My Winter Project

[antnicuk]

dave,   its a b1tch to do the front oil pipe and is always tight,   you need a smaller spanner on the union closest to the engine,  then the bigger spanner on the oil line and you need to undo it anticlockwise. Make sure the spanners are the exact size or they will slip, It will be tight,  I loosened mine tonoght and it was tight and its only been on there 2 weeks!

[Prof]

dave, its a b1tch to do the front oil pipe and is always tight, you need a smaller spanner on the union closest to the engine, then the bigger spanner on the oil line and you need to undo it anticlockwise. Make sure the spanners are the exact size or they will slip, It will be tight, I loosened mine tonoght and it was tight and its only been on there 2 weeks!

It IS tight ! - I\'ve removed the lines at the oil cooler for now .  stupid question - but do I try and hold the smaller nut still whilst rotating the bigger one anticlockwise - seemed to make sense when I visualised it undoing in my mind ?
 
I\'ve also taken a look at all those vac lines and stuff that hide under the intercooler - would be really nice if most of that didn\'t go back on.  I reckon I only need the Purge Control Valve, the other vent line/tee from the charcoal canister, the water or oil line for the turbo - can\'t remember which it was - oil I think, and the fuel lines - for those I might just go with braided lines direct to the 2 rails - unless the fuel needs pre heating by the top of the engine first ?
 
Thinking of doing Viton lines on the undeside of the UIM, and for the oil line off the oil neck - as hot oil kills silicon, then use silicon for the rest of the remaining vac lines (not many).

[antnicuk]

if you are standing on the passenger side looking at the plugs side of the engine,  you need to undo the bigger union anticlockwise,  while holding the small one to stop it undoing.

not sure about your engine management but i dont run any of the extra stuff.  The only lines under my plenum are the fuel lines and turbo.  (the water lines are by the lower inlet manifold)  I have a vacume line to the 2ndary injectors and one to the FPR and thats it.

[pdtaylor18]

Dave, I thougt that the purge valve can go, done that on mine after we discussed this in my thread. Sure we said that can go to the catch tank.  Its job is to regulate the evaporative fumes from gas tank and canister to intake manifold. So in my book going to catch tank is just as good.  I too when i first came across this had difficulty in where to place this with my new inlet compression tube, first I just lengthened all the tubing and then I just got rid of it and will use the catch tank, making sure its got a filter of some sort to atmosphere.
In my Mazda workshop manual the green connector is the Twin Scroll turbo solonoid valve.

[Prof]

Bit of an update on this one.  Went to pickup Ben\'s engine on Thursday - nice day for a van ride in the Cotswolds
 
Got the engine, gearbox and some stuff for Mitch who\'s coming on Sunday to help put the new engine in (hopefully).
 
So I\'ve spent today putting it back together ready to go in the car.
 
Morning started with getting the gearbox out - that was fun - needed Eileen\'s help to move the engine crane, whilst I man handled it out of the engine bay - they are just about liftable those gearboxes. :Nono!
 
Stripped all the stuff off the old block that I needed, and detached the turbo oil feed line from the rats nest - as none of that is going back on the car
 
Also fitted my OMP adaptor - and there lies the rub  Seems my turbo oil return line isn\'t long enough  If I can\'t fathom out how to mod something up to get it to fit, then I\'m taking the OMP adapator off for the time being whilst I get a pipe piece made up.  Any ideas greatly appreciated.  The last pic shows the problem !

[pdtaylor18]

Simple Dave, cut the end of the engine end flange of the pipe and weld an extended pipe portion in and then reweld the flange on. I will have to do this anyway cos my turbo is on a stainless manifold let alone with my OMP adapter as well. I will see if i have the right sized pipe, in stainless of course.  If you want you can use a rubber sleeve to bridge it but welded pipe would be better if you can.

After the trouible to go and get the OMP adapter at least fit it and worry about the rest later, thats unless you are in a rush with the car.

[Prof]

Simple Dave, cut the end of the engine end flange of the pipe and weld an extended pipe portion in and then reweld the flange on. I will have to do this anyway cos my turbo is on a stainless manifold let alone with my OMP adapter as well. I will see if i have the right sized pipe, in stainless of course. If you want you can use a rubber sleeve to bridge it but welded pipe would be better if you can.
 
After the trouible to go and get the OMP adapter at least fit it and worry about the rest later, thats unless you are in a rush with the car.

Yeh - bit of a rush - really want to have it ready for JAE next weekend - we are out tomorrow, and I\'m working on putting the engine back in tomorrow - and re hosing / wiring up on the Bank Holiday - I\'ve also got Wednesday off work in case it\'s not ready - and we go on Thursday.
 
so close I can almost smell it running :rollin

[Prof]

ok - got the engine and gearbox in - we had to dismantle the exhaust system and remove the prop shaft to get the geabox in - but problem now is getting the prop shaft back on - haynes guide is a pile of poo - no help at all !
 
One question - is there any difference in the drive train for a coupe verses a convertible ?
 
Can\'t figure out how to get the prop shaft back on

[grinder]

prop shaft is the same , im sure

slide it into the back of the box - do up the 4 nuts on the diff

[Brett]

They should be the same - did you mark up the prop shaft before you removed it?

[Prof]

Yeah - discovered the problem - the sleeve on the end of the prop shaft was flatted on one side - so it wasn\'t going the whole way over the prop shaft - once we\'d figured that out - and after having lifted the engine unecessarily and struggling to get that back in again - we finally managed it.

So drive train is all in - save for the gear selector and topping up the gearbox oil - engine is in but needs nuts on the engine mounts - now we\'ve got to put the heat shielding back on, and the exhaust system.

Then it\'s all pipes and wires

[Brett]

Ah - just the awkward bits to go then!

[BenLewisMav]

A pry bar and some wiggling! That\'s it short of loosening the diff mounts... It\'s a lot of effort, maybe more than its worth. Helps if you dont have the gearbox and engine mounts done up.
 
edit. Oh you\'ve done it.

[grinder]

speedy work prof - i like it

[G@NDY]

What are you planning to do with the old block? im looking for one to do up and use as a spare