New toy WILL play :-D

[Mobilemick]

I unplugged loads of relays. etc, from under bonnet, and couldnt get me ECU to click,

Still say you`ve a earth loose somewhere,

If it says its 12v then 9 volts is no good,  wiggle the wire see if volts go up

Mick

[Brett]

Removing the ECU would stop all the clicking Stu, IIRC the ECU is is actually making the 0V contact to activate the realys, so no ECU = no circuit!

[grinder]

hummmm so any ideas then ??

or do we just start chasing wires around ??

we will try the wire wiggling tonight - just not the easiest thing to do

and i cant think which one was goiving us 9v .... hang on

its the ignition switch - it says i should get 12v at cranking - and we was only getting 9.xxV - so how do i make that get to 12v ??

and thats about as far as we got

and Mick - thats interesting - so by unpluggin stuff it wont click - so why does mine then ??!?!

could the ECU still be faulty ?

Stu

[Prof]

Another possibility is that the 12v power feed to the ECU is not good.

If the ECU doesn\'t see the full voltage, then you could be getting \'drop out\'.  This could give the symptoms you are seeing - ECU switches outputs on, load appears pulling the 12v line down, ECU does not have enough voltage to hold output so it drops, load drops off the 12V line, ECU springs back to life and this goes around in circles.

Check that you get a decent 12V from the main relay, and from the EGI fuse.

[grinder]

thanks prof - more things to check for !

the pin that was only getting 9v - thats the power for the ECU ( ignition side )

but i dont know how to make it get 12v

its page 79 of the FSM ( section F )

Pin 1C - but it should show 12v at cranking - and it was only 9.xx V - BUT the clicking starts before you start to crank - with the ignition on - we do get 0v

we also checked the 3e,g,h and these say below 1v with the ignition ON - now we got 0v - so in theory that is below 1v - but is that accpetable ( the pins are the crank angle sensor ) - but we checked that out and the OHMS of it was just fine - unless its the wiring from THAT to the ECU thats broken ??

sooo many things to check

Stu

[Prof]

Pins 1a,1b are the voltage feeds to the ECU.

1a supplies 12v battery - there is a small CMOS RAM chip in the ECU that \'remembers\' the fault codes - that\'s why you remove power to reset them (remove neg battery terminal - pressing brake pedal will assist in discharging capacitors to ensure the ECU is reset)

1b is the main ECU feed - this line comes from the \'Main\' relay and should receive power whenever the ignition switch is at ACC or IGN

1c is a cranking sensor input, and backup feed to the ECU because the ignition switch cuts acc power when cranking.

You might only get 9v on 1c at cranking time, as the load on the battery will be high, but it could indicate a week battery.

If it clicks on IGN, then this suggests a possible sensor/output fault and the ECU may be reporting fault codes.

My duty solenoid pulses before the engine is cranked - makes an annoying ticker ticker noise, but the injectors are not firing.  Your\'s appear to be, which is obviously a fault.  I believe the clickng noise is part of a self diagnostic that the ECU runs at startup.  Is it possible that it gets stuck in this mode and wont fire ?

A little bit more info for you !

BTW - hope you have treated the missus to a night out matey :Laugh :Nono!

[grinder]

the TII makes very quiet clicking noises - this is really really clicking ( you can hear them from about 6-8 feet away !!! )

if i get chance tonight - we will try and pull some error codes - might help us track this down a bit quicker

[grinder]

to make this clearer for all ...  i will try and explain

1 - key in igntion ( no clicking )
2 - key turned to acc ( no clicking )
3 - turn key again to put the dash lights on ready to start ( clicking at this point )
4 - crank ( errrr probably clicking - cant hear it over the engine )
5 - stop cranking ( no clicking )

now from this point - steps 4 and 5 produce no clicking ( but you have to try and start it ONCE for the clicking to stop ) - although it you turn the key to 1 or 2 and then try and start it - the cycle starts again with the clicking

it could be a broken sensor - im just hoping the ECU will tell me what it is

[Brett]

Hmm, if the ECU is not getting 12V then I think its a major symptom of your problem (as his profship has said) try to trace the 12V feed and check you dont have a wire gone resistive.

[Grizzly]

Check what the Battery is putting out? If that may be low if its been Discharged then Charged all its life upto now?

[Grizzly]

Also do you know anyone with a Simalar year Auto vert? Maybe they would give you the Code of theres and at least it would give you an idea if the One on yours is correct and not a Messed with model of another car.

[Mobilemick]

It sounds like your batterys duff, and everytime you are cranking it, its not turning fast enough, and you Flood it, and are getting no where, :0

Mick

[grinder]

hiya chaps

battery is about 2 months old - still have the reciept for it

even jumped off another running car - it still clicked

been on the phone to Pip tonight and he suggest not even trying to get it running without sorting the clicking out

he doesnt have any N374 ECU\'s but said i should try mine out the TII on it

doesnt matter if i dont try and start it - just see if the clicking stops - he said it wont damage anything

its something else to look at ...

if this does work - then i will be most annoyed - as it was suggested earlier and we have ripped lots of stuff out

i was more worried that it would damage the ECU - but pip is sure that it wont

and he has about 5 spare ones if it does

might not play with it tonight - not sure yet

Stu

[88GT-R]

Is that a S4 Stu??

[grinder]

nah mate the cab is a S5 ( 1991 ) and the coupe is a S5 (1990 )