FC Turbo doesn\'t always rev to 3000 when cold

Started by ramirez, November 07, 2006, 12:20:57 PM

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ramirez

Is this normal?

sometimes it will rev to 3000 and hold there for 15 - 20 seconds, but then othertimes when engine is definitely stone cold it just gets to 1500 rpm and sits there.

Also with regards to oil pressure, oil level is fine and engine has done 25,000 miles -  it tends to sit at around 50 - 55 lb/s under load and a little bit lower than that when idling - probably around 30.

I notice the gauge goes up to 110 lb - where does yours sit?

Grizzly

If you blip the throttle Does it drop?

I had a Sticky throttle once but that did it more when it was Hot, Kind of Scary when you throttle sticks open (got fixed very quick :yes)

Ricco_04

I had the same thing happen on my FD a few times - if it was really really really cold then it wouldn\'t do the accelerated warm up.

It did it more when it was chilly or when the car had been used & needed to be used again (ie engine still warm from last use)

Not much help to you although proves that it\'s not uncommon.

Prof

Were you in 1st gear with the clutch down ?
 
There is some defeat code in the ecu to skip the AWS - I always do this now, as I think the AWS is really bad for the engine.
 
As far as I know, it was introduced at some stage on the FC, and was carried over to the FD\'s.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


grinder

i always start mine with the clutch down - done it on every car to be honest

and like prof says - it avoids the warm up system


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Brett

When starting from cold the engine should fire, then rev up (mine used to hit around 2500) then ramp down to about 1500rpm (standard on the FC for cold idle) once the water has warmed up (about 5 mins or so) it should have slowly ramped down to around 750rpm.  If its not doing this or is sticking at high revs for longer than you like then you can just blip the throttle and it will drop to 1500.   If there is a definate fault then start looking at the BAC valve etc. :wave
Brap Brap Brap Brap

grinder

+1 for what brett says - thats what mine does if i dont use the clutch

the auto is a bit different though - i dont think it even has the AWS on it


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

ramirez

thanks chaps, what do you make of the oil pressure?

grinder

oil - errrr no idea to be honest - i have an aftermarket gauge in mine :D


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Brett

Mine used to head upwards when it was at full chat, but under normal conditions was around the 1/3 to 1/2 level on the pressure guage.
Brap Brap Brap Brap

drutin

howzit :)

dont know what uk gauge is like but jap gauge should read 2 bar at idle and 4 bar when above around 3000 rpm, if it reads under 1 bar at idle sometimes its caused by the front cover oring damaged allow oil pressure back into the sump

hope helps
later
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but if it aint a rotor it aint a motor :)

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