£999 challenge

[pdtaylor18]

Can you send some pics of the Monos ? I have a few sets on ebay at the moment and especially the Racing Sparco ones would fit your requirements exactly, nice wide stance and fill the rims nicely buty i need to know soon before someone bids.

[TeamTotalWankel]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=270201287041&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=017
 
There you go pdtaylor. It\'s the original ebay advert with the MOMOs shown on it. What\'s the ebay number of your wheels mate?

[TeamTotalWankel]

It\'s OK, I think I \'ve found them. Look good to me.

[Prof]

did someone call
 
i love it when people work to budgets - just like me
 
the rot in the car will cause you the most probs - its a pain to fix ( click the link in my sig for the website - and have a look under the rust section )
 
if you run at .9 bar of boost everything should be fine - and why fit a boost controller if you are on a budget - it seems pointless to me
 
strip everything out of the car - why make it faster when you can make it lighter - get all the back seats out
 
if you can - take off the AC and air pump ( should free up a few HP - say 4-5bhp )
 
the spec of the car - you should be seeing about 230-250 at the fly - so thats pretty good
 
we need pics and all updates you make to the car though
 
Stu

As per what Stu said, but take the air pump off AFTER the MOT, as it will help you get through it

[TeamTotalWankel]

Thanks Prof, like your thinking.

[Prof]

pdtaylor,
Thanks for the offer of the brakes, top man. The backs seem OK but haven\'t had a real good look at the fronts as yet. The ceramic pads sound just the job though, especially if they\'re cheap!! The car\'s an S5 (\'90) but unfortunately it\'s already been fitted with some 7.5x16 MOMO alloys (225/50 rear 205/45 front) with no spigot rings!! I\'m trying to source some at the moment. I\'d be quite happy to swap these for a std set with good tyres if anyone has any though.
grinder,
Why just make a car lighter, when you can make it faster and lighter?!? ;o) Back seat are out for welding, and staying out.
The boost controller I\'m fitting is the manual (MBC) \'cheap as chips\' variety, not the mega money electronic variety. Is 0.9 bar the max I should aim for then? Can\'t I go for the full 1 bar for this short blast? The chip I\'ve fitted is supposed to give \'safe\' mapping up to 1 bar.
Did they all have AC? I\'ve not even looked, been too busy welding.
 
Thanks again guys,
Nick

Problem is the intercooler, then the turbo.  The stock turbo is past it\'s efficiency limit after 12-13 psi, so although you can get a bit more out of it, not much.  The stock intercooler is woefully inadequate past 12psi of boost.  I would say to avoid engine carnage keep the boost at 0.9 bar tops, and consider a simple sprayer for the intercooler - every little bit helps.  A bit of hozelock irrigation pipe and sprayers fitted up to a salvaged washer bottle should do the trick.  With a button in the car for spraying

[TeamTotalWankel]

Irrigating the RX7, now there\'s a thing!
If you\'re serious - would you just point them so they spray across the top on the intercooler front to rear? The headlamp washer bottle should do the trick shouldn\'t it?

[Prof]

that would do it as well.
 
I got the idea of doing that from Brett - who\'s played around with it too, but the Scooby and Evo guys have this sort of setup.  Ideally it would be on a boost switch so that it came on when you gave it some welly, but a manually operated one would be just as good for a little bit extra.
 
I plan to put mine in the rubber grommet that sits on top of the intercooler, and spray onto the intercooler from the 4 corners.  The amount your spraying will not be much, and evaporative cooling will see most of it go off as vapour, but the cooling effect will be quite a boost to the intercooler.

[Brett]

Only thing I will say about the water sprays is this - they don\'t make you popular at drag strips.... (Or you could open the bonnet just before the run and freeze the intercooler with a CO2 fire extinguisher...)

[Grizzly]

If your removing the Air pump and bits like that see if you can acquire a biggish electric fan and do away with the Manual one on the front of the motor (its more to stop the belts slipping to the water pump once you remove the Air pump than any serious power gain but it all helps )

Another tip is not to lose the stock air box (if its still there) just drill some big holes in the top, it will flow just as well if not better than any induction kit and it will come with Mazda\'s own cold feed as well.

Also check if its got a steel of Ally bonney on, if its steel try and run it as much as poss with the Bonnet off they weigh allot.

[TeamTotalWankel]

Thanks guys, all tips noted and gratefully received :chat
 
Does a car need a bonnet to be road legal? I don\'t think so, but it may not be in the spirit of the event to lose major parts of bodywork! I\'ll have to make a few tentative enquiries.
 
I\'ve already replaced the std airbox with an ebay special induction kit, it was cheaper than replacing the manky std filter! I\'m going to try to retain the std cold air feed and get some more piping in there also. Which will all be fairly academic if I can run without the bonnet :evillaugh

[dthebuk]

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47375

theres a picture on there of my cold air feed, its pretty effective

[TeamTotalWankel]

pdtaylor,
Did you have a look at the Momos mate?  Any good for you? If so did you have a swap deal in mind to help the cause?
Cheers,
Nick

[grinder]

whats wrong with the wheels you have  ? - just missing spiggot rings and naff tyres

i have some spare wheels but 1 needs a full set of rubber and the other are only 15\'s

did you buy some lowering springs ( i have a full set of Pi lowering springs in the garage ) ?

oh yeah - dibbs on the exhaust !! LOL

[Brett]

Decent panel filter is all you need