new radiator just come in

[scratchies]

hope this will help everyone my new rad turned up and it pucker  got from ebay this is the user id  advan_racing(3442got this from usa del by airmail completed the sale wed got it today the workmanship is great anyone who need the upgrade    it only cost me £156.00 to my door it was $304.00 with the del hope this helps    stu:Thumbs-up

[scratchies]

[ashc]

let us know what the fit is like please

[scratchies]

well ive got a koyo rad at work  and they look the same other than the koyo is about 5mm smaller in thickness otherwise its the same, spot on

[clarkey]

hi scratchies
im currently dropping a rebuilt engine into my fd i decided to upgrade the cooling so i got me one of those rads as well. I was impressed with it when i recieved it, quality was good i bolted on the fans tonight though and had to modify it a bit, some of the holes didnt line up properly i hope its a good job when cars back running again, let me know how you get on with yours,if you  get it on your car first  tell me if your temps are down as it\'ll be 2 wks before im back on rd (waiting on engine mount) cheers

[scratchies]

not sure mine will be first as think i need rebuild as it just stopped sat night didnt strat again then did sunday since has been allright so doing the save of money for the job porting and single tuby

[Grizzly]

Let us know what the temps are like when you have it fitted.

[kbareham]

It  looks nicely made. Please let us know how stable the temps are during driving too, i.e what happens when you drive at 30 MPH, vs 70 MPH. Also long uphill vs long downhill etc.

I had a custom radiator made, which meant a lot of re-arranging stuff in the front of the bay. You first picture shows exactly why I had one made to my design:

Th FD radiator has its bottom hose roughly a third of the way from the left of the bottom tank. In my opinion, the water flow will enter the top at the right and take the shortest path to the outlet, leaving the left third of the radiator not contributing much to cooling.

Now look at the top tank - the top left has a much smaller volume further restricting flow. It seems to me that the FD radiator therefore is only effective over about two thirds of its width at best.

I haven\'t measured temperatures across the core on an FD one, so this is only based on my sitting in the workshop and looking at it for a few hours. Plus of course the hopeless temperature stability of a stock FD. I know that many people are using the stock design replacements, presumably without lots of overheating! My interest is in how this one performs as a reference.

I now have a design with uniform symetric side tanks and the hoses at top right and bottom left. Temps are 84 at any speed, and a rise of 1 degree idling for an hour if the A/C switch is used to run the fans.

Keith

[scratchies]

Im Told By Someone Who Has Aready Fitted One That The Temps Does Not Go Above 80.3  When Driveing  And When At Idle It Goes Up 82.6 Across All Of The Rad Becuase Of It Being An Alloy Rad It Diserpates The Heat Faster But You Can Get The Temps Down Lower By Removing The Water Pump Ect And Running Electric Pump Which Has Been Said That The Temps Come Down Even Lower But The Engine Temp Will Still Stay At The Usual Coz Of The Thermostat Controling It Ect So I Think Its A Much Of A Much  All No Is That Better Than A Stock Rad As It Thicker And All Alloy

[Grizzly]

I think most people are more concerned about under load figures, Most people that are upgrading are into motor sport and FD\'s are renound for the temps to climb when you are giving it WOT round a Track.

There is a write up that i saw a while back basically saying a well ducted Stock size alloy rad is as efficient if not more than some of the single pass twin cores (mainly because of how the rad slows the air down as it passes through) In my opinion i\'d be looking at a twin pass rad (if you are going to upgrade you might as well by a top end one and get the best Possible gains)

[Grizzly]

Im Told By Someone Who Has Aready Fitted One That The Temps Does Not Go Above 80.3  When Driveing  And When At Idle It Goes Up 82.6 Across All Of The Rad Becuase Of It Being An Alloy Rad It Diserpates The Heat Faster But You Can Get The Temps Down Lower By Removing The Water Pump Ect And Running Electric Pump Which Has Been Said That The Temps Come Down Even Lower But The Engine Temp Will Still Stay At The Usual Coz Of The Thermostat Controling It Ect So I Think Its A Much Of A Much  All No Is That Better Than A Stock Rad As It Thicker And All Alloy

Electric pumps are not really good for the road, i\'m sure i don\'t need to tell you that an Engine is designed to run at an Optimum temp there is a reason why Mazda Fit a Thermostat, all the bad things in a motor is caused when its Cold so The Thermostat is Use to warm it up as quick as poss, remove this and it takes an AGE to warm up. This is why you see Race cars with Pre heater on the engine.

[scratchies]

Electric pumps are not really good for the road, i\'m sure i don\'t need to tell you that an Engine is designed to run at an Optimum temp there is a reason why Mazda Fit a Thermostat, all the bad things in a motor is caused when its Cold so The Thermostat is Use to warm it up as quick as poss, remove this and it takes an AGE to warm up. This is why you see Race cars with Pre heater on the engine.

i agree but just saying that other do this ie on track race cars not to sure what temps he trying to get down too as there will always be heat if he not moving not sure if he\'s getting that

[kbareham]

I think that the best advantage of electric pumps is that you can arrange for them to run for a while after the engine has been stopped. This way you can keep the coolant moving to cool the engine and avoid heat soak. Also, it keeps water moving through the turbo and cools that gently. A stock renault I owned over 10 years did this - it took me a while to realize what the noise was every time I stopped the car.:3Confused

I know at least one person who has removed an electric pump recently and put the stock pump back on due to a lack of flow when under high load.

Keith

[Grizzly]

i agree but just saying that other do this ie on track race cars not to sure what temps he trying to get down too as there will always be heat if he not moving not sure if he\'s getting that

Its not so much what the temp drops to but more of a case of what it constantly stays at under load (ie. Track work, The amount of Hp you run also makes a big difference and position of Ic etc) The idea being you can hammer it for as long and as hard as you like, sit in trafic etc etc  and your temp will never go above 86.

kbareham, Out of interest what Renault did you have? I was really into 5 Turbo\'s at one stage and renault did some odd things to that to stop the fuel Evaporating off from inside the carb

[Baz116]

so what is the difference between a twin pass rad and the rad scratchie has bought??
thanks