Rear Oil Seal

Started by leeroy_25, September 07, 2008, 09:50:38 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

leeroy_25

I have oil leaking from my rear enigne oil seal causing clutch slip. Can someone tell me the part number of the replacement seal(s) I require and may be the best place to get them from? I am slightly under the impression there are two seals to be replaced?

Thank you
Lee

philiwily

1668-10-556A Is Mazda part number. I would think any vendor would sell it. You could get it from any Mazda dealer but it would probably take about 3 weeks lol.

Phil

leeroy_25

Thanks Phil,

Is it just hte one part that needs changing then? no secondary oil seal of any type?

Lee

davehg

there is a secondary seal that sits around the rear gear.
There are performance cars and then there is the RX-7...........

12.3 second 1/4 mile, terminal speed of 122mph (1st ever drag run on a TO4R)

engine built by....... umm me! now powered by a T51 Kai......

leeroy_25

Around the rear gear? is there a plate you need to remove to get at this?? Have you got a part number or pic of this?? I have seen two types of seals but the description is not specific to say what it\'s for! Has it got a metal collar on it?

Thank you
Lee

C J R

Hi,
I suffered the same problem. There is a seal and an O ring.
 
Main problem is the 54mm socket required to remove the flywheel.
 
Also I think the O ring is behind the housing that supports part of the inner engine, and if removed without support will require an engine rebuild.
 
I took mine to a Rotary specialist who did the job.
 
Chris

davehg

you need to remove the rear gear. this will not damage the internals or require a re build.
There are performance cars and then there is the RX-7...........

12.3 second 1/4 mile, terminal speed of 122mph (1st ever drag run on a TO4R)

engine built by....... umm me! now powered by a T51 Kai......

leeroy_25

Blimey!! That had me going for a sec!
So Dave, I remove the flywheel.. then I will see what exactly? What is the rear gear you are refering to? Is there a cover plate on the back of the engine with a drive gear for something inside it? Is it all pretty straight forward an self explanitary when you are there?

Thank you
Lee

davehg

remove gear box, then remove the clutch from the fly wheel. you will then need to lock the flywheel in position so that you can undoo the 54mm flywheel bolt to remove it. then undo the 6 or so 12mm bolts and pull the rear gear directly off the back of the engine. you will need torque wrench etc to re torque the bolts you removed and a clutch alignment tool to re allign the clutch.
There are performance cars and then there is the RX-7...........

12.3 second 1/4 mile, terminal speed of 122mph (1st ever drag run on a TO4R)

engine built by....... umm me! now powered by a T51 Kai......

leeroy_25

Thank you for that Dave,

Do you know the torque settings or can you point me in the direction of a manual where I could find them?
What\'s the best way to lock the flywheel? Has it got a locking point in it?

Thank you
Lee

pigeon

here you go fella. i have just stripped my spare engine and i took step by step photos. might help so you know what you are looking for.
 
having removed gear box and clutch this is what you will see. in the center of the flywheel is the 54mm nut you need to remove.

 
once the flywheel is off this is what you see next. remove the key from the shaft.
 

 
you can then remove the rear main seal.
 

 
to then remove the rear gear you need to remove these bolts.
 

 
hope that helps.:)

leeroy_25

Quality help mate.. than you very much!
Oooh.. Where can I get torque setting for putting it back toegther and is there a sequence for doing the rear gear ones back up?

Lee

leeroy_25

Dave or pigeon,

Do you happen to have a 54mm socket you could lend me or sell em to remove my flywheel? How did you get the bolt undone a torqued back up? did you just use an air gun. Mine is rated to about 350-400ftlbs torque. did you need a proper impact socket or manage to get away with a 12point standard one?

Thank you
Lee

grinder

i would suggest not using a 12 point socket - if you round the nut then you will find yourself in a whole new world of trouble

i always use 6 sided ones now - better safe than sorry

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51092&highlight=54mm - have a look here for a cheap one ( not sure if its 12 or 6 sided though )


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

DRAGON

12 sided wil be fine, its a big nut.
Change the oring on the stationary gear, could do gear bearing aswell if necessary.