Handbrake S3

mpk490p · June 30, 2007, 04:05:18 PM

My car failed the mot today headlight aligment (new shocks and Springs caused this) which i sorted and handbrake, i bled all the brakes Thursday and they were fine then, i adjusted the screw in the cab but one side it rock hard with the other pants!
had the whole caliper to bits (it was working fine on the foot brake before this) could see anything worn or missing, the cables seems to be pulling just as far on each side so im baffeled? put a extra washer on the cable to get some more pull on it but im still worried it wont pass
A) would one side strech more than the other?
B) should i replace both back cables at the same time
C) could it be something else?

Thanks Mark

David Nock (RIP) · July 01, 2007, 11:23:09 AM

Is it the offside rear that doesn\'t brake? Our previous S3 did this . From memory it was the cable at the wheel end, you have to find some way of getting oil up the sheathing. Disconnect the cable at the wheel, prove that the calliper is OK, simply by levering the handbrake cam (claw thing) on the calliper, then turn your attention to that last section of cable. Funny thing is, the nearside doesn\'t get affected the same. I had to do this for every MOT.
My theory is that the stiff cable makes the handbrake mechanism transfer all the effort you put in to the good side.

daverey · July 01, 2007, 12:04:41 PM

I had same problem with my 626, to get oil down the sheath I cut a plastic funnel so that I could force it over on end and the taped it up with duck tape, then hung it up in the garage, warmed up some oil and filled the funnel and left it over night. Don\'t forget to put a tray underneath to catch the oil.
I have think I have a set from a series 2 if it stops raining long enough I will get my car out and see if they are the same.

Dave

mpk490p · July 01, 2007, 01:15:36 PM

Yes its the off side,
i can get a new cable but i would of thought both sides would need doing a the same time, will try the oil trick though, i know the caliper itself is good, rebuilt the handbrake mecanisum yesterday so no problems there, its due to go back in tomorrow at mid day!

thanks
Mark

mpk490p · July 01, 2007, 06:19:48 PM

no problem with the cable, it may be stetched, i did notice the pads were low looked at the other side and they looked just as low but plenty of stopping power, i was going to get drilled and grooved discs this year so may order them now with new pads and some rebuilt kits.
anyone know of a good place to get all this?

gary i know you do the discs and pads, can you get handbrake cables?

Mark

David Nock (RIP) · July 01, 2007, 08:22:42 PM

OK then, Try new pads; when you wind in the calliper pistons to fit the discs, that might sort out the adjustment problem. I can\'t see how a stretched cable will affect things, because the cable T bar under the handbrake distributes the effort between wheels and they would be equally good or bad. Is the T bar seized? Unlikely.

mpk490p · July 02, 2007, 08:05:28 AM

David its really got me, i can see any problems or worn parts in the handbrake sytem both caliper or cable, got my mate to pull the hanbrake on with both rear wheels off and they pull pretty much the same distance, the pads seem to have worn evenly on both sides, footbrake is fine on both sides, maybe a worn disc on one side? it just wouldnt make sense, played with it for about 3 hours last night:2eek (hanbrake that is) dont really want to bodge it to get through but may have too, i do know the guy down the test centre and it is only 2 mins from home so im gonna try something this morning sh*t or bust i think they call it!

Mark

daverey · July 02, 2007, 10:08:53 AM

One thing that might help is to slacken off the adjustment at the handbrake and drive the car for a few miles preferably on a nice country road with lots of braking and then re-adjust the handbrake.

Dave

mpk490p · July 02, 2007, 10:41:52 AM

Quote from: davereyOne thing that might help is to slacken off the adjustment at the handbrake and drive the car for a few miles preferably on a nice country road with lots of braking and then re-adjust the handbrake.

Dave

nice thought but with nio tax or mot mmmmm a yellow rx7 lowered with a large rear wing does stand out!
had another look this morning it can only either be a streched cable on one side or the handbrake side of the caliper,
going to order a cable and ear make a caliper in case it is that
the off side if 100% spot on so im hoping its just the rear near side cable, only problem is im away with work untill thursday and the car was suppose to be going to WGT on Friday!
Knightmare
Mark

MikeLMR · July 02, 2007, 06:05:08 PM

has it been sat a long time by any chance ? thats probably half your problem there. Take the pads out scrub them on the driveway (if it\'s rough concrete) and put them back in ... works a treat on a car thats been sat round for a long while in my experience.

David Nock (RIP) · July 02, 2007, 06:11:42 PM

Yes, and when replacing the pads make sure that the pistons are wound back in as per the Haynes manual. That might reset the cam or whatever adjuster there is inside the calliper.

mpk490p · July 02, 2007, 06:30:53 PM

Quote from: MikeLMRhas it been sat a long time by any chance ? thats probably half your problem there. Take the pads out scrub them on the driveway (if it\'s rough concrete) and put them back in ... works a treat on a car thats been sat round for a long while in my experience.

Mike,
the car has only been sat a couple of months, my thoughts are someone has replaced the driverside cable (as per the problem Dave mentioned as the cable looks in better nick) all the strain would then be put onto the weaker cable, as the drivers side is still holding strong i would not of noticed the problem untill MOT, i should have a new cable tomorrow / wed so we shall see!
thanks for the advice though will try and rough them up a bit
Mark

mpk490p · July 02, 2007, 06:33:18 PM

Quote from: David NockYes, and when replacing the pads make sure that the pistons are wound back in as per the Haynes manual. That might reset the cam or whatever adjuster there is inside the calliper.

did turn the piston back in first thing and it went in fine just gonna hold on for the cable i think, rebooked the engine work for the 20th so im hoping it will be done for JAE
thanks All will keep you updated!!

Mark

David Nock (RIP) · July 02, 2007, 06:35:14 PM

Been thinking some. The order for my money is 1) slaken the adjuster right off in the handbrake body. 2) Slaken the cable at the bad wheel and unhook it from the claw. 3) Check cable which you probably have done. 4) remove pads and follow Mike\'s suggestion. Make sure you wind in the pistons clockwise as per Haynes before refitting. 5) retighten at back until it seems right then take up the final adjustment at the handbrake lever to 4 or 5 clicks.
Sorry Mark message crossed with your posts

mpk490p · July 02, 2007, 06:37:16 PM

Quote from: David NockBeen thinking some. The order for my money is 1) slaken the adjuster right off in the handbrake body. 2) Slaken the cable at the bad wheel and unhook it from the claw. 3) Check cable which you probably have done. 4) remove pads and follow Mike\'s suggestion. Make sure you wind in the pistons clockwise as per Haynes before refitting. 5) retighten at back until it seems right then take up the final adjustment at the handbrake lever to 4 or 5 clicks.

David,
done all this 5 times even had the caliper to bits and that seems fine can only think it is the post above which would explain a streched cable on one side
i put additional washers behind the mounting bracket behind the disc and around the t piece to give me some extra pull but it doesnt improve it
had a quote for drilled and grooved discs all round with pads works out about Â£50 a corner so im gonna go for them too (was looking to do this after the engine work anyway)
Thanks
Mark