Newbie- to buy or not to buy..?

Started by MarkoFu, February 20, 2008, 11:43:52 PM

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MarkoFu

Hi guys,
Firstly i should point out that i\'m completely new to this forum (as i\'m sure you will pick up as you read on..). I\'m looking to buy an Rx7, but other than general mileage and what to look for ragarding results from a compression test (all information i\'ve picked up from this forum- so thanks for that already) i\'m pretty lost :rolleyes:
 
I\'ve looked at a couple of Rx7\'s already, the most recent of which being this one. Don\'t know if any of you know anything about this car? It seems to drive quite well and the turbo\'s pull fine. It hasn\'t had any engine work done and there\'s not a great deal of paperwork to go with the car. I asked for the results from a recent compression test and the guy told me it had just over 7 on the front, and just under 7 on the rear; although there was no paperwork to prove this :( .
First off, just wanted to know if this car was worth persuing. And secondly, is it possible to do a compression test on the car without taking it to a garage? I know somtimes (on my old car anyway) you can just plug it in and turn the engine over for a reading. If so, maybe an option before going any further with it? :3Confused
 
Another question i wanted to ask is what the oil pressure should be reading?
 
Any advice/opinions will be welcomed. Cheers guys :D
 
Mark :WaveBye

CraigWWW

Hi mate

First rule...dont jump in and buy the first that \'looks\' good. Its tempting but you will regret it. Check on here for some mint, well cared for and rebuilt examples.

That FD does seem ok but his description leaves a little to be desired. This always sets alarm bells ringing as you ideally want to buy from someone who has a good understanding of RX7s and how to look after them!

"lush exhust, scatter valve, mushroom induction kit" - hmm?

Secondly...never believe any quoted compression figs that cannot be proved.

At 52000miles and no mention of a rebuild...BEWARE!

Most Jap cars wont have much or any paperwork, these never seem to make it across so I wouldnt worry about it.

Get it compression tested at a reputable specialist (WGT, REWORX, DRAGON etc) and take it from there, otherwise you could be forking out a tonne of cash for an expensive driveway decoration.

Just my 2p worth!

MarkoFu

Hi Craig,
Thanks for the reply mate. I have been checking on here also. That one just caught my eye so i thought i look into it a bit more. £6k is about my limit so thought it could be a bit of a bargain? Pretty much ticked my boxes. Obviously i\'m aware of the pitfalls of something that looks to good to be true  :rolleyes:  
 
Assuming i get a compression test done and it comes back with similar results as i listed above, what else would i need to look out for/be wary of?

peterwolds

as Craig says look on here for a sorted car you can track its history through the sellers postings & see if has had any issues/rebuild/compression test.£6000 will get you a decent RX7.
:Typing Pete

CraigWWW

You should also check if the car has had any overheating issues as this can lead to blown water seals and a rebuild! Most garages will be able to carry out a hydro-carbon test (i think thats what its called) to check for gases leaking into the cooling system.

The car should only have a bit of smoke from the exhaust on startup and should clear after about 30sec-1min, again any longer and it could mean the water seals are shot. If its very sweet smelling its not a good sign.

I would also check for everything is straight underneath the car, paint job and bodykit can sometimes be hiding accident damage. Dont be afraid to really spend some time going over the car.

However, if the compression test comes back ok and you get  a specialist to cast his trained eye over it then go for it! I guarantee you wont be disapointed if you get a good one!

Good luck mate!

Laeeq

I have just finished my cherry red amemiya kitted with brand new Jaydee built engine and still running in...done about 50miles, although its going to be up for sale @ 6.5k so give me a shout or e-mail if interested and i can forward you some details.  vadersports@hotmail.com

Cheers

Laeeq
Laeeq

T11MNM


Laeeq

Quote from: T11MNMLaeeq You Have Mail

you have mail too:WaveBye

oh and sorry about the thread hijack...
Laeeq

chrisJDM

to be honest with you with the current car market and prices although that one looks nice, has a bodykit and respray etc i would say it is slightly overpriced due to the fact the engine is basically standard, no rebuild at 52,000 and no documentation.  Ive seen standard rx7\'s go for that sort of price with a recent rebuild.  I think you need to really look at engine before looks as this is the most important thing, if the engine dies you are looking at least 2.5k at the cheapest to rebuild.

i.e.

This one may not look as good and has a silly spoiler which can be removed, it has a engine rebuild (if they can prove it), and its cheaper, with the extra money you save you could spend a bit on a bodykit etc

http://pistonheads.com/sales/282561.htm

gsb876

Nowadays for a rebuilt FD £6000 is not too low as you can deffo get a FD with a rebuilt engine for that amount :Thumbs-up

Just take your time and get the right one for you, always easy to jump in when theres money just sitting there but be patient chap :Party
"Every generation has the chance to change the world"

Mills & Bains guest author :Giggle

chrisJDM

or there is this one, may not look the best but has a engine rebuild and is 2k cheaper then the blue one so leaves you 2k to spend on it, that would get you some nice wheels and bodykit.

http://pistonheads.com/sales/383306.htm

sadgoth

I\'ve seen that blue one around in Reading quite a lot, don\'t know the car, but seems to spend a lot of time cruising! Compression of 7 and 7 means nothing, you should have 3 readings on each rotor, one for each rotor face something like:
7.1, 7.2, 7.1
7.2, 7.2, 7.3

now they would be good readings!!!

I agree with everything that\'s been said above, buy on condition of the engine not on looks. There is no point in buying a nice looking car with a decent kit if it will spend the next two years sitting on your drive while you save up for the rebuild!
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

MarkoFu

No, i agree with what you\'re saying. Thanks for your comments too, by the way :Thumbs-up
The guy knew very little about cars. Don\'t get me wrong, lovely bloke, but when i asked what boost it was running he didn\'t know what i was talking about. Also, this \'scatter valve\' he mentioned. He said it was like a dump valve but just chattered instead of hissing. I thought you got that chattering sound through the wastegate, no? Or is it actually me who knows very little about cars?!!  :eek
 
Also, can anyone tell me what a good oil pressure reading would be? I may ask the guy to take the car to a garage and get it looked at- compression test etc. Anyone know of a good garage around Reading?
 
Have also started to make contact with a couple of the guys from the other suggestions you\'ve posted up too. So thanks for that also.
 
Cheers.
 
 
Mark

sadgoth

Quote from: MarkoFuAlso, can anyone tell me what a good oil pressure reading would be? I may ask the guy to take the car to a garage and get it looked at- compression test etc. Anyone know of a good garage around Reading?
 
Cheers.
 
Mark

Try Rotechnics in Grazely.
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

chrisJDM

i suppose hayward rotary wouldnt be that far really

//www.mazdarotary.co.uk