track day advice? what do i need?

Started by Baz116, February 15, 2007, 09:53:30 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Crazy Eddie

Just out of interest Baz what would be your local track?

I\'ve been looking at some of these Novice Track Days at Oulton etc as have instructors on hand as well which I think would be benefitial.

Oh and Shaunwil next time you are at Oulton please give me PM I would be really interested in the passenger ride especially seeing the lines you would take in the rex. Or even better I could take mine too and you could be my instructor :D

Cheers
Eddie

royal

#16
Cooling is the weak point with rx7s so go easy if you havn\'t got any cooling upgrades. Keep a close eye on your fc commander temperatures (if you havn\'t got one , then you probably should if you are serious about tracking it or driving it hard).
You will probably go through half a set of tyres so bare this in mind when deciding whether to use your normal ones or get spare wheels. I personnally prefer to get spare wheels if I use the car for day to day driving.
Make sure you have good brake pads and discs, you\'ll go through plenty of pad so may need new ones after. Also make sure if you buy discs  before that they are well worn in otherwise they can warp the discs. Realise what brake fade is and expect it as then it wont take you by surprise at the wrong moment. IE if you overheat your fluid/brake system you can put your foot right to the floor and have no braking whatsoever! Its probably worth putting new brake fluid in your car. I personnally think that if you drive the car properly on track then the rx7 brakes are perfectly good enough. I\'ve never had brake fade on the rx7 even after giving it huge welly boots.
Driving instruction is worth its weight in gold. I guarantee you will rag your car if you track it without any proper instruction. After instruction you realise you need to brake to the correct speed BEFORE the corner. You\'ll also learn to match your revs when braking and changing down gears which is much more sympathetic to the car. I reckon I\'ve payed for instruction many times over by the money that I\'ve saved by not abusing the car like I did on my first track sessions in my old car.
The Rx7 is such an awesome car to track, it\'ll be the most fun you ever have in a car as its perfect for it. Nice and light with awesome balance and good brakes. Just what the doctor ordered :-)

antnicuk

if you do change the pads for better ones, i would change the fluid to an uprated one,  the stock fluid will boil with better pads.  This will give you heart failiure as it happens quite quickly!
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


shaunwil

My Biggest problem last time was I was getting a bit of brake fade and alot of right leg fade :D

I Think id upgrade to bigger brakes just so i don\'t need to hammer them.

If it the first day take you time to get into it and slowly spped up during the day. I went in the kitty littter the first time by chasing a cateram round oulton !

Anybody is welcome for a ride in the passenger seat if they turn up, but im not the fastest here by a long shot.

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

TonyC

Quote from: Baz116hi,
   I`m hoping to do some track days with my rex in the summer, I have never been to one of these before so not 100% sure what I need?
I`m assuming a 2nd set of alloys with track tyres will be needed, but what else?

thanks,
Baz.

To be fair, if this is your first visit to a track I wouldn;t worry about fitting the latests trackday tyres, high temp brake pads and so on - You will be spending most fo the time wondering whihc way the track goes, worrying about traffic and wondering if you are in the right position on the track.

As a novice I woudl recommend your car prep is to ensure it is all in good nick. Make sure brake pads and discs have plenty of meat, ensure the brake fluid is fresh and good quuality. Make sure yo haev no leaking dampers, cooling is ok.
Take with you wheel brace, oil, water, tyre presure gauge.

Torque the wheels before each session. Check oils and waters before each session. Including brake/clutch fluid levels.
Check tpe presures when cold. I woudl start off leaving them at normal cold road presures.

Ensure you are comfortable in the car. Ideal seating position is so you can fully depress the clutch and still have slight bend at the knee. Arms should not be fully stretched to the wheel.
Hold the wheel at quarter to 3. NO OTHER POSITION!  No fists on top of wheels, no holding the base of the wheel, no driving lesson shuffle.

TAKE IT EASY. First laps out are for you to learn. Do not concern yourself with the person in a diesel overtaking you - that is irrelevant you have no idea of their skill. You are there it learn. Take the first few laps to settle into the circuit, driving on track, watchign mirrors for traffic. Build speed.
DO not be tempted to focus straight away on being the latest braker. Braking is the hardest thing to get right with track driving. You should concentrate on smoothness of controls, and line. As you become familar with this then you can work up to braking.

You need to use the full width of the track and hit apexes. Very important this. braking should be a smooth process in a striaght line (all braking done before cornering when you are starting out). You approach the corner aware of what gear you want for the bend ahead. You brake smothly to the turn in point, change into the gear required and then begin the turn into the corner, then build acceleration through the apex and beyond.

it is all about economy of movement, smothness of input. No sawing at the wheel and jumping up and down on the pedals. I would not expect you to destroy a set of tyres, unless you were terrifically brutal. Driven smoothly, the tyres should last. I have delaminated a set of rear tyres more than once at trackdays but that was with deliberate and sustained sideways action at high speed (opposite lock at over 80mph on a 1800Kg RWD Saloon soons takes a pair of tyres apart), and I won\'t think you will be wanting to do that just yet!

And enjoy it, forget ego, forget expectations of the car, just enjoy the process of learning track driving. Speed will come.

If you pick a circuit such as Oulton or Croft then I may be available to come and sit with you. If not, make sure you do book a session with one of my fellow instructors at the circuit you choose.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Original build hours:364. Prep for Season 2: 39 hours. Follow the build: Here
Next race: TBC Contact me on Mazda 13B Racing
Follow me for \'as it happens\' updates at //www.twitter.com/MazdaGT500

iaint

Quote from: shaunwilYour a scarey man :p Oulton Park in the wet is very scarey. Turned the boost down to 0.5bar and still struggled for decent grip :3gears-rh

Shaun

Paddi=ock Hill bend in the wet is sphincter-clenchingly exciting too.

