New toy WILL play :-D

Started by grinder, September 18, 2006, 10:04:21 PM

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Mobilemick

Oil filter saying japan on it, i gathered its been on a while.
My plugs are BUR 7 EQ.  or should i put 9`s in it

were u get ur parts from, our local shop strugglin to find anything cos its a import

Mick

grinder

hiya matey - parts ...err WGT or Mazda :D

depends on what you want - oil filter from anywhere ( even halfords )

i think it should run 7 and 9\'s to be honest - just on the hunt for info now :D

and plug wire link : http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30007


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sadgoth

I\'ve got 10s in the leading and 11s in the trailing :)

(but that\'s me)

7s are better if you have problems starting from cold
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

Mobilemick

""1985 - 1988
Trailing ( Top ) - SD11A
Leading ( Lower ) - SD10A""

So i`ll get some 10,s 11,s

Are you crazy, took andrew pages 2hrs to find the BUR7EQ plugs  and then said he could only find the 9`s,  cant see any hope of em finding them   lol

think i`ll just stick 4, 9`s in  lol

grinder

thats what the mazda book says - and yeah im not sure about it either !!

ideally you want 7 & 9\'s failing that 9\'s alround :D


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

antnicuk

most people with stock engines will run 9\'s all round, that fine.
10 & 11\'s are only needed for higher boost, you will only run into problems if you use them on a stock engine.

As for leads, its a dodle,  T= Trailing which go at the Top, L = leading or lower.  1 is the front plug, and the rear is the 2.  The front plug leads will have a little white piece of tape around the end of the lead.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


antnicuk

most people with stock engines will run 9\'s all round, that fine.
10 & 11\'s are only needed for higher boost, you will only run into problems if you use them on a stock engine.

As for leads, its a dodle,  T= Trailing which go at the Top, L = leading or lower.  1 is the front plug, and the rear is the 2.  The front plug leads will have a little white piece of tape around the end of the lead.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


alban1973

Dont give up stu, there is plenty of help around, sort that relay prob and I think you will be half way there..........Find if you can pull any codes from the ecu, anyone have the conection proceedure for this from the diagnostic\'s plug, my autodate code book is too new for that model...or any rx7\'s infact..
1982 Elford turbo
Jaguar sovereign 4.0
citroen Xantia 1.9td
Mazda 626 2.2 4wd
Some Vans

grinder

great jap fuse box lid :(

found a UK one on here ( will copy into the FAQ once i have chance ! ) - gonna randomly check some now :D

giving up in the next 20 mins though ... bloody thing :(

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

grinder

right then - gonna try and get all the info i have into this post

1 - i have tried to start the car and it still wont run
2 - remove a plug and i can confirm a spark
3 - tried it again - still wont run
4 - looks flooded AGAIN :(
5 - still have 3 selanoids going mad ( alan suggests fixing this first )
6 - noticed that the clock doesnt work on the dash
7 - radio wont work either
8 - windows work
9 - not checked the mirrors
10 - head rest speaker switch wont work either
11 - check about 10 of the internal fuses - only one dead was CIGAR - changed this - non of the above work
12 - head lights wont go up or down ( even on the maintenance switch )
13 - cruse lights up ok - cant check though !!
14 - not tried the wipers
15 - roof looks to work - it beeps when you move the switch
16 - if you remove the EGI fuse - there is no clicking noises

now im at a bit of a loss - as i dont have a clue about electrics :( ( ooohhh mick where are you !! LOL :D )

all this seems to hinge on the fact that tony had the car running , reved it and it cut out ...

the engine turns OK - so what would cause it to stop like this ??

is there any obvious things i need to check .. is there a main relay pack that does stuff ??

looks like a round selanoid on the front bar is doing a lot of the clicking - but cant figure out what it actually does ??

it looks like it hinges on point 16 to be honest - why does the EGI fuse make every thing quiet ??? what does this actually do ??

gonna go to bed soon and cry :(

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

antnicuk

one of the clicking will be the fuel pump relay and posibbly another for the injectors and another for the duty solanoid.  When you say clicking like mad, do you mean constantly clicking or just click once when you turn on the
igniion.

I think its gonna be a case of systamatically going through things.

Now, it seems that that you have fuel as your plugs are getting wet, but i would check that the fuel pump is running when you are cranking,  take the cover in the boot off and get someone to have a listen or better still, remover the fuel line where it joins the block just next to the oil filter.  Point it somewhere safe and turn the engine over, you should have fuel gushing out.

The next thing is to check the spark.  You need to put a spark plug in the end of the HT lead, touch the body of the plug to an earch, and turn the engine over again (might want to remove the egi fuse for this)   you should have a nice bright blue spark, if its a dim orange, you dont have enough and may want to change the plugs.

apart from that and some really good cranking power, you should be on ya way.

Good cranking is even more important in view of the fact that its been flooded.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


grinder

hiya matey

right then ....

1 - when i say clicking i mean .. "click , click , click , click , get out of car .. still clicking like mad , have a fag , yup still clicking , make a brew..still clicking " LOL you get the picture .. so yeah continously clicking ( it seems like there is one on the front bar ( a round one ) , one behind the alternator and cant work out where the other one is )
2 - if you crank the car at this point - then they stop
3 - turn car off and on - and they go mad again
4 - i think the fuel is ok and its priming OK as i can hear it
5 - spark - yeah took out plug attached it to the lead - lent it against the bonnet stay and you can see the spark from 6 foot away - so thats OK ( i think )

all the clicking stops when you take out the EGI fuse

its that bad , i phoned Alan and brett and let them listen to it :D

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

abmunro

#72
Stu

The stereo was working the day before you came as I removed the cd\'s from the changer on the saturday morning.


Maybe something to do with the alarm.

I hope you get it started soon as I am going to stop using this site when yo do..
I thought it would be running now

Prof

Round one is aircon relay I think - and there are more than one of them dotted about in there - so could be the aircon circuits are bad - if you can disable it from in the car, then try that.
 
The aircon system is defeated during cranking and for 7 seconds after starting to aid the startup, which would explain why the relays stop chattering.  There should be a fuse which controls all the aircon - take that out and see if that shuts up some of the relays.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Mobilemick

Still say u got a dodgy earth somewhere,  maybe after u refitted the battery

If it aint running by thursday night,  i`ll nip up friday and have a look for ya