RX7 FD Speaker setup & soundproofing??

Started by jonny116, August 12, 2008, 11:43:51 AM

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jonny116

Anyone got a sound proofing solution to stop the rattles and shakes you can hear outside with speakers / sub is on?

Replacing the speakers next week, what you think? Components in the front, Coaxial\'s in the rear and 12" Sub built into the boot floor and covered by speaker mesh.

Was looking on a budget just for sound quality so didn’t know whether to just get a 300RMS Amp to run the sub iv got and run all 4 speakers off the 50W x 4 Kenwood headunit?...
...or get a bigger amp and run both the front components and the sub of the one 2channel amp and leave just the rears to the headunit? See the sub I have is a 300RMS sub so thought its not good to under power it.

Also want to sort as many rattles and shakes as I can at the same time, what solutions are there apart from the expensive sound deadening foil for in the doors/boot/number plate (which I\'m really not convinced with anyway). Loft insulation??? Ha

Any pics of peoples builds?

L18M

cant help with the rattles as theres so many clips that vibrate easily but whats ur budget for ur setup?
infinity kappa components for 100ukp up front are very gd but at over 100 watts they are best with an amp.
if you want to change your sub then i\'d recommend the square kicker L7 subs.
for a good sound i think about 600ukp in total would be the cheapest i\'d spend.
google "car audio security" they do good stuff at very competitive price.
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

jonny116

Well was looking at spending
 
£100 upfront, £100 on the rears and not sure about the Amp.  
 
The 12" sub i have was about £150 last year and £130 headunit already have, plus the build is getting done by my mate for free who\'s done loads of them.  
 
Just going sink the sub where the spare wheel is and raise the boot floor to cover it, then cover all the MDF in black leather and remove the parcel shelf so is only the sub cone showing.  Quiet simple in my head!!!
 
Just dont know how to go about setting up the amp/speakers?  
 
has no one put anything in the door liners to stop rattles?  Does the usual loud rattle come from the reg plate on these when music is playing??

KN_ELLIS

My advice would be to spend a greater proportion of your money on the speakers up front as they are the ones that matter in terms of hearing your mids and tops..... With a big 12" sub in the back, the sound from the rear speakers will be drowned out to an extent.
 
I recently installed diamond audio hex S500a components in the front, alpine coxials in the rear and 10" diamond audio sub. I run the components off a 500W amp, the coxials off the head unit and the sub off a separate 700W amp.... sounds pretty good, but will be even better once the new speakers have run in:)

L18M

if u spending £100 on front and £100 on rears then u best amping both as speakers at that price will be over 100 watts (ur headunit is prob 45 watts) which wont make the most out of ur speakers.

if u want quality on a budget then spend at least £200 on a 4 channel amp, decent components front. then forget about rear.
one channel per front speaker then bridge the 3 and 4 channel for the sub.

as for rattels.. they can come from anywhere.. rattling latches, bumper clips, loose door cards etc..
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

D2BBA

If im right you will need a "free air" sub in the back if you are simply mounting it in a false floor with no box guv.  Building a box for the \'7 boot does take up alot of space. depending on your choice of sub however :)

I decided to sod it in the end and just built a fibre glass enclosure for my sub.  It fills the whole boot and is useless for carrying stuff about and most dont like it for weight, but it looks the part ;)

Chris
RX7 FD3S RE Amemiya AC037 - Gone but not forgotton!  

Porsche 911 (964) C4 - Aircooled weekend fun!

Golf GT 170 (MKV) - Das verks mobile!

jonny116

Well i was planning on removing the spare wheel and building a box in there and raising the floor, the sub only needs 1.25 csq.  Going to have a proper look at the weekend.  
 
What are the rear speaker sizes, are they 5 x 7\'s?  Are they easy enough to fit yourself or should i get them all sound proofed?  
 
Car audio security have some ok kenwood ones for £30 which i\'m considering, then spend the money upfront where it counts.

D2BBA

To be honest mate rear fill in a two seater car the size of the \'7 is a bit pointless.  I just removed the rears and concentrated on a sub and decent components up front.  

I then added some rears in my boot build, but this was purely for shows when I have the boot open and wanted to hear the full range from outside the car!

Chris
RX7 FD3S RE Amemiya AC037 - Gone but not forgotton!  

Porsche 911 (964) C4 - Aircooled weekend fun!

Golf GT 170 (MKV) - Das verks mobile!

Nik da Greek

I spent ages trying to find the source of a really annoying high-pitched rattle. Turned out it was the rear seat belt buckle that always managed to retract itself to rest against the speaker grille! Doh!

TBH, if your cars anything like mine it\'ll be a cacophony of groans, rattles and squeaks anyway. I just gave up trying to find and cure them in the end and just got rid of some of the most irritating ones. It was either that or double the weight of the car with Dynamat!

gregmacd

My only real rattle is the rear hatch catch, I found some instructions on how to tighten that up I\'ll see if I can dig them out.

elford_tim

Forget the rears, all they\'ll do is making the setup harder to sort out so you don\'t get any funny imaging effects.
1989 Turbo II convertible in Essex Stilletto white

L18M

if the rattles are that bad then turn up the volume. if that dont work then drop the sub so no low freq to make things rattle lol
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

jonny116

ha yeah but i want the sub for low end freqs. sound quality etc.  Turning it up sounds a good remedy!  
 
Ahh a guide to tightening rattles would be spot on if you dont mind digging that out!

L18M

the only real way of getting rid of rattles is to turn up ur tunes n using your good ear to listen out for rattles and holding parts down to see where they come from.
then either tighten screws, remove plastics or wedge things inbetween to stop the rattling bits.

pain in the butt job but will be good once its all done.
so do you know wot setup u gonna go for..?
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

martinFD

Quote from: grant;524041My only real rattle is the rear hatch catch, I found some instructions on how to tighten that up I\'ll see if I can dig them out.

Wouldn\'t mind a link to that myself, thanks.