How To Fit An Apexi PFC Plus Update. Fuelling Issues?

[Tiger_kpt]

Well... spent tonight finishing off the installation of my new spark plugs (7\'s and 9\'s) and my Magnecor leads. As well as my Pettit Racing AST. No issues and runs fine.

Although not as bad as before, runs alot smoother. The idling problem is still present, just not as severe or harsh.

My next guess is fuelling maybe.

I have inspected the old spark plugs. The leading plugs were black and carbonned up - bit crusty. Whereas the trailing had hints of black but were mostly a browny colour.

Doesn\'t browny mean that the engine is running lean? Should the trailing plugs be this colour?
How can the leading be running well or rich and the trailing run lean?

The idling problem started after fitting an ARC super induction box. It does eventually settle at an idle if left (maybe time for the standard ECU to adjust fuelling to suit?) But it idles up and down between 500 and 900rpm when coming to a stop or put into neutral when driving. Idles roughly for around 2mins before stabilising. Also while running rough at a standstill before stabilising the car vibrates quite a bit, it slounds as though there is a metallic clattering sound in time with the rough idling tempo coming from below the car (maybe the main CAT?) and the car smells a tad funny. Some kind of potent emissions kind of like half burnt half unburnt fuel from either the front or the middle of the car. Maybe escaping from the ARC box? Could this be EGR?

EGR is still plumbed in. Would you advise blanking this?

The car is still standard management and also has a downpipe (pre-cat removed) and a Racing Beat cat-back exhaust as well as a HKS ignition amplifier with new plugs and leads now.

I\'m guessing that with the addition of the ARC box (more air) the ECU cannot keep up in terms of fuel? Rougher running at low RPM (idling) and smooth yet maybe not as powerful at high RPM (maybe just me getting used to the power and speed of the car though).

What do you guys think to that set-up in terms of my issues? And fuelling?

I have an Apexi PFC with commander here ready to install. I have the instructions and was going to have a go at installing the unit tonight and letting it set itself up. I removed the passenger side footwell cover to reveal the factory ECU. But it seems a tad impossible to remove. It is held in to the side of the car by four brackets. Two upper and two lower, each containing four Philips headed screws which are impossible to get a tool into to remove. So... I gave up for tonight.

How are you meant to remove the standard ECU to get to and take off the harness connectors to plug into the new ECU? I\'m planning on removing the standard unit and replacing it with the Apexi then recovering with the trim. Is this possible? Or am I going about it the wrong way?

I know the base map on the Apexi is slightly richer than the map on the standard ECU, so maybe this will cure the idling problem.

Installation hints and tips for the PFC with the above issues would be greatly appreciated.

Also... does it sound as though the car is running lean?

Any feedback would be welcomed! :cheers

[strange_days_uk]

The apexi is only a 20 min job

Make sure you disconnect your battery, remove the old ecu, plug in the apexi, reconnet battery, start up car let idle for about 10 mins, then switch on heated rear windscreen, idle for 5 more, then switch on air con, idle for a bit more.

Done..!!

I had no trouble getting out my old ecu, might have used a socket with phillips attachment not sure, or short stubby screwdriver.

The map is rich enough for aftermarket intake and exhaust, the "base mods" you might call them.

Do it !  I did mine in the dark, do it now now !!

[Tiger_kpt]

That\'s my problem. I know what to do with it, what it does and how to set it up. Just can\'t get the old ECU out. Can\'t get to the screws. Four under the unit and four on top. It\'s a UK spec car so is the ECU mounted differently?
I only removed the small side cover panel to uncover the unit only. Do I need to remove the glovebox also?

Tried a stubby screwdriver, can\'t get it in. Tried a socket bit and ratchet, can\'t get it in. Ran out of options.

Would I be OK running the Apexi on the base map into positive boost? Or do you recommend only driving it within negative boost until mapped properly?

[ro284]

I replaced my ecu with an Apexi, it\'s just a matter of getting the 10 mill bolts out there are two at the bottom and 2 (i think ) at the top, maybe one, then you can get the phillips screws out, put the brackets top and bottom back in again and fit the Apexi to them, with the hook and loop pads, i took my Apexi out again, can\'t make my mind up about keeping it, but it did not seem to run too rich to me, but then i was worried about it not being mapped at the time so gone back to standard ecu for now, and the car is certainly fast enough for me,
Good luck Bob

[strange_days_uk]

That\'s my problem. I know what to do with it, what it does and how to set it up. Just can\'t get the old ECU out. Can\'t get to the screws. Four under the unit and four on top. It\'s a UK spec car so is the ECU mounted differently?
I only removed the small side cover panel to uncover the unit only. Do I need to remove the glovebox also?

Tried a stubby screwdriver, can\'t get it in. Tried a socket bit and ratchet, can\'t get it in. Ran out of options.

Would I be OK running the Apexi on the base map into positive boost? Or do you recommend only driving it within negative boost until mapped properly?

you can happily boost all day with the apexi, but a good map will get you more power.

[Oedipus Rex]

ro284 is right, there are some bolts to remove before you get to the screws. just unscrew and unbolt everything in sight, as they come out it will start to make sense and you can rescrew or re bolt whatever you didn\'t need to remove, there\'s an earth down there somewhere that needs to stay in.

