Back to a virtual car again!!!

[Aceman]

Total bummer - can\'t believe this is happened - seems to be something in the air near us - as I know of one other rotary engine also with problems (and not mine).

I suspect I know who you\'re refering too...  


Yeah, yours goes, and then mine and Sadgoth go pop on the same day..

As stated elsewhere, sorry to hear this dude! Especially as you\'ve only just got it back!!

[TiddlesRX7]

Oh I\'ve got the room and normal tools and an engine stand that should fit (if not I\'ll make it fit). Anything special i\'d have to beg steal or borrow!

[gsb876]

man thats bad luck all over again, sorry for you

[BenLewisMav]

So what happened Mark? Why did it go?
Was it a mapping error? or component failure?
My condolences, really really gutted for you..
Hopefully you won\'t have to wait long as I\'m sure Tim is curious to find out why.

[BlitzBoy]

Oh I\'ve got the room and normal tools and an engine stand that should fit (if not I\'ll make it fit). Anything special i\'d have to beg steal or borrow!

you need a big 54mm socket to crack the flywheel nut off, air gun will be good or a long long bar for torque

[B.Martin]

Bad luck mate and i know how it feels. I hope mine hasn\'t gone or i\'m going to be rolling around front wheel drive for a bit longer than i hoped... This must be the season of broken rotarys!!!

[TiddlesRX7]

Socket wont be a problem i\'ll get one from or through work. Is there anything else?

[BenLewisMav]

you need a big 54mm socket to crack the flywheel nut off, air gun will be good or a long long bar for torque

Yeah you can use a transit hub nut remover, apparently its very common compared to the other sockets around that side. Also the thing that I found more difficult than the flywheel nut was the eccentric shaft bolt.. The bast. was on tighter than anything I\'d tried before with loads of threadlock on.
If the engine is in the car then you can carefully rest the breaker bar on the side of the engine bay/wing and crank the engine over to break the threadlock (Cheers for that one Antnic)
If its out of the car you have to find a way of stopping the flywheel/crank from turning whilst putting the mother of all torque on the bolt... well, we tried everything, heat, big Impact Wrench, breaker bar with me standing on the engine, pry bar between the flywheel bolts... The only way we got it done in the end, was to get a 1.5m long steel box section and drill holes in it at one end, then bolt it to the flywheel, then get a 2m long scaffolding pole over a large breaker bar and let my large mate yank it down. Should do it easy now, but we did try a lot before hand..

The rest of it is just standard bolts and nuts so its very relaxing in comparison

[BenLewisMav]

Also get one of these;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DVD-DIY-REBUILD-YOUR-ROTARY-ENGINE-Rx7-13B-Turbo-Non_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em63Q2el1177QQhashZitem260280527640QQitemZ260280527640

[sadgoth]

cheers guys! Well to answer a few questions:
1) no never did get it fully mapped, just mapped on low boost to a safe and very rich map
2) not sure on the warranty front - I guess it depends on what caused it tbh - kind of hoping we\'ll come to some sort of "arrangement"
3) no idea what caused it yet, I was changing up (I was being careful on the amount of boost I was using as the Blitz SBC had just been fitted but wasn\'t set up so I wasn\'t being heavy on the loud pedal) as I came off the clutch I heard the dreaded tractor sound and felt a distinct loss of power. Limped it home (about 1/2 mile) too the plugs out in each rotor seperatly to discover the front rotor now makes a puff...puff...sss rather that the more preferable puff...pufff....puff of the rear rotor.

BTW new housings are now £600 each from Mazda - they have re-structured their parts pricing scheme!

[Brett]

cheers guys! Well to answer a few questions:
1) no never did get it fully mapped, just mapped on low boost to a safe and very rich map
2) not sure on the warranty front - I guess it depends on what caused it tbh - kind of hoping we\'ll come to some sort of "arrangement"
3) no idea what caused it yet, I was changing up (I was being careful on the amount of boost I was using as the Blitz SBC had just been fitted but wasn\'t set up so I wasn\'t being heavy on the loud pedal) as I came off the clutch I heard the dreaded tractor sound and felt a distinct loss of power. Limped it home (about 1/2 mile) too the plugs out in each rotor seperatly to discover the front rotor now makes a puff...puff...sss rather that the more preferable puff...pufff....puff of the rear rotor.

BTW new housings are now £600 each from Mazda - they have re-structured their parts pricing scheme!

Yeah Mazda have helpfully put their parts catalog up by over 100%

[BlitzBoy]

get the housings from rhdjapan.com they are still at jap prices £314 plus duty shipped via air, you may find the housings are fine and you have only warped the seals, could be lack of oil lube rather then det as you were only cruising

[sadgoth]

I hope so, but I have been running approx 100:1 premix so oil lube shouldn\'t be a problem. It does sound as though one seal isn\'t sealing anymore! I hope I have just either cracked or warped the seal and it is still in place, if so the I should get away without any housing or plate damage.

Ho-hum...

[BlitzBoy]

fingers crossed for you dude

[BlitzBoy]

also along with rhdjapan prices for housings, you should try one of Garys Gasket sets very good price £135 squids plus you can actually reuse the most of the seals (viton) if you have to split the block again http://www.rotaryart.uk.com/acatalog/RotaryArt_engine_kits_for_Mazda_RX7.html
cheaper and better then the Mazdas stuff now