"The way to do is to be." - Lao Tzu

bobert

Over heating is a major problem for fd\'s, if it’s a warm day and your giving your car some stick around a track your coolant temps will rise up. So be careful

The best thing to do is get some good rubber, check your car over before you go and then have a good day. You will probably have some problems but you can improve them for next time.
Track days are great fun.

m4drx

i have got a huge ally rad, getting an large smic, decat and apexi +map put in together before a map, i have a boost controller, aftermarket gauges + soon a commander, quite new discs and mintex extreme pads all round.

i am hoping to grab a set of stock wheels and some tyres etc before i go out. but atm i have some problem with the backend! i have good tyres with lots of tread but something makes the rear Extremely skitish in wet or dry so i am thinking the adjustment of camber etc may be out.

also another concern is if i go forwards and lift the clutch it is smooth but when i reverse when the clutch hits biting it knocks from the rear. clutch gearbox etc are fine otherwise but i am concerned as to what the knocking is as it makes the same knock if i am at WOT and change gear.

(i am very very cautious and aware of blowing it up so i am trying to cover every base so the car is under as little strain as possible)
fduk.

antnicuk

check and replace the rear bushes, it makes a big difference then have it 4 wheel aligned.  The knocking maybe a broken power plant frame, its the long black bit that links the gearbox to the back axle.

as mentioned above, check your fluid, if it hasnt been replaced recently, do so.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


andysmee

it been said before, but it is worth saying over and over...get instruction
 
Everything else on the car just limits how long you can stay out on the track - instruction means you will have more fun than everyone else. I used to track my 406 Coupé and time and time again I would overtake faster cars just by being taught the right line and the right style of driving...
 
or just rag it and have fun...

20B_boy

Quote from: antnicukThe knocking maybe a broken power plant frame, its the long black bit that links the gearbox to the back axle.
The gearstick usually moves about a lot if the ppf is cracked, I\'ve bust a couple and the last one the stick used to move about loads on pulling away - obviously so.
R.

Baz116

Well a BIG THANKS to everybody for the advice, i have read all posts and will be taking your views seriously, thankyou once again.

Quote from: shaunwilIf you fancy Oulton Park then I\'m in :D.

Seriously though all the above and make sure you have fresh oil, good brake fluid and that everything is in top condition.

Plus make sure you know where all your towing eyes are and they are clearly visible to the marshals or they won\'t let you out on track.

If I book a day do you fancy being a passenger for the day? Either 10 or 15 quid plus a helmet (or hire one). Once you do one you won\'t look back.

Shaun
yes please shaun, i`d like that. let me know when!


Quote from: Crazy EddieJust out of interest Baz what would be your local track?

I\'ve been looking at some of these Novice Track Days at Oulton etc as have instructors on hand as well which I think would be benefitial.

Oh and Shaunwil next time you are at Oulton please give me PM I would be really interested in the passenger ride especially seeing the lines you would take in the rex. Or even better I could take mine too and you could be my instructor :D

Cheers
Eddie
I think my local track would be Oulton

Quote from: TonyCTo be fair, if this is your first visit to a track I wouldn;t worry about fitting the latests trackday tyres, high temp brake pads and so on - You will be spending most fo the time wondering whihc way the track goes, worrying about traffic and wondering if you are in the right position on the track.

As a novice I woudl recommend your car prep is to ensure it is all in good nick. Make sure brake pads and discs have plenty of meat, ensure the brake fluid is fresh and good quuality. Make sure yo haev no leaking dampers, cooling is ok.
Take with you wheel brace, oil, water, tyre presure gauge.

Torque the wheels before each session. Check oils and waters before each session. Including brake/clutch fluid levels.
Check tpe presures when cold. I woudl start off leaving them at normal cold road presures.

Ensure you are comfortable in the car. Ideal seating position is so you can fully depress the clutch and still have slight bend at the knee. Arms should not be fully stretched to the wheel.
Hold the wheel at quarter to 3. NO OTHER POSITION!  No fists on top of wheels, no holding the base of the wheel, no driving lesson shuffle.

TAKE IT EASY. First laps out are for you to learn. Do not concern yourself with the person in a diesel overtaking you - that is irrelevant you have no idea of their skill. You are there it learn. Take the first few laps to settle into the circuit, driving on track, watchign mirrors for traffic. Build speed.
DO not be tempted to focus straight away on being the latest braker. Braking is the hardest thing to get right with track driving. You should concentrate on smoothness of controls, and line. As you become familar with this then you can work up to braking.

You need to use the full width of the track and hit apexes. Very important this. braking should be a smooth process in a striaght line (all braking done before cornering when you are starting out). You approach the corner aware of what gear you want for the bend ahead. You brake smothly to the turn in point, change into the gear required and then begin the turn into the corner, then build acceleration through the apex and beyond.

it is all about economy of movement, smothness of input. No sawing at the wheel and jumping up and down on the pedals. I would not expect you to destroy a set of tyres, unless you were terrifically brutal. Driven smoothly, the tyres should last. I have delaminated a set of rear tyres more than once at trackdays but that was with deliberate and sustained sideways action at high speed (opposite lock at over 80mph on a 1800Kg RWD Saloon soons takes a pair of tyres apart), and I won\'t think you will be wanting to do that just yet!

And enjoy it, forget ego, forget expectations of the car, just enjoy the process of learning track driving. Speed will come.

If you pick a circuit such as Oulton or Croft then I may be available to come and sit with you. If not, make sure you do book a session with one of my fellow instructors at the circuit you choose.
It will probably be Oulton, i would be greatful if you could, i`ll contact you when i`m going to see if your available. thanks

:cheers

i can`t wait!!!.....