My FD won\'t start! ... :-(

Started by nikp, December 09, 2003, 08:53:38 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 0 Guests are viewing this topic.

nikp

Please help guys! I\'m not a happy bunny!
 
I thought I\'d have a whirl in the rex tonight, cos she hadn\'t been started for a while. Got in, started to smile with the knowledge that I\'d soon be having some fun again! I put the key in the ignition, turned it, and that familiar whirring began as it started up....or so I was expecting! It just kept turning over, turning over...and turning over!! I stopped after a while before it flattened the battery!
 
My guess is that there\'s no spark. Does this sound reasonable to you chaps? And in that case, that leads me to the question, does the fd have a distributor, or is it some type of DIS unit? If it has a distributr, would I be wise in concentrating in that area? (Like for example, the distributor cap - cracks, etc) If so, where is it!!!?
 
Does anyone have any other ideas?
 
Thanks for the help guys! I\'m desperate! I\'ve only had it about 2 months, I\'m hoping that I don\'t have to pay out for a big bill already!!

Shaq

im no expert but from what i have gathered you may have flooded the car.


check this thread out posted by gbutcher,
also try a search to get more info....


Starting a Flooded RX (mainly FD)
A rotary engine can become flooded. This can be caused by a number of things:

1. Engine is low on compression
2. If you move your car around without running it for long (i.e. running it for less than a few mins. each time).
3. Old/fouled spark plugs
4. Spark plugs that are too cold (see this related thread: Spark Plugs)
5. Some other problem i.e. electrical/fuel etc. (not covered in this thread)


Usual symptoms are: Car was running fine, but suddenly won\'t start, or after some time of sitting around it won\'t start. Plugs will be completely wet when you take them out.


De-flooding steps :

1. Remove the fuel pump relay (UPDATE OCT-2003: REMOVE THE MAIN EGI FUSE)...
2. Remove the spark plugs (ensuring the spark plugs leads are away from the engine)...
3. Turn the engine over with the plugs out and the accelerator peddle wide open for 10 to 15 seconds...
4. Wait 10-15 minutes and repeat step 3. Or keep repeating this step until no more fuel sprays out of the spark plug holes...
5. Remove the plugs again and squirt some engine oil into each rotor housing through the spark plug holes (this will line the rotor housing with a thin film of oil, helping the apex seal - seal against the rotor housing, hence restoring compression)...
6. Put the clean plugs/(best to have a new set if you can) back in but do not wire up the spark plug wires...
7. Either manually turn the engine over by hand (from the pulleys) or rotate the motor with the accelerator peddle wide open for 10 to 15 seconds...
8. Re-install the fuel pump relay and spark plug wires.

Try to start it.

If it starts, keep the revs up - don\'t let it die. It will probably run quite rough for a while and after 30 - 60 seconds it should run on its own.

Be patient with it, you may have to repeat some of the steps a few times.


If you are continuously having problems with flooding, then it is most probably because the Compression is low - it could be engine re-build time. Have the compression checked by a proper rotary workshop - they will use a proper Rotary Compression Tester like this one: http://www.reworx.co.uk/REWorxComp07.htm
12.7 on stock twins @ 1 bar (i reckon i can do better!)

nikp

It was running fine last sunday, and hasn\'t been used since then (7 days of non use). And the engine turns over fine. Do the symptons sound about right with that information for being a flooded engine?

Shaq

To be honest i would say it sounds like its been flooded try the steps i now its long but do this before anything....

this is what it says....

Usual symptoms are: Car was running fine, but suddenly won\'t start, or after some time of sitting around it won\'t start. Plugs will be completely wet when you take them out


what i usually do is to start the car every other day for a while if i am not driving it for a long time to prevent this.

let me know how you get on....


shaq
12.7 on stock twins @ 1 bar (i reckon i can do better!)

nikp

Ok, cheers, thanks for the info. Will give it a try, but won\'t actually be able to do it till the weekend when there\'ll be more light.

Martiny

#5
try turning it over with the pedal flat to the floor. This stops fuel pumping when its starting, and could relieve the flooding. Mine does this occasionally, and all I do is the flat foot technique and it works every time.

I am going to fit heat range 8 NGKs to alleviate the problem.

If you like, call me on 01932230163, and Ill talk you thru it .

nikp

That sounds like an easier option! i\'ll give that a crack first! Cheers!

Shaq

Martiny

what kind of number is that ?!?   :confused:    
you from abroad or something?
jus curious....

Shaq
12.7 on stock twins @ 1 bar (i reckon i can do better!)

Martiny

Ok, fixed up the phone number, some typo\'s, some spelling, and some grammar!

Happy now?     :-)))

*!!*^^!** \'ing laptop keyboards!!!!!!!!!!

Shaq

Martiny


It\'s perfect ! thanks

:p

LOL ! :)





Shaq
12.7 on stock twins @ 1 bar (i reckon i can do better!)

nikp

Well, I tried the \'foot to the floor\' starting method last night, and it almost fired (i.e it started to) but then went back to how it was previously. Presumably because the spark plugs got wet again.

I think I\'m going to have to remove the spark plugs on saturday when I have more light.

Martiny

Ok, heres what I would do next:

1) fully recharge the battery - its probably suffered a bit by now!
- or even better, can you jump start it somehow? You want a real strong spark.

2) Try the foot flat again, but when it sounds like its starting to fire, just keep the key turned to help it along a bit. Whilst its starting to fire, bring your foot back up and keep just a little bit of throttle on, keep the key turned all the time!
3) You could do this for about 3-4 seconds at a time.

repeat the above a few times.

I am pretty sure it will start up.

nikp

OK, I\'ll give that ok a go! Cheers again!

The battery is suffering a bit, but I\'m very impressed about how long it\'s lasted! I spose it doesn\'t need so much effort to turn the engine, due to there being a lot less moving parts compared to a regular engine.

airmanuk

Hi Nikp,

I had exactly the same problem with my FD this morning. Hadn\'t driven it for a week or so. My engine turned over OK, but no hint of firing.

I had a look at the handbook, and it suggested what Martin has said, ie putting accelerator to floor. I tried this twice, but without success, cranking for about 5 secs each time.

I then left if for 2 hours, did other stuff, then had a look at this forum and FDUK. Didn\'t fancy taking plugs out (don\'t think I could anyway:() so I thought I would give Martin\'s method another go. Still no joy, but then tried regular start method and the engine fired after about 4 attempts:cool

So basically, it would appear that alternating between "foot to the floor", and "foot off the accelerator" did the trick for me.

Regards

Neil Scarrow

P.S. Thanks Martin, without your post I would have given up and called the RAC. Didn\'t know that with foot to floor, no fuel is pumped in:wave

nikp

Thanks Neil.

I have given it goes with first foot to the floor, then nothing on the pedal, then foot to the floor again, with no luck. But I shall try with the extra info Martin has given today and keep my fingers crossed!

I don\'t fancy playing with the plugs either, but am starting to resign myself to having to do it!!

I hope she starts, I\'m missing her!