New toy WILL play :-D

[abmunro]

This is what I\'m thinking of replacing RX7 with

http://www.pantherclub.co.uk/Georges/red%20solo/red%20solo.htm

[grinder]

looks nice tony

plugs are firing - i checked these - its the relays clicking thats getting annoying now


compression sounds fine - nice and and loud

white smoke - errr dont think so - lots of fuel came out .... not sure if thats a good sign or not

can you tow start and auto though ??

Stu

[abmunro]

No Dont try tow a auto

[grinder]

spent another 4 hrs just now in it

1 - still got the stupid clicking
2 - its defo the round relay at the front - removed this and its all still clicking
3 - removed the air box
4 - another relay under there is clicking - so removed that
5 - got under the dash - removed the relay under there - still all clicking
6 - sounds like every click is firing the injectors - so this is causing the flooding no doubt
7 - you can smell the fuel from miles away
8 - put it all back together - still all clicking
9 - remove the EGI fuse - clicking stops
10 - put that back in - remove the engine fuse - clicking stop

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ... how the hell can i trace this ?

11 - head lights wont go up or down either - this is a seperate issue though ( although still annoying )

next plan - gallon of petrol and a match

giving up now - spent tooo long and getting no where

Stu

[sadgoth]

how good are the plugs Stu?

[grinder]

they dont look tooo bad to be honest

i really want the clicking to stop before i try and start it again

as soon as you go to start the car all the clicking starts - its just like the injectors think its running and start firing - although its very loud

i even put a massive wire in to earth the battery better - this hasnt helped either

really getting on my tits now to be honest ... there is no end in sight

im happy with mechanical things - just electrics - i have no idea

Stu

[Grizzly]

11, will be a ither the Motors sticking or The Motor Relay on the front panel.

[grinder]

yeah probably - not bothered about them to be honest

i want the car to run !!

need to get the turbo timer out to narrow down the probs - its just not looking simple

MobileMick - is this something you could remove

[Prof]

2 - its defo the round relay at the front - removed this and its all still clicking

If you took that one out and it\'s still doing it, probably not anything to do with the problem Stu - leave it out, I think the round relay is for aircon system anyway, and you don\'t need to worry about that
 

3 - removed the air box
4 - another relay under there is clicking - so removed that

Ok - the relay under the airbox switches the fuel pump resistor in and out of circuit. During cranking / acceleration, this relay short circuits the resistor that is in series with the fuel pump so that the pump sees 12v and not the 9v it would normally see. When at idle / decellerating this relay is out of circuit and the resistor is in series - reducing the fuel flow to the engine as it\'s not needed. You might want to plug that one back in.
 

6 - sounds like every click is firing the injectors - so this is causing the flooding no doubt
7 - you can smell the fuel from miles away
8 - put it all back together - still all clicking
9 - remove the EGI fuse - clicking stops
10 - put that back in - remove the engine fuse - clicking stop

Maybe it\'s the injectors clicking - if so, then they are being instructed by the ECU to provide fuel - seems as if the ECU is getting signals from TPS (throttle position), Boost sensor and maybe others to say fuel required.
 
I would run through some checks on all the sensors, check the TPS - should find a link on here how to set that up - need a pair of bulbs or a multimeter for that job, check all the fuses are good for ECU - check that the turbo timer isn\'t mucking about with the +ve supply lines to the ECU / injector harness etc.

[Mobilemick]

My tubo timer has a plug halfway along ,which i could disconnect,

i can disco urs no problem,

i know i said it before, but, i`m 99% sure it will be losing a earth to relays,

Reading manual  lol

[grinder]

mick

how much are we looking at for you to come and have a nosey for an hour

once i hear the car run i will be a happy bunny - im sure i can sort everything else out

i need someone with electrical now-how

i have the steering wheel coloumn ( sp ) in peices at the mo ,so all the wires are infront of you

it might only take you 10-15 mins - where as me - i could be looking at HOURS

you got an email addy so that i can mail you - or you can mail me chojin22 ( at ) yahoo.com

Stu

[FLAT4MATT]

He could fix yours then come round to mine

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=282573

[grinder]

no idea what to do with this one to be honest - im at a loose end and no idea what to do ... to make it worse im skint as hell

gonna set a time limit - and if it wont play i will move it on or break it for spares

was all excited about this car - now i just want to torch the thing

the other cab had a shot engine - and i got that running - this thing .. not a cat in hells change and slowly filling the sump with petrol

i cant get my mind off it , but cant think of a possible solution - got all the dash in peices with about 300 wires of god knows what - i have no where to start and no idea what to do

i would rather rebuild a engine that do this - at least there is a procedure for that

this is just a mine field

really ****ed off to be honest

Stu

[Prof]

Stu - going back to your earlier post about 3/4 round pipe - this is the secondary fuel rail.  If you hear clicking from here - make sure it\'s not from the BAC valve (on the outside - UIM) or the ACV (attached to LIM), as these also both have solenoid valves in them.
 
I think Mobile Mick is right - sounds like earthing problem or bad wiring somewhere in the looms.  Also fits in with the lights not working etc..
 
With leccy problems you have to attack them a bit at a time.  The pdf service manual and haynes guide have some good step by step instructions for testing each and every part that could be giving you problems - from relays and solenoids valves to the sensors themselves.
 
You want to try and eliminate as much of the circuitry that you can that has nothing to do with the engine management or making the engine run.  HiFi, Logicon, lights, Air Con, hood mechanism, turbo timer - take the fuses out for these, and for the turbo timer, bypass the wiring so that the original loom routing is restored.  Unplug and replug all the connectors to every thing in the engine bay, and also the ECU connector plugs - making sure there are no corroded connectors on any of them.
 
Check lambda sensor, temp sensors (water and intake air), and the 2 sensors on the inlet near the air filter.  Check that each relay operates when supplied with 12v, and ditto for the solenoid valves - you should hear a postive tick when applying 12v on the terminals.  Beyond that can\'t help much more from here
 
Hope you get it started chap :yes

[grinder]

i have checked what i can - and most of it seems OK to be honest

its just like the car thinks that its running - but it isnt

need to check the crank angle sensor thingy to make sure thats ok

everything seems to be OK and everything is in night and tight

might need to check the ECU - that could be fun - car not in the best place for this

i know what you mean about getting the wiring back to stock - there is just that much of it - i dont know whats orig and whats extra ( turbo timer and cat1 alarm )

certainly a puzzler - im now at the point of cant stop thinking about it - and i can now smell the fuel in the house - must be loads of it ( somewhere !! )

humm the plot thickens

Stu