New toy WILL play :-D

[alban1973]

offer still stands stuart!!

[grinder]

tony - not had much contact off mick - i assume he is busy  - and the lights - thats also a strange one !!

Alan - yeah i know matey - not as if you are around the corner though

pity its not summer - it would be light now and i would beable to play with it

stu

[Grizzly]

Stu, What sort of Charger did you Juice up the Battery with? I\'ve seen cars before now where people have not disconected the earth before charging and its  screwed up the ECU. If its a Trickle Charger putting less than 4 amps in you\'ll be ok but leaving it on more than a few hours at say 8 may cause damage.

[Grizzly]

I know this is kind of grasping at straws but is there much fuel being returned to the tank when you turn it over? I\'m just thinking if some thing like the Fuel reg stuck it would cause it to WAY!!! over fuel?

Also was\'nt this the car that had some of the dash out? I admit i had my T2 running with no Dash or clocks in but i can\'t remember if there was any Earths etc that had to be conected behind there?

[grinder]

i think its only a 4amp charger to be honest - it was a cheapo nasty one - hence it being on for soooo long

i dont think any fuel is being returned to be honest - fuel guage has gone down - but i cant be sure of this

where is the fuel reg ??  and would it cause the non starting - clicking etc...

and when i say dash - its the surround for the dash ( lights , cruise , indicators etc.. )

the clocks are still in

Stu

[Grizzly]

ok, TBH i don\'t think the reg would cause the clicking and it sounds like there is not enough of the dash out to cause a problem there.

So i\'d be looking at the relays and finding out exactly what they are and where they get there signal from, may even be worth getting some jump leads and conect one from the Neg to the engine and the other from the neg to the Body so there is a proper good earth to work from.

I\'d also be tempted to put the dash back together or at least plug every thing in so there is nothing thats unplugged.

Also when you say there is loads of clicking where abouts is it coming from? Have you tried unplugging and plugging it back in a few times to clean the conections or even swap them one at a time with your other car (posably a bad relay???)

[grinder]

hiya chris

i have put a huge earth lead from the battery to the body

i put a set of jumpleads on the neg battery post and went round the engine - again to check earths - this did nothing

the relays - best i can find out it

1 - the air con one
2 - the one under the battery box
3 - one under the steering wheel
4 - and the injectors seem to be going mad

all these goes loverly and quiet when you take the EGI fuse out though - so its DEFO that area thats faulty

its the clicking that my main concern - if i can stop that - then i have a chance of starting her - i just really dont know where to look next

and im not sure if a failing sensor would cause this

i might unplug the TPS and CAS and see if that stops it ( might disconnect the fuel pump aswell .. if i can find the damn wire )

at least if its gonna click im not dumping fuel everywhere

car is just in a bad place to work on at the mo - and its too heavy to push around !! LOL

i unplugged the aircon relay and it something was still clicking , unplugged the one under the air box ( bolted behind the light ) - still clicking - removed the one under the steering wheel - it still clicked

now doing loads of reading about this - there isnt much left of the EGI side of stuff

Stu

[grinder]

its got to be something in this list that throwing its dummy out the pram !!

crank angle sensor
throttle position sensor (TPS)
water thermo sensor
water temperature sensor
intake air temperature sensor
power steering sensor switch
the air conditioner relay
the initial set coupler

or then there is this aswell :

3. Turn off the ignition. Remove the connector from the BAC valve and check the resistance of the BAC valve solenoid. This is done by connecting an ohm-meter across the BAC valve terminals. Care must be taken not to let the probes touch each other or you will get a false reading. You should get somewhere between 10 and 20 ohms. The manual says 10.7 to 12.3 ohms, but it\'s really not that picky. What you don\'t want is near zero ohms (solenoid is shorted) or very high resistance (solenoid is open-circuit.) If you have a shorted or open-circuit solenoid, you will need to replace the BAC valve. You might want to try disassembling it just on the off chance that it is repairable.

4. With the connector still removed, and the engine still off, place a 10k ohm, 1/4 watt resistor across the terminals of the connector. This is easy to do, simply insert the resistor leads into the connector. Make sure that the leads of the resistor do not short against each other or anything else. Turn the ignition on, without starting the car, and measure the AC voltage across the resistor. You should get a value between 6 and 7 volts after it settles down. A voltage lower than 5V indicates a likely ECU failure. Go here for more information. If you get the correct voltage, move on to the next step.

soo many things - sooo little time LOL

Stu

[Prof]

Stu - what model year is this car ?
 
Pre 89 or a later one ?
 
I can have a look at the circuits in both new and old versions pdf\'s that I have, and give you a point by point flow from the EGI fuse to wherever that supply ends up (ECU, injector harness and fuel pump - I believe)
 
From memory, you have the main relay - metal can one near the bulkhead, a circuit opening relay under the steering wheel - this disables the fuel pump, so if it\'s clicking then the interlock switch on the gearbox is faulty or the car is not quite in or out of drive - yours is an Auto I believe)  The relay under the Airbox is fed from this one, and that controls the fuel pump resistor - in or out of circuit.  On earlier models there was also a switch in the MAF sensor that disabled the fuel pump if the car was turned over - depends on the shape of air meter you have - round one is later one without the switch, square boxy one is earlier model.
 
When cranking, only the primary injectors should fire, the secondaries are only used under load or when accelerating hard - If both sets are firing then you have a faulty ECU.  You could connect a low wattage 12v bulb or LED and series resistor (680 Ohms) in place of the injector to tell you if they are firing.  The secondaries are the ones directly under the UIM, the primaries are the lower ones and are much closer together.
 
Bit more info for you....

[grinder]

blody hell prof - im impressed

its a 1991 model

and too be honest - sounds like both are firing - you can feel the secondary fuel rail vibrating - so that would sugges that the injectors are working over time

i suppose if it is the ECU then that would explain a lot of thing - just need to work out what it is

if you can get me a step by step guide of what fires - then surely disconnecting the first item should stop the rest ??

this is one hell of a fault finding process

someone did suggest the ECU - and i know sadgoth has a spare working one - so might have to give him a shout - like i said - just need to work out what ECU is in the thing - as i have been told that although is a 1991 - it could be running a S4 ecu - as its a jap import ??

keep up the ideas prof ...

Stu

[sadgoth]

think it will be an S5 ECU, just not sure if the Auto has a specific ECU or not?

[grinder]

yeah the problem mark - neither do i

and the car is parked close up against the fence ( passenger side ) - so cant get to the ECU - YET !!!!!!!!!!

[Prof]

The ECU\'s themselves are actually fairly similar across types - I have an EGI one from an S4 or S5 - can\'t remember model, but I think it was an S4, and compared with my old TII one (S5) and the component placement is identical.  What differs is the ROM, and on the S4 I think there was an additional off board Jetronic controller box that manages the EFI stuff in conjuction with the ECU.

An S5 ECU would therefore work, but would probably require the ROM be swapped (not an easy job, as it\'s not socketed).  Can be done by somebody with a desoldering station and a lot of patience.  You can cut the old chip out, by snipping the legs, and then put a socket in, and replace the ROM, but we would need the ROM from the correct ECU - yours would probably be ok, even if the ECU failed, but getting it out cleanly is the issue.

[grinder]

thanks prof - im just hoping that it will be plug and run to be honest !!

just need to find out exactly whats in mine - then go on the hunt ( if this is the cause ) ??

[sadgoth]

see here may help you id your ECU http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/ecutype.html