Handbrake at start line ?

Started by Bulla, November 03, 2006, 03:30:38 PM

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Bulla

Being a drag virgin I\'ve read a few launch guides for the strip and I wondered if anyone can explain applying the handbrake before a launch ? I know it loads up the drive train but what exactly does this mean and how does it help ? I presume once you\'ve reached the rpm your going to launch at you release the handbrake before the actual launch and not at the point of dumping the clutch ? Or am I getting the wrong idea completely ?

Ta

Bulla

travellinbob

I always thought that whilst it might help to load up the drivetrain it also stopped you from rolling a wee bit and getting a red light?
  that was why i  used to do it.  cheers, michael.

shaunwil

Your taking up the clearance in the gearbox and diff so that it doesn\'t get quite as much shockloading on it when you launch. Because you reverse into the box from the brun out and the gear teeth are sat on the wrong side.

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

travellinbob

aaagh, that makes sense! Hadnt thought about it like that before. cheers Shaun

shaunwil

I think thats what somebody else said, but if your not really doing a monster burnout and you roll forward into staging then im not sure if it actually makes any difference.

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

Warthog

All above---- + --- you use the handbrake just as if you are doing a hill start so you will be easing the clutch up as you wait for the lights to change. You have done it a thousand times on the road at lights etc when you want to get the drop on someone at the lights. It\'s just the same, except this time you are going for wide open throttle and into 2nd etc etc. The loading of the drive train is also important as it stops/helps to stop your diff from exploding with all the power on launch. HTH.:wiggle
I\'M ALWAYS IN THE SH*T IT\'S JUST THE DEPTH THAT MAY VARY.

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Bulla

Thanks for all the replies, fully understand now ! :Hammer

grinder

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Grizzly

I have heard all sorts of reasons why you hold on the Handbrake, But if you have ever tried it (hold the revs high, slip the Clutch bit like a Hill start and hold the Handbrake on with the Botton In then Let the Brake off,Drop the clutch,Floor it all at the same time) If you master this there is no way you can get off the Line quicker by just droping the Clutch and flooring it.

I always thought it was a Ilusion where you think your Getting off the line quicker, But its not!! Pre loading does work (Try it at some Traffic lights)

TRex

:rolleyes:

 I thought this was for \'Auto Trannys\'????
 As far as I know it\'s called \'Brake Torquing\' and it\'s for exactly that, preloads the entire drivetrain as the Auto tranny has a lot of drive train take up!  
 Can\'t see why it would be needed on a Manual?

 Think about the difference in dyno wheel conversions for Auto\'s and Manuals. :Thumbs-up

 Althought I can see what you are saying Grizzly, but thats not really for \'preloading is it\',  pulling the Handbrake is for finding the \'sweet spot\' of where your clutch starts to slip without moving the car and breaking the beam!
 Example... On launch, Let the clutch out until right before the clutch catches and hold the car on the line with your parking brake so you don\'t creep while finding the right pedal spot.

 Please correct me if I am wrong! :Thumbs-up
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Warthog

There are times when reality is what it is and theory, is just that theory.
I\'M ALWAYS IN THE SH*T IT\'S JUST THE DEPTH THAT MAY VARY.

Project Evil seven.:evillaugh

RE:WORX---13b RE engine, Motec M400 Pro ECU, Os Giken 5 speed internals-Gearbox, HKS T51R KAI turbo, With 575 @ Fly, 487.9 @ Wheels @ 1.3bar 420 ftlbs, on PUMP FUEL Sheel V-Power. BUILT & TUNED BY RE:WORX. More work planned..:InLove

REW, Stock Twins, RE:WORX-- British Record, 389.2 @ Wheels -- 03/09/2005.

Grizzly

#11
Ok, I asked a mate who is a big Drag racer in the US, He says its mainly a Mith but holding a car on its sweet spot helps you not to Over do it off the line kind of like slipping the clutch on a Hill start (If you just try to drive of you\'ll get wheel spin) it also keeps the car still on the line. But if you where to do that on a Big hp car it would Kill the Clutch in a cuple of runs.

I was also told that the idea after a Burn out is to Reverse too far back and drive back upto the Line (becouse a powerfull car will as Shaun says Shock the Box and drive)

My mate also said something intresting, To get good reaction time you have to reduce the amount of time it takes for you to start the Prosses to the car to start moving if the Slack in the Drive is taken up and the Car is in the Sweet spot (turbo\'s on the Verge of spooling etc) it can only help.

TRex

So does that mean I am right then... ;)
.
TRex the Ecowarrior - Recycling exhaust gas and using it to create energy. Just doing my bit

BlitzBoy

I use the handbrake to stop me creeping over the line and it helps me to keeps the revs correct on the sweet spot and the clutch is right on the biting point, Ive hit 1.7 60fts with this even a 1.6
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Jonathan_F

Plus if your loading the engine the turbo\'s will be spooling up which helps avoid bogging/better launch.