.

cheers,
Carl

leon · May 15, 2009, 11:39:36 PM

I\'m just thinking i didn\'t remove the clutch line on mine, the line goes to the gearbox i seem to remember, the general idea is just to depressurize the system. (which can be done with the nipple.) Once you have that you can undo all those bolts on the flywheel, and then pop the release bearing away from the clutch. (which involves two screwdrivers.)

That\'s how I got mine out anyway from following instructions i was given, there may be a simpler solution! thinking back now I believe i ended up using BOTH methods to remove it as i was not sure it was free.

One being removing the clutch from the flywheel, the other being disengaging the clutch from the gearbox.

Jim_rx7 · May 16, 2009, 01:48:05 AM

you don\'t need to undo the clutch line to undo the flywheel bolts etc.

The only reason you do is because once you pull the engine out, the gearbox will drop slightly which would result in the clutch line snapping if it was still connected.

carl0s · May 16, 2009, 08:23:37 AM

Quote from: Jim_rx7;608154you don\'t need to undo the clutch line to undo the flywheel bolts etc.

The only reason you do is because once you pull the engine out, the gearbox will drop slightly which would result in the clutch line snapping if it was still connected.

Ah, I see. Thanks for the clarification. I feel much more confident when I know why I\'m doing something.

carl0s · May 16, 2009, 10:58:37 AM

What are these two, and what do I do with them? I can see that the first will be removable once I go and get myself a bigger spanner, but what about the second?

And what about this one? It goes into the firewall and has some insulating foam around it. It looks like an A/C line as the gas filler points are on there.

There is no gas in my A/C system BTW so I\'m not bothered if the easiest procedure would discharge the system.. easiest is best please!

thanks

carl0s · May 16, 2009, 11:18:18 AM

I am going to try to remove the mounting piece which has those two pulleys on it (A/C and .. PS pump ?) Hopefully that\'s the right thing to do, and will just leave the first hose in question.. is that a coolant hose?

carl0s · May 16, 2009, 11:31:58 AM

Sod that, changed my mind. Off to get some big mole grips to disconnect hoses.

Jim_rx7 · May 16, 2009, 12:01:51 PM

the things in the 1st pix are oil cooler lines.

First of all remove that cross bar. Then follow the two lines. They are connected together with a little spring clip. Pop these out and pull the hoses apart. You don\'t need a spanner.

As for the air con line, simply disconnect from the pump.

carl0s · May 16, 2009, 01:41:45 PM

Quote from: Jim_rx7;608200the things in the 1st pix are oil cooler lines.

First of all remove that cross bar. Then follow the two lines. They are connected together with a little spring clip. Pop these out and pull the hoses apart. You don\'t need a spanner.

As for the air con line, simply disconnect from the pump.

Top man. All that stuff\'s done now. Bolts are off the flywheel, just need to remove the bolts holding the gearbox to the engine, sort downpipe and pull harness through firewall, then it\'s lift lift away!! Groovy

It became much easier to turn the flywheel once I\'d taken the car out of gear

How come I had to remove the starter motor BTW?

Jim_rx7 · May 16, 2009, 02:19:27 PM

I would assume so it doesn\'t get damaged when removing. Would also be a right pain putting the engine back in with the starter there.

Good luck mate, it\'s fairly simple. Why you removing if anyway?

carl0s · May 16, 2009, 03:17:26 PM

Quote from: Jim_rx7;608226I would assume so it doesn\'t get damaged when removing. Would also be a right pain putting the engine back in with the starter there.

Good luck mate, it\'s fairly simple. Why you removing if anyway?

\'cause engine is buggered. I think I understand the starter motor thing now.. is the flywheel the thing with the teeth in it that the starter engages to?

I\'m just putting the engine crane together. Little bit disappointed because if I\'d have got on the phone to tool hire companies before 12:30 today, I could have saved myself buying a Â£170 engine crane

leon · May 16, 2009, 03:18:14 PM

The gearbox snapping the line is not much of an issue if you have a jack underthere to take its weight

An Alternative one for the air con is there are 4 bolts holding the pump to the engine, i took 3 of those out with ease the 4th was a real bugger but i got it, then lifted the engine out leaving the aircon and ps pump still in the bay :yes

carl0s · May 16, 2009, 04:28:45 PM

I\'m really struggling on the heatshield above the steering knuckle for removing the DP... Having a fag break and will try SmbFD3S\'s technique:

Quote from: SmbFD3S;551937
Exhaust manifold/downpipe heat shielding…. Right there is an "easier" way to do this and the manifold. When under the car and facing forward you will see the steering stem. Soak the visible splines in WD40 or penetrating oil first as I did. You will see a stem attached at either end, at the top loosten the bolt and at the bottom remove the bolt. You can then slide (with a hammer on the tab, you’ll see it) the stem up, which will detach from the bottom bracket. This gives a 100% greater access to the manifold and downpipe.

leon · May 16, 2009, 04:38:12 PM

CarL0s i got away with leaving the downpipe still attached to the engine! pulled it all out in situte, took a lot of wiggle and swearing but i did it :Hammer I think half of it was down to me having a sloped drive so extra room under the car to tilt the engine when i lifted.