Spray guns

[monkey-fd3s]

CFM and PSI are quite different

CFM is the key value you need to look at, spray guns - especially HVLP guns need LOTS of free air - or CFM (cubic feet per minute)

My Devilbiss HVLP gun uses 450 l/min (15.9 cfm) @ 29psi - so you need a compressor capable of providing that pressure.  Ideally you also need a bodyshop grade regulator & oil/water trap.

You can still do a good job without the fancy bits and pieces with some crafty methods of running the hoses.

I had a 3.5hp clarke compressor which supposedly provided 13.5CFM with a 150l tank - and it sucked

Problem is without 3 phase electics you won\'t get much above 3.5hp

I think the key is to take your time and plan it well.

[John_Hudson]

hum so 7.1 is pretty gash then : (

im at a loss now =/ i dont know what to do

[ianelvar]

Spray cans?

[John_Hudson]

joker! :p       :spank

[Grizzly]

Hang on a mo, you have to buy a gun that is ballanced to your Compressor.

If you have a Good Comp with a Big tank then the best guns are Devilbiss GTI\'s (i use a 1.3/110 set up for top coat) or Sata 2000\'s or 3000\'s are good too (i\'ve just upgraded to a 3000 with a 1.3 set up) but that said there is a little more to selecting the correct gun. That said i have used GTI\'s at home but tbh the post ITW take over guns are C**p and your best buying a second hand Pre Take over gun with a 1.4 set up (there easy to spot as they don\'t have ITW on the body)

I used to do a odd jobs at home and found the top end guns to be a bit draining on the Comp (you would get half way round and the air presure would drop) so after a bit of going old school i got a Anest Iwata w-300 which was a better all round gun for home use (there allot cheaper too) i found mine on e-bay and i think i paid about £50 for it with a 1.3 set up.

The thing i would be looking at before i made the gun choice is the size of Comp (tank size is very important, i\'ve linked two or three tanks up before now to keep the pressure constant) the CFM is important a good test is get a DA sander (orbital) and leave it running on the floor for ten minutes if the tank pressure drops below 2 bar you\'ll struggle painting anything large.

Being a Painter myself i would say try not to get confused with Pro equipment, my Compressor at work will run an Air tool on every air line (20 of them) and two air fed masks and will still have enough go to paint a car without any pressure drop, thats why allot of the best guns are made without compromise not with DIY in mind so you may be better to steer away.

What are you thinking of using? 2k base and clear,3 stage pearl,solid etc? and what make? its also important.

[John_Hudson]

Thanks grizzly so an Anest Iwata W-300 1.3 setup is what you recomend for a daiseyed 75ltr total compressor size with a 7.1 cfm?
Hopefully this will be enough!

I know this is a mission and i now fully appreciate what crap you guys at body shops have to go through ( with the exception of the f***er who shagged my motor, he can just fall off a cliff)

again, thanks to all for your imput

[ianelvar]

Lol. Sorry chap, couldn\'t resist! I\'ve got a huge clarke compressor that\'s rated at 9 cfm, and that\'s just enough to drive some of the lower end guns at their average air consumption. Haven\'t ever tried though.
Clarke do one with two motors and pumps into one receiver, and that kicks out 28CFM on single phase, but it\'s the best part of a grand! I take it 7CFM is the combined output for both your compressors?

[John_Hudson]

thats just one of the compressors

[Grizzly]

Just to add, if you haven\'t done this before its important to not panic, most of the big balls ups are caused when some thing small goes wrong and the painter over applys to cover it up (which makes it ALLOT worse)

The key is to take your time getting the prep as good as poss, i\'d skip the wet on wet and base over the High build to keep the open time down to a min.

Make sure its dry between coats, Painters have Unbelievable patience, rushing is another cause of problems.

The biggest Tip is get the Tech sheets for the paint!! select the best air dry Hardner (often you will be given Force dry and that will take an age in 20-30 deg\'s) and i suppose the biggest tip that you will hear every where is paint a test panel, ok you may waist a big of paint but its better to mess up a test panel than the car if you have an Issue with some thing.

[Grizzly]

Thanks grizzly so an Anest Iwata W-300 1.3 setup is what you recomend for a daiseyed 75ltr total compressor size with a 7.1 cfm?
Hopefully this will be enough!

I know this is a mission and i now fully appreciate what crap you guys at body shops have to go through ( with the exception of the f***er who shagged my motor, he can just fall off a cliff)

again, thanks to all for your input

In the comp world bigger the better, make sure you have a good water trap too.

As i say if you think your comp may be a little low on juice beg borrow or steal another one and run them in tandom even if you can lay your hands on another tank it will all help the cause.

[John_Hudson]

i guess its going to be a case of spraying in parts fun fun fun!

[Grizzly]

//www.bodyshopwarehouse.co.uk i\'ve used this place before for Consumables, be sure to get you hands on a decent Cartridge mast too (i have the 3m one for home i would really recommend them).

[Grizzly]

i guess its going to be a case of spraying in parts fun fun fun!

What colour is the car? after thinking about it, if you go this route make sure you apply it all the same (i.e. same amount of Base coat, same amount of clear, same pressure etc)

[monkey-fd3s]

Sorry didn\'t mean to worry anyone... that\'s what i meant about planning and doing things with a bit of thought to overcome the issues...

You\'ll be fine if you take time and care - as with most things...

[John_Hudson]

the car is cellulose blue atm.... well. whats left of it is, it will be black and im going lacquerless due to being a lazy git when it comes to polishing