Fd Problem?

[grinder]

i feel your pain matey !!

although my cab isnt asbad as yours - its when you spend 50hrs on it and its still not running - it gets very annoying

like you said to me "take a few days away from it and see what you come up with "

(A) so if you leave it to stand then it turns over fine by hand
(B) if you try and start it / tow it then it gets stiff

humm very interesting

you mention the OMP pump - is this controlled by the engine or from the ECU ( no idea with FD\'s to be honest )

is this pumping mammoth amounts of oil in when you are trying to start it - hence the blue smoke and it getting silly high compression figures ( ie very tight engine ) - but when you turn it by hand its not pumping so its turns freeely

i have no idea what im on about really - just thinking outside the box

Stu

[Grizzly]

I\'ve just been thinking and i fitted new Braided OMP hoses on it, i\'m just woundering if its Air locked or some thing daft like that??

[grinder]

you never know chris

can you take it off and put the stock one back on ?

or remove one end and see if oil is getting thru ( or too much infact )

i know that on the FC you could test them - it would pump something like 5mm a minute - can you check this ??

im presuming its a pain to get to

[grinder]

the OMP is mentioned in the FSM under "difficulty of starting"

[Grizzly]

Well i have defo got Oil presure and oil is being pumped round becouse i\'ve just turned it over with the Oil Presure switch out.

There is Oil at the bottom of the OMP lines so there must be some sort of flow (i\'ve also dumped a load of 2 stroke oil in the Fuel now)

O how i love this car.

[Grizzly]

Has anyone had an OMP Fail on them on there FD?

What where the symptoms?

I\'m just doing a bit of home work to see if i can find out how to test it?

[grinder]

there is a way of testing the connectors in the FSM - but not how to physically check that its working as it should

[Grizzly]

The Noise is coming from the Front cover/Puller area?

[Grizzly]

there is a way of testing the connectors in the FSM - but not how to physically check that its working as it should

Yep, Swap the one of my Other Fd onto this one

I\'m now thinking along the lines i\'ve oviously messed this up so just pull it again and strip it and start again.

I just realy don\'t want to spend all the time and Effort to find its not that. I would love to know what it was so i could 100% fix it.

[andycap]

It might be the thrust bearing or the way you have put it back together, since it is a bit of a pain to remeber when you dont have the FSM in your hand.

[Glenn Butcher]

Hi Grizzly,
 
Hats off mate for doing all this yourself as always!
 
My comments/suggestions, based on what I have read.
 
How long has the engine actually run for? are we talking minutes or hours? If it is minutes, and a new rebuild - expect smoke for quite a while initially. I found in the past that the car had to be taken for a good run before the smoke actually cleared (did you use much vaseline etc.? to hold seals in when putting together?).
 
Just go back to basics with the block itself, I\'m not sure how long you have managed to get the engine running for? but have you checked plug condition? also - on turning over with the 2 trailing plugs out - does the compression sound ok? i.e. good consisent psh psh psh psh psh psh ? Saying all of that, could a spring/seal be stuck?
 
EDIT: Can you do a visual inspection through the leading plug hole with a mirror and a torch to see if the apex seals/rotors look ok? [/EDIT]
 
On an engine I had rebuilt in the past (with a carbie) it didn\'t run right initially - as I believe one of the apex seals were stuck, but it freed itself up ok and ran fine for quite a while after.
 
I personally think that not having the OMP connected and for only running for a few mins. it won\'t cause any major damage as there would be lubrication in the housing itself from fuel (at only low rpms and running for a few mins it should be ok).
 
Oil pressure is ok you have mentioned?
 
So when you turn it over by hand, you are getting a grinding noise? can you pinpoint where it is coming from?
 
Injectors cleaned and flowed?
 
Temps ok?
 
Timing light on it to check it is firing ok? if you can get it to idle etc.
 
Let us know on some of the above, I\'ll try and help some more.

[strange_days_uk]

Obvious thing from reading the first post is to check all the fuel system completely.

Voltage reading to fuel pump, delivery lines all clean and unblocked, injectors thouroughly checked.

Can\'t think what would cause "tightness", unless it was oil starvation or a busted bearing perhaps on the eccentric shaft.  apologies for noob observations.

commiserations for the suicidal thoughts..

[Jit]

were your plates lapped at all when you had the engine apart? are they square with the bearings?

[Grizzly]

Thanks for the replys guys.

I supose there was always one that was going to go wrong in a Big way

I have spent nearly four days now on it the Things i can 100% say are sound are as follows....

Engine was Built using Genuine Gasket set and seals (apart from Apex\'s that are Atkins)

It was WELL vaselined up before assembly and is all withing Tolarance, (the main Bolts are slightly over torqued as i presure tested the Block before Assembly and tighened it until there was no leakage at all)

It was Comp tested the second i had a Problem with it starting (8.1-8.3 on all faces of both rotors) i\'ve done this a few times now and only when its realy flooded does the Reading change.

New Oil pump, Chain and Regulator.

I get good oil presure on the Gauge inside and i turned it over a few times with the Oil presure switch out and even at Cranking speed there was a fair bit of Presure. (but saying that its acting like its run off the Vasaline and is getting tighter)

Injectors are Cleaned and flowed

Good Fuel Presure at the rail

Defusers and Seals are good under the Injectors

No air leaks, All the vac pipes have been redone and are 100% correct (checked 4 times now once by a Third party armed with a Vac Diagram)

Air and Water Temp sensors have been Checked Manualy (as the ECU is still stock also checked the fault codes and not come back with any at all so i would say the Loom is also good)

New Plugs and leads

New oil and Filter

New OMP braided Lines (which i did think may not be filled with oil properly as i took one off and next to no oil came out) Maybe air locked?

As it stands at the moment i can turn the engine over by hand with the Plugs out but it feels tighter then when it was first assembled, when i towed it (when it fired abit and was warm) i could\'nt turn it with a Smallish rachet on the front pulley.

As for the lapping theory, i would have thought it should have gone tight when it was assembled? also only one of the Plates (the rear) was lapped.

Which brings me onto the Noise, when its cold the Noise sounds like a Rubber seal with no oil on it (high Piched squeek, not very loud and not all the time) when its warm it has the same Noise but its Louder and more easly placed (Front cover area, around the Bottom pulley), I allso took both belts off to make sure it was\'nt anything like Waterpump or Alt etc. Defo from the Front cover Area. I would say its almost like there is no oil getting around?

[Grizzly]

TBH, At this point in the game i\'m not going to risk any more damage.

SO.... Planning to take it back out on Saturday and give it a GOOD going over, i will be sick if it Turns out to be something Dumb like a woodruf key missing from the Oil pump or some thing like that.

Its giving all the signs of oil Starvation so thats some thing i can\'t sort without it being on the garage floor.