Brake bleeding

Started by Matts-gen2, July 29, 2007, 11:08:42 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Matts-gen2

I have read other threads about brake bleeding, but just wanted to make sure I dont or do have to do the clutch at the same time.

Ive got a gen 2 (FC), and thought the previous threads were referring to the gen 3. (FD).

Thanks,

Matt

grinder

nope - clutch is seperate on the FC :D


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Matts-gen2

Thanks man, its all done.  The brakes feel bit  better, but the pedal sinks further.

I mean you have to push right to the floor.

Do you think master cylinder is dead?

Pads and disks are all fine.

Matt

Matts-gen2

I might be being an idiot saying this, but can someone just confirm to me that the brake pedal should be pressed to the floor before opening and during closing the bleed nipple.

My brakes go from soft, less soft, okay, hard.  And then go soft again.

I presumed that this is the brake Master cylinder, but have been told it could be that there is still air in the system or the \'servo\' is knackered.

???

Prof

Brake fluid may be old as well.
 
You should take the cap off the resevoir, attach a brake bleed kit to the nipple, release the nut a little and then pump the pedal a couple of times, keeping an eye on the resevoir.  When it gets towards the low level line, fill it back up.  I did this several times on the left hand side until I had replaced all of the fluid in the resevoir and more (there is quite a length of pipe to flush through as well.  Then tighten that brake and go do the others.  Once the resevoir and master cylinder are full of new fluid, it\'s only the pipe lengths that need flushing.  If your lucky, the oil may be a slightly different colour, so you can see when the fresh stuff is coming out.
 
If the brakes go soggy overnight, you may have a vacuum leak or a leak in brake system.  Does the level in the resevoir go down - if so you\'re leaking brake fluid.  If not, then could be a vac leak.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Matts-gen2

All the fluid has been replaced already (yesterday) , old fluid was brown/red colour, new fluid is golden colour.

I bled all the old fluid out first (bar what wouls stil be left in the lines and small amount in reservoir), from rear nearside, rear offside, front nearside, front offside.

Then filled the reservoir with new to the top.

Went back in the same order pumping the brake until colour changed, was obvious red.... to golden colour.

The once all was done.

Went round and checked again.

I had the pedal pressed down during closing and opening of the bleed nipple.

Sounds like this is where i went wrong.

Air lock sounds most likely scenario.  Ill bleed it again slowly.  Hopefully this will be the problem solved.

Thanks