Cut out

[TiddlesRX7]

still having problems. It seems to be fine now unless I put the lights or wipers on. At this point the rev\'s jump up between 1200 and 2000 rpm. Is this the BAC as stated before?

The BAC valve only compensates for engine load from PS and lights and air con.

If so what can I do to fix it if anything?

[TiddlesRX7]

Yep it defo got something to do with the electrics. Everytime I touched the boost controller or the heater it made the idle go lumpy or raise to 2000rpm. Could it be down to a bad earth or something like that? It was really annoying not being able to play with it at the track.

[BenLewisMav]

You could try the resistance/continuity tests in the factory service manual to determine if the BAC valve is any good, swapping it for a spare one might be a bit quicker if you have one.
Also check the earth points (sorry the diagram with them on is on the other comp.), should still be able to find them in the FSM though.
I\'m going to be resetting and testing all my idle control devices tomorrow I\'ll let you know if theres anything else it could be from my findings

[TiddlesRX7]

Ok. I swapped the BAC for a spare one I had. I set the idle and all seemed good. When I operated the electrics in the car the revs dropped slightly. I thought I should take it for a spin so got in the car shut the door and the revs jumped up to 1300 ish. Im wondering now if I have a dodgy conection on the wires that hook up to the BAC and that it keeps acting like its disconected. Im right in thinking the revs should rise when the conector is disconected arn\'t I? Or is there another way to set the idle other than the screw on the BAC?