engine rebuild

[bnaellis]

Hi Chaps,

while recovering from a cold I have had plenty opportunity to do some thinking:rolleyes: how easy is it to remove/strip & rebuild an engine from a rx7. What special tools are need to remove any stationary gear etc. I did mechanics for 7 years or so should not expect it to be too difficult any help/tips would be appreciated.

rgds

[MikeLMR]

I know you need a HUUGE socket to remove the flywheel nut ... I think its 52mm ... its whats stopping me from stripping down my spare 12a at the moment.

[iaint]

Just a supposition but I guess one of the tricky things is the little bits of knowledge that the experts have.  Every task has them.

They make the job easier if you know tham and a real pain if not.  There are probably a few real \'gotchas\' too!

Only way to find out is to try and the Tarrantine (sp?) video might be useful there.

Iain

[JayDee]

Hey Brian, how you doing?
I would say about £150-£200, it depend on what tools you already have.
I am in N London and currently have my engine apart f you wish to see what tool i use.

Jason

[bnaellis]

Hi Jason,

I\'m doing alright mate.
I sent you a pm I think yesterday by the way.
I\'ll give you a shout when i\'m next free so I see what\'s what.
Likely to be about 10days time or so wellbusy at the mo.

rgds

[bnaellis]

Originally posted by MikeLMR
I know you need a HUUGE socket to remove the flywheel nut ... I think its 52mm ... its whats stopping me from stripping down my spare 12a at the moment.

For measuring clearances do you just normally use a normal filer gauge or something special? the 12 a you have out at the moment is this going to be your first go at rebuilding?

rgds

[JayDee]

Brian
I just saw your pm

[MikeLMR]

I don\'t think I\'ll be rebuilding it straight away ... just wanted to strip it down and see whats up with it (previous owner thought it was low compression even though it had been rebuilt less than 10K miles ago)

Not sure what they use to check clearances .. the only other way I can think of measuring clearances other than using feeler guages is by using a "metal set" where you put a compound on the surface assemle the two parts together and let it set and then measure the resulting cast.

I think the hardest bit about rebuilding a rotor is measuring parts and knowing what clearance you need to achieve.

I\'ve rebuilt a couple of piston engines before but I can\'t say i\'m confident in my abilities.

[Wav]

I\'m planning on doing my own rebuild this Spring/Summer once i\'ve managed to get an FD shell with a blown engine. From what i\'ve researched and from the answers i\'ve recieved so far (WGT) it seems that it is very possible as long as you take your time and have at least some mechanical/practical know how

Although the more info, instructions, guides the better i\'d say, so if anyone\'s has any to hand please post a link here

Kind Regards,

Paul:)

[Mike]

Hi Guys,

Just spotted this thread whilst browsing.... I\'m currently rebuilding my 13b lump after it threw an apex seal.  I\'ll post pictures later on a new thread, but in response I haven\'t used any \'special\' tools yet .... apart from a 54mm socket for the flywheel nut and a 3m scaffold pole!!

So its all in bits now and am just cleaning stuff up and looking at the amount of parts I need to replace!!:(

Paul, if you need some help/advice when it comes to your rebuild, theres loads of help available, and I\'d be happy to pass on the knowledge I now have.  If you can get a copy of the rebuild DVD I would highly recommend it - saved me a few hours, but that was mainly on getting the thing out the engine bay....

Mike.

[davefrith]

For those that have rebuilt their 13b or are intending to do themselves, do you know the costs of the parts you need, or where they can be ordred from cheaply

cheers

Dave

[Mike]

I\'ve only just started looking at parts for the rebuild, but after speaking with Carl, I\'m going for the genuwine Mazda Apex seals.  I think they\'ve replaced the 3-piece design with the 2-piece.

As for the other seals, if anyone knows a good cost effective, and reliable source let us all know.

I\'m also gonna need a housing, and maybe the plates depending on the wear, so I\'ll soon be contacting Pip for some 2nd hand parts.

Mike.

[Jus]

@ Dave and Mike.

Both Grizzly and myself have completed a full over-haul of the 13b, complete with large secondary ports and extended exhaust ports.

The whole job was completed within one week, this includes removal and re-fit, within our 12,000 sqft premisies.

One of the hardest parts is getting the flywheel nut off, lol.

You will need to complete PLENTY of cleaning, messuring and checking all the right items.

When you\'re ready to rebuild your 13b it\'s like making a big oily cake, love it...

We have put together the complete rebuild kit, which includes Teflon encapsulated water seal and Viton oil seals. Also included is a full set of Apex seals and a full gasket set, using quality parts sourced from around the world.

To help the home mechanic we would also included a step-by-step video for both engine removal and 13b over-haul, with added bits.

This is not a promotion for a business venture but is simply a hobbie, which we are happy to keep behind doors, so not to step on peoples feet.

Regards...

Jus

[davefrith]

Jus

So for the purpose of information, what would you say the approx figure for parts would be ? to rebuild said 13b

Dave

[Carl]

Some things to note on doing a rebuild.
Try to use genuine Mazda parts.
Check rotor housings VERY carefully if you are going to reuse them.They may look good but be ever so slightly warped due to all of the heat cycles they have been through.Also they will be narrower in the hotter areas around the spark plugs and down through the combustion area.This may preclude reusing them too.
If either of these problems are there you will end up with coolent leaks internaly.Check the spark plug holes for cracks,if they are cracked you may get coolent leaks.
When checking the seal clearances don\'t make them too tight or the seals will bind when hot due to their expanding more than the rotor\'s(Particularly side seals),follow the guides from Haynes,don\'t make them too loose either or compression will be low.
The apex seal grooves should be fairly tight if possible with no flaring at the top of the apex seal groove.A smooth sliding movement and no rocking is important for gas sealing.
The oil control rings should be in good order with less than 0.5mm wear on the rubbing surface.
The corner seal holes should be a nice tight smooth sliding fit with no room for rocking,but not so tight that they don\'t move smoothly and easily.
The side housings should have no deep scoring from wear or the compression will be lower than desirable.You can either get them Lapped or buy new housings.You must look very carefuly for corrosion in the seal grooves for the water seals too.

I always on customer cars use new rotor housings,and sometimes new side housings.

I also  to use new seals throughout including apex,side,corner,oil control ring "O" rings,water seals.

Kind regards
Carl

:wave