How many amps/channels

Started by steve77964, October 13, 2008, 09:23:59 PM

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steve77964

are necessary to run a pair of components a pair of coaxials and one or maybe 2 subs?

batman

one four channel amp as long as it has a good hi low pass filter mids and tweets off the front channel and bridge the rear channel for the subs
REAL MEN PLAY WITH TWINS     :Laugh

L18M

i think 2.
a 4 ch amp (class A or A/B or maybe class B)
components run off  front ch then coaxal on rear ch. (u want components on front as thats most likely cloestest to the ear n less obstacles for the sound to be muffled)
then get a class D amp for sub(s)

personally if u want deep bass then sth like a sq kicker 15\'\' is plently for a rx!
tried twin 12\'s but they take more space up.
for slow bass tones go for larger sub. (single 15) for punchy bass go for 10\'S x2.

general rule, amp should cost similar as ur speakers n get good wires!
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

shaunwil

Start with a small Class D amp for the subs and run the rest off the head unit. Usually components are designed to run on a single channel for each set.

As for the sub it depends on what music you listen to. If you like plenty of bass then go with a 15in, but it will have a longer note and may distort on tighter bass tones. The 12in are good if you just want base fill. Used to have a 3 x 12in system in a AXGT so you can fit stuff in if creative. Did 139.5db on a 600w RMS amp when tested by a professional too ! Was more built for SQ too and all 3 where sealed to keep the size of the box small !

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

steve77964

well at the mo have bought:
 pioneer touch screen dvd/sat nav head unit
jbl 125w rms components for front
jl audio 70w rms coaxials for rear
 
was thinking to take out the rear seats and make a build there so room should be ok for 2 x 12" subs, so basically it is the amps i would need to run this system...i dont really want to run anything off the head unit to be honest...help?

batman

personally bass just interrupts the exhaust making the whole thing sound crap id just have the four speakers and a head unit in a rex putting a 15" in the boot pointless lol
REAL MEN PLAY WITH TWINS     :Laugh

shaunwil

Very good point. I still have about 2k of kit in the cupboard that just won\'t go in the FD. The weight of the stuff is crazy. Bunging all that weight over the back is scarey.

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

S3TH

15" subs being slow with faster, tighter music is a myth now... perhaps older subs hold some truth to it... but it\'ll handle everything just fine. Sound deadening is the number 1 most important thing in any install or attempt to better the sound system, otherwise as mentioned by someone else the exhuast & subs don\'t get on too well & any other efforts will have a nice undertone of rattles & road noise.

As for amping, I agree- leave the headunits internal amp out of it. Rated 4 x 60 is more like 4 x 18. Most aftermarket components won\'t play too great with that kind of power...
IMO ditch the rear coaxials- can you give me a good reason for needing them? Rear speakers ruin the sound stage & coaxials aren\'t going to tolerate much...

A 4 channel amp will do, 2 x for the front and the rear channels bridged using the sub preout. If you\'ve got the pioneer avic you\'ll have all the xover & eq settings on screen :) :3gears-rh.