My Winter Project

[Prof]

Superb dave, top job and in a relatively short time as well. Hopefully all should be spot on for the JAE Finale. You may even see a glimpse of my orang car by then as well.
Is the oil going through the OMP adapter yet? you could give it some pressure to aid it along? I am now double thinking on my hoses I made as Furb had issues with his ging to soft so I will pre-mix for a while until I am happy with the hoses and oil supply. Nice pics by the way and looks so much different.......almost like a new engine !!! lol

I put some premix in with the first fill of petrol - as I could see the old oil in the metering lines with plenty of air bubbles in between them - it\'s now all been replaced by 2 stroke - and the catch tank I\'m using is now down to 1/3 full after a round trip to Bedford (85 miles) then to Mersea island via Bury St Edmunds (don\'t ask) which was about another 100 - so about 370 miles and at least 2 tanks of petrol.  1 can of 2 stroke will fill the catch tank twice easily.  Rough calculations - guess what - it\'s about 1L every 1000 miles - now what does that figure remind you of

[antnicuk]

well done dave, good work.   I had exactly the same, in my keeness to viddeo the starting of the new engine in the kit car i forgot to shut my front door, there was so much smoke i set my smoke alarm upstairs off.  But its on Youtube tube now! along with the first drive!  just got to run it in now, at least you dont have to do that!

[pdtaylor18]

I am going Microtech now so my bay should be pretty clean........ now wheres that manual ?

[pdtaylor18]

Are you not getting rid of the AWS, took mine off and dont miss it one bit. It still gets a good high idle at start until its warm.

[Prof]

Are you not getting rid of the AWS, took mine off and dont miss it one bit. It still gets a good high idle at start until its warm.

Maybe
 
I have a drop in idle revs when the electric fan kicks in - if I can get the BAC to correct for it, and the power steering, then the AWS solenoid can go.  It\'s sister solenoid - the Air Supply Valve (the one on the back of the UIM near the throttle body) is blanked off, but I retained this one as the stock ECU feeds both the ASV and it with current to both correct for PS load and perform the Accelerated warm up.  My chipped ECU defeats the AWS in any case, so I don\'t have that crazy revving when I start the car.  I may drop it - need to see how much it effects revs when the power steering is operated.

[grinder]

thats a nice IC you have there

[Prof]

Heads up on what I did remove from the \'vac\' rack that sits on top of the engine and under the UIM / throttle body / intercooler:
 
In actual fact, because I used braided lines direct to the primary and secondary fuel rails, the only hard line I retained from the original rack was the oil feed to the turbo !
 
All 4 solenoids that sit under the oil filler pipe are gone - the twin scroll wasn\'t used and it\'s lines were already blanked off.  The 2 solenoids that operate the vacuum feeds to the Air Control Valve were redundant, as I\'d got rid of the ACV on the last rebuild - so they are gone.  Final solenoid was the PRC valve - it\'s function is to hold fuel pressure higher during a warm start - to prevent fuel percolation.  Since I run higher than stock fuel pressure courtesy of the walbro pump, this solenoid isn\'t really doing anything anymore - so it\'s gone.
 
On a stock Series 5 there is also a 5th solenoid on the oil filler pipe itself - this is the Boost Control Solenoid - that was eliminated at the last rebuild, as I have an aftermarket boost controller.
 
I plan to install 5 27 ohm resistors (ally clad power types) to prevent the stock ECU from reporting error codes for them - although strictly there absence does not cause any change in operation of the ECU.
 
I retained the Crank Case Emissions stuff - but replaced the hard lines in the vac rack with silicon/rubber pipes.
 
I used silicon pipe from the charcoal can and top of the oil neck - tee\'d together and then fed to the one way valve and into the turbo inlet duct.
 
I used a rubber line from the lower oil neck line, fed into the Purge Control Valve (PCV), and fed the other 2 ports of the PCV with silicon pipes taken from the lower 2 vac nipples on the throttle body.  The top most one on the front of the engine is capped off.
 
On the back of the throttle body, I retained all the original rubber lines - they feed the 2 injector breathers, and the vac spider for the oil injectors.  The lowest line is for the wax thermo valve - that was retained.
 
The final change under the UIM was to take a vac feed off the nipple that comes out sideways on the LIM and it was fed directly to the Fuel Pressure Regulator - instead of routing through the hard lines to the PRC valve.
 
All in all, the plumbing is greatly simplified, and access to the pipe ends is now possible.

[pdtaylor18]

That intercooler fits rather well, what make is that?

[Prof]

That intercooler fits rather well, what make is that?

It\'s an ARC intercooler - although the old core was breached (that sounded a bit star trek), and although I repaired it with ally solder, I was never happy with the repair and got it recored by Pace.  It\'s supposed to be a stock fit, but you need either a greddy tube or ARC\'s own throttle inlet tube as the outlet of the intercooler is in the centre.
 
The intercooler is supposed to be good for over 1 Bar, whereas the old one wouldn\'t work beyond 12 psi (0.7 Bar), and capable of high 300\'s in terms of horse power.  Should see me to 300 RWHP with the addition of water cooling/injection.

[Prof]

Well I found the problem - chuffing secondary injector is pi$$ing fuel like mad !
 
It means the rear rotor just floods straight away, and the front rotor isn\'t getting any fuel pressure because of the leak.
 
Need to source a pair of decent secondary\'s - either 800\'s (ideally) or 1000cc jobbies - High impedance top feed.  Either that or chuck my old 550 secondaries back in - although one of those is suspect and may have been the reason the other engine died.
 
My radiator finally failed - it had no less than 8 holes - covered up by crap which I very gently removed (trying to be tidy) - that then exposed the weaker surface to the air - and it didn\'t take the hot coolant long to breach - all the leaks are small - but the net effect means the old rad is getting junked.  New rad is in - but the hoses don\'t fit - top one I can cut to length, but the bottom hose is 2" too short - I\'ve ordered some superflex 38mm hose to sort that problem out.
 
Also managed to break the UIM/LIM gasket trying to get a water hose off the back of the throttle body - it\'s no wonder people eliminate the warmup stuff off the throttle body.
 
Electric fan is going to be rewired to run from the battery via a heavy duty relay - the inrush current is too much for blade fuses and I think circuit breakers - so going to consider a soft start circuit - ramp up the fan speed using pwm pulses - sounds like a job for either a switch mode IC or a 555 timer chip and a big gnarly mosfet.
 
Be a few more days off the road, but hopefully the teething problems are getting sorted now.

[L18M]

how much bhp is ur fc giving u now..?

[Prof]

how much bhp is ur fc giving u now..?

0 at the mo :2Rolleyes
 
But soon....

[antnicuk]

are you still running the stock turbo?

[clive]

Well done Dave and all involved with this thread it\'s been great to see all this interaction between you all :cheers

[Prof]

are you still running the stock turbo?

No - tis a Hybrid - stock back end with ported wastegates, spacer to allow wastegate flap to open fully and modified actuator bracket.  CHRA has been rebuilt with 360 thrust bearings and new seals, and the front end is a Garret T04B compressor with 0.7 A/R.  The whole shabang was balanced and tested professionally.
 
Clive - tis great to get help and advice on the forum - I think it\'s the only thing that\'s stopped me going bezerk and taking a big hammer to the car :Hammer