If you have been running lean the PFC base map will be a perfect temporary solution till you get it mapped.

Although if Pips doing your map it will overfuel and pop and bang even more when you get it back:rollin

. He\'s nothing if not cautious bless him

[Tiger_kpt]

The only screws I can get to are the four on the actual ECU unit. One at each corner on the face nearest the drivers side. But I think that these are the screws to hold the actual ECU together and shouldn\'t be removed. So are too stiff to unscrew and would rather chew up than come out.

The brackets that hold the ECU to the chassis (two on top and two below)... are they part of the chassis? Or are they seperate parts... as in seperate to the chassis and seperate to the ECU, just bolted together.

Has anyone got any pictures of the ECU in the footwell to point out which bolts or fixtures I need to remove to get the ECU out. As the ones which I would go for I can\'t get to.

Or at least try to describe the ones to remove and the order to remove them in?

Suppose running too rich is far better than running too lean. lol.

If I could get the old out and the new in I would happily try the new unit. Hearing some good comments about the PFC.

Oh... and do you guys recommend de-catting with a straight through centre pipe? Or going to a high flow CAT? Taking into account the price difference.

[strange_days_uk]

Don\'t touch the actual ecu itself, the bracket holding it to the chassis is what you want to undo.  4 bolts I think, unscrew them and the ecu can then be detached, after you uncouple it from the loom.

There are a couple of plastic trim bits to remove to expose them.

[Tiger_kpt]

OK... so remove a couple of plastic trim bits...

Remove four bolts on the top side of the ECU...


And remove the ECU.

Is there any flex or extra length in the loom wires? Or do I have to disconnect the loom connectors from the ECU before removing the ECU to fit the PFC?

Does the ECU come away as just the bare unit? Or does it come away with brackets and other fittings attached which you have to strip down once it is off?

[strange_days_uk]

unbolt the ecu bracket first, then you will need to uncouple the loom.

you will know what to do, it is easy enough..

[RobbieRX-7]

The plugs are a bit of a cow to undo, you will need strong fingers. Mount the pfc unit with the connectors facing the front of the car and logo facing the passenger door. This way you can easily plug or unplug the commander into the top of the unit without removing the plastic trim. Use the 4 velcro pads to hold it. The brackets off the old ecu can be adjusted to squash the pfc unit and hold it tight

[Tiger_kpt]

OK, had a look through your feedback and over the net and know what to do now.
 
Here\'s a question for you though...
 
I have a 1993... UK-SPEC... FD13 RX7. Are these similar to the Jap market cars or the US market cars? The reason I ask this is as follows: -
 
Would I have to disable the four wires on the loom connectors as stated below in the paragraphs taken from Dale Clark\'s Power FC FAQ e-book: -
 
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"There are 4 wires that need to be disconnected from the wiring harness for the PowerFC to work properly. These 4 wires are for extra emissions devices that were added in the US market, but weren\'t in the Japanese market. These 4 wires are for the EGR valve control, the EGR switch (the feedback in the California ECU cars to tell the ECU the EGR valve is working), the accelerated warmup system (AWS) which gives you the 3000 RPM startup when cold, and the Split Air Bypass solenoid, which can bypass air going to the main cat back to the airbox.
 
NOTE: If you have a non-US FD, you most likely won’t have to cut these wires, as the wiring is the same as the Japanese market FD’s. The only
reason for this modification is making US wiring harnesses similar to Japanese harnesses. There are different methods for accomplishing this. You can either simply cut the 4 wires on the stock wiring harness and tape the ends up, cut the wires and splice an electrical connector onto the loose ends so they can be quickly re-attached, pull the pins out of the wiring harness\' connector, or break the pins off on the PowerFC itself.
 
Personally, I\'m not a fan of breaking the pins off - it\'s too easy to harm something else or break the wrong pin off. Whatever method you choose, make sure to insulate the bare electrical connection so it doesn\'t short out against something else."
 
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The reason I ask is that if I do... and don\'t. It will run like a bag of crap.
 
 
Also... when installing the PFC, did any of you guys adjust the Throttle Body Idle Bleed Screw? Completely close it then open it half a turn to set it? Apparently you should do???
 
Your thoughts on this would be appreciated.

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[ro284]

No, Dont dissable any wiring i\'m pretty sure these relate to cars for the  US market, Blitzboy is your man if he reads this,
I adjusted my Air bleed screw as you described,
Good luck Bob

[Tiger_kpt]

When adjusting your air bleed screw... did you ground terminal 10 of the diagnostic connector? Apparently this needs to be grounded during the adjustment before adjusting the screw on the TB. Otherwise the idle reset won\'t work. Read this on the net. Not sure how true this is.
 Where is the diagnostic connector?

[RobbieRX-7]

Just read dale clarke\'s faq page.  You need to remove the intake elbow, screw the idle screw in then back out half turn, refit elbow, dont cut any wires. You only need to cut wires on the us models. Just follow his faq\'s and you will be fine. I did and mine idles and works puuurfect