Headlights dont work :(

[grinder]

not had a chance to play yet - but i think you are right - this connector is a dimmer relay - so not sure what it does

i will do some more digging around to see what i can find

there must be a simple way to check if the motors are OK

Stu

[grinder]

Prof : looking at your diagram - would applying 12v to either RD or RU make the headlight motors work - or im i thinking too simple ??

[Prof]

I reckon that should work - because that\'s all the relay and the switch does inside the light switch cluster.  I haven\'t tried that on mine.  Give it a go - you shouldn\'t be able to do any harm :yes  - at least you\'ll know if the motors are working.

[grinder]

not played today with it - took the coupe out for a spin instead - although i think the heater matrix is leaking on it

[grinder]

hiya chaps

right then more progress

1 - got the power probe out - what a coooool toy
2 - had a look round the relays at the front - and go the lights to work again ( so we know bulbs are ok )
3 - put power to pin RU and the passenger side came up - but not the drivers side
4 - put power to pin RD and the light went down
5 - do this a few times with a grin on my face
6 - got out and the drivers side was now in a sleepy position ( about 1.5 inch up )
7 - try to wind it by hand and stiff as hell
8 - got a socket on the hand winder and wound it fully up
9 - sprayed it with LOADS of WD40
10 - back in the car - using pins Ru and RD - got both lights to now move up and down
11 - this proves that the motors are OK
12 - put 12v to a few more pins and got the lights to work
13 - put a switch on ... and NOTHING
14 - next switch - NOTHING
15 - next switch - NOTHING

so looked at the 3 switches i have and they are marked

M94
U18
K63

so the prob is now - which one is which and why wont none of them work

i know one is from a UK S5 as its a spare of mine , i think one is a S4 as the guy said he bought a second hand surround from a S4 and the other - is this the original one

so the prob now is - do i need a jap spec switch - and how the hell do i know which one it is ??

ideas welcomed at this point

Stu

[Grizzly]

If it helps i\'ve got a Head light Switch knocking about some where, it was working fine when i took it off but its been sat in a Draw for about 18 months. I\'ll have a look in the Morning too see what code is on it.

You can have it if you want?

BTW if the Motors Pop up Motors are tight there is a fair chance they want stripping and the Terminals inside cleaning up if not they kind of work when they want too.

[Grizzly]

Have you checked what happens to the Conections when its all conected up?

If you can pop the lights up / Turn them on and off from inside then surly its ether the Switch or Power too it?

Have you checked the Fuses:Thumbs-up

[Prof]

Stu,
 
The RD / RU pins your feeding 12v to - are they on the connector end in the car - the plug that goes into the switch ?
 
If so, then my guess is that maybe the 12V feed to the switch is dead - this is via the 30A light fuse - maybe the wire has gone ?

[Mobilemick]

Hey Stu,  was ur ears burning last night.

I ran outta petrol, Stoopid car says 1/4 tanks, but that means empty

So called out AA guy, and he got it running, and he was talking about another RX in Chorley,  and it was the same guy who came to yours

Small world  lol

Anyhow, me car still shakes at 70mph,  that stoopid beepin noise comes on at 63mph grrr.  and me fuel gauge is out  

Mick

[grinder]

AA man - not a balded headed chap called dave was it ??

and he could have meant jons ( next doors )

i dont trust my fuel gauge anyways - i work on milage

and the lights - it works fine if you apply voltage thru the block connector - just not with the switch

i can get side lights on - so this should prove that there is power to the switch and the dash lights come on - just no up or down

fuses check out fine - as they work with the power probe and so do the relays

i might get out with the old multimeter and see if there is 12v at the switch ?

Stu

( chris - yeah if you can get the code of the switch - thats great !! )

[Prof]

Stu,

BA should have 12V on it, but when you pull the 30A lights fuse it should go dead - might be worth checking that with your power probe or multimeter.

If this is good, then you\'ve got 12V going to the switch, so the problem does not lie with the wiring but the switch.


Then, if you can feed 12V to the BA pin on the switch, do the RU/RD pins get 12V alternately when you operate the headlight raise switch ?

If this doesn\'t work, then the switch is faulty - possibly burnt out track on the PCB.  If you had a short in the wiring loom, you may have \'blown\' all the switches you\'ve tested with - try removing the white plastic cover and take a look at the tracking on the PCB.

[grinder]

ahhh i see your way of thinking Dave

gonna be a squeeze with the probe , meter and half the dash in my hand - but this should narrow down a lot of probs

i will rip apart the swithces and see whats going on - we tried to check the swithces for resistance - but we couldnt get much - i cant see how we have blown up 3 switches though

stu

[Mobilemick]

Naa he was called colin.

Did you try feeding the 4 pin round connectors , see if the lights go up.

[grinder]

tried that mick - nothing happened

so no idea what that means to be honest

but everything must be working ( ish ) as i can get them to come up from the dash connector ??

Stu

[grinder]

BA - bollxs i was trying with BTN - and on that i dont actaully have a wire to BTN anyways

can anyone lend me a hand setting fire to this peice of sh1t i have on my drive way

this is the state of play

1 - block connector pin out ( as of FSM )

XX-RD-RU(PLASTIC)XX-HR-HBO
IL-BTN-TNS-E-BA-HC-DEF-TIG
( XX means no wire )

2 - what i actaully have

??-RD-RU(PLASTIC)??-HR-HBO
IL-XX-TNS-XX-BA-HC-DEF-TIG

(XX means no pin)
(?? have pin no idea what it does )

3 - what does what

IL - Dash Illumination
RD - Lights Up
RU - Lights Down ( surely D=down / U=up - but who knows ?? )
TNS - Side Lights and lights on Buzzer
HR - High Beam and indicator on dash
?? - Near HR - no idea what this does - if anything

i cant get the dim lights to work on any of the connectors - so NO IDEA why not

the lights dont pop up or down when you put full beam on - but i thought they did on a jap model - unless this is controlled by the actual switch some how ??

i dont think the FSM is helping as this is a jap spec car and could be completly different from the US/UK ones - and also would seem different from the S4 aswell

so im at a real loose with the car at the mo - as i have no idea what pins should do what and when

i can get a light switch to put the side lights on and all the dash lights up ( even the switch lights ) - so i assume that there is power somewhere - i just cant for the life of me work out why they wont pop up and down

Stu