Fd Problem?

Started by Grizzly, December 02, 2006, 05:50:45 PM

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Grizzly

Ok, Time to make myself look a complete Noob but a mixture of Flu and Anger is driving me to ask for help/Sugestions.

Basicly i\'ve just rebuilt a stock motor with Twin Turbo\'s etc, the Problem is i felt like S**t when i was building it up and my head was in the Clouds some where.

Anyway I fitted it and all went well until i started it, first off it would\'nt idle under 1500rpm (just stalled), its running REALY rich so it keeps flooding.

So i spent all day Yesterday checking all the vac pipes are correct and every thing is Plugged in, Today i checked the ECU error Codes (handy its still got a Stock ecu) that was showing an ECU fault (the Light stayed on) so i did a bit of reading and Found it was becouse it had a Bad earth, so i ran a Jump lead from the Battery to the Case of the ECU, Now when i check the Error code it Flashes Once quick and goes off (which is suposed to be Good).

So i try starting it and its So flooded it won\'t even Splutter, so i will need to tow it tomorow to get it to even Fire.

So i\'m now searching like mad to see what would cause it to Run Mega Rich and not Idle. The Rich bit is easy... Every thing (if there is any Sensor fault it will go into limp mode and run rich) but this does\'nt explain the lack of idle.

So i\'m now thinking have i fixed it (Bad earth to the ECU?? Maybe??) or have i dun some thing like plug the Crank angle Sensors in the wrong way round or maybe gto some thing wet that should\'nt be when i\'ve cleaned the parts up.

I can\'t belive i\'ve done this, Its not my First rebuild and i usaly have a Good memory for putting stuff back, plus 90% of the Plugs etc will only go one place?

Anyway i have a headache and i\'m not feeling to well at all so i\'m going to Crash.

Grizzly

Just for the people that find they have a Fault and want to check there stock ECU.

You need this http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html and Down load this http://www.wrex-racing.com/html/fd/...shop_manual.zip

Grizzly

And this is the Vacuum assembly

andycap

I\'d get it bumped first and run it for 15mins and then see what it was like. With the crank sensor plugs the wrong way ropund it wont even start.

Grizzly

#4
Not at all or Badly? You see if it is Somthing major i don\'t want to put load on it i.e. Drive it, i\'ll bump it to get it going tomorow but i\'ll tow it back after it starts.. TBH in the begining it sounded like it was bad Timing but now its run a bit and cleared all the vasline etc out it runs ok just Very rich and Idles bad. I know whats coming next, But i have come tested it three times and its always been even and above 8 bar so its not a Comp issue.

Martiny

map sensor?
vac leak ?
 is the throttle cable jammed?
Temp sensor? - it may be in warm-up mode.

shaunwil

Does sound like a map sensor fault. They run horrible if its not connected or leaking !

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

Grizzly

#7
Defo not, Air leak,Throttle cable. I\'ve spent a Day checking all the Pipes etc and even had a Third party go over it with the vac pipe Diagram to no Avail.

70% sure its not the Map (i swapped it onto my Fd and it worked ok) But you never know. I might check it with a Multi meter tomorow.

I\'m starting to think its some thing like a temp sender myself even though it does\'nt come up on the Fault codes?, I\'ve sorted the ECU earth problem but i\'ve not been able to get it start to see if that was to blame but i\'m being told that would\'nt make it run Rich (it would\'nt run?)

I think its going to be some think i\'ve done, i realy have been on Auto Pilot the last few days (Feel realy ill)

Grizzly

Do you think i need the TPS setting up?

Maybe this is Two faults thats throwing me? If the TPS is out and i have a Sensor down it will be on Limp mode, that it will explain the Engine stall? But i\'ve never rebuilt a Motor and needed to set it up? its not like i ajusted the Throttles?

Duno Grasping at Straws.

antnicuk

the FD has a much simpler TPS than the FC set up so is unlikely to be that, it does sound like a map sensor issue but you say you have checked that.  

Could it be something to do with fuel lines or injecotr wires, if you have the 850s running not the 550s it would run rich, also, if your FPR isnt working properly the fuel pressure may be higher which again would make it run rich.

Does it have an air pump?  mine ran rich when the air pump wasnt plugged in.

Just a few thoughts.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


Grizzly

I\'ll check the map sensor properly tomorow but as i say i had my FD running ok off it so i\'m 80% sure its not that.

I have the air pump on but not plugged in, Mainly becouse it has\'nt got Filters on yet and the Air pump makes an Unholly racket.

I defo have the Injectors the correct way round and plugged in correctly, that one of the things i checked.

Out of intrest, if the Map sensor is not playing ball and i pull the vac pipe off it when its running will it make any diffrence?

antnicuk

as soon as you pull the pipe off it will not read vacume and think you are creating boost so adds fuel and runs like sh1t.

Might be worth checking your fuel pressure at idle,  maybe that the pump is flat out as iirc they are 2 stage, and they slow down for idl to reduce pressure and emmissions.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


Grizzly

Bit of an Update, Well it seems a bit more Serious than i thought.

Spent all morning checking all the sensors where working properly and stuff like Plug leads where the Correct way round etc.

Anyway long story short, I decided to tow it Round the Block as it was Proper Flooded. First time round it was Poping and missing as you would expect, Next time round it started to act like the engine was getting Tighter as it warmed up a bit?? so i stoped and Turned it over by Hand and there was a Loud noise (sounds like a Dry bearing). So at this point i took the Air pump and PS belt off (put the Decat Pulleys on with new water pump belt) and tried it again, Exactly the same (Goes tighter and makes a dry bearing noise).

My first thought was S**t i\'ve forgot to put the Key in the Crank for the Oil pump drive (But if i take the Pulley of the front of the engine i can see it in place. The only other thing Oil related i\'ve not checked is the OMP pump? But i can\'t see how that would make the engine go tight?

Anyway at this point i was one step of Cutting my Rists so i\'ve put it away. I\'m not sure what on earth is going on now but when it being towed (poping and Banging) there was Blue smoke coming out the back and there seems so be oil being pumped round.

Anyway what ever i\'ve missed or done i\'ve got a real Problem.

grinder

sorry to hear that chris

im sure you will get it going :D


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Grizzly

I\'m not best happy at the moment, i\'ve had problems with Rx7\'ns before but nothing this terminal that has been a result of me putting some thing back wrong or some thing like that. I really don\'t need to be taking it out and restrip it, not only do i not have the money for it right now it makes me feel sick thinking that i caused this in the first place.

The only thing i can think of that would cause an engine to Tighten up is Oil starvation but i\'ve just had a look at it and i can now turn it over by hand of the Front Pulley??