New toy WILL play :-D

[Brett]

That means you can rev it until the seals fly out of the exhaust and the bearings collapse!  I\'d keep it on the dial in terms of revs if I were you!

[Prof]

not to keen on the rev limit removed - although not sure what that means ?

Nothing to worry about over much, just allows you to rev past 7000 RPM.

The only caveat is that the oil and water pumps can\'t work at these RPM rates for any length of time, so it\'s ok for a quick blip, but not sustained use.

Does make it interesting at the lights sometimes, as you can leave it very late for the gear change :3gears-rh :Giggle

[grinder]

he he he - yeah cheers matey

aslong as the red line buzzer sounds - it will be ok

just a shame its in a auto know !! LOL

i wonder what power its putting down ??

[Brett]

Around 0.0 probably more if you get it running :rollin

[Prof]

I reckon it would make 220-230 with the stock exhaust on it.  You might get another 30-40 with a decent pipe on the back !

Are you going to dyno it, once it\'s running ?

BTW - got the pins out and the new socket in the donor ECU - will pick up yours tonight and post piccies of both boards, so you can see what\'s the same and what\'s different. :cool

[grinder]

i might dyno it yeah

and i will do the coupe once all the stuff has been fitted

not really looked at the exhaust on the cab - i dont know if its catted or not ??

got some big ass back boxes for it though

2 cars to work on - where will i find the time LOL

Stu

[Prof]

OK, comparison pics of the 2 ECU models N374 and N380, and also annotated pics of the N380 so you can see what\'s what.
 
There are 2 boards in the ECU - one analogue board and one digital board. The analogue board has the power transistors that drive the Injectors, solenoids and relays, along with input amps for the sensors, conditioning circuits for the signals, and an atmospheric pressure sensor - easy to spot - it has a hole in it ! There is also some circuitry to buffer these signals onto the digital board.
 
The digital board holds the Processor chip - a DSP, a 16 channel a-d converter (to read the sensor inputs as digital values), a PIA chip which will be providing on/off signals - probably driving the injectors and solenoids, and there is some RAM (for temp storage - holds fault codes, working calculations etc..), the ROM chip which holds the MAP\'s and tells the ECU what to do.
 
Then there is another 40 pin chip whose function I cannot identify, it\'s different between the 2 models, but has the same pin out. I suspect it\'s some sort of support chip for the DSP, but what does it do?
 
Without track tracing I have no idea.
 
Good news is that I can probably transplant the digital board from Stu\'s ECU (N374) onto the analogue board from the N380, as the interface looks exactly the same, and the analogue board seems to have all the same circuitry - there are additional components on the N380, but these will be ignored on the Jap car.

[Mobilemick]

Just curious Stu,  but what side is the ECU on, gonna check mine for water leak

Mick

[sadgoth]

passenger footwell under the carpet there is a metal cover, ECU sits below it.

My spare ECU is an N380 by the way Stu.

[grinder]

Prof : so what did you think of my ECU - do we both agree that it looks faulty !!

so from reading your VERY complex post - it should work OK then ??

keep me informed how you get on - i have fingers and toes crossed at this point

come accross a N374 ECU on the aus site - so if all this fails i will pursuse that route ( dont really want to do that - as i want the knightsport chip to work !! LOL )

i cant thank you enough prof at this point

ta

stu

[Prof]

Stu,

Plan is as follows:

Shipping the donor ECU out today, it\'s the N380, but  I have attached the dongle from your ECU, and the original knightsports chip is in.

I think this should be a goer, the only component that I am not too sure about was the other large 40 pin chip - this had part number MP4451 on mine, and MP4480 on your unit.  I suspect that one is an enhanced version of the other, so should work with the code in the ROM.  The main processor is the MP4400 which is the same on both boards, and the ROM code is for this unit, so your ROM will work with it.

As a backup to this, I will take your ECU apart, and clean up the board.  I can replace anything that looks like it\'s had it, and then blow another EPROM with the knightsports code so that should be back as it is.  If the analogue board is too shot, then I will fit your digital board to the analog board on an N380 - I can post that to you and we can arrange getting the first one back at a later date.

Either way I will be posting one today/tomorrow, and the other one will follow early next week if this one doesn\'t get her started.

[grinder]

blimey dave

so have you just swapped the chip over ??

like you say - the only thing that sounds confusing is the mp4480 and the mp4451 chip - i wonder if one is just a newer version ??

only time will tell on this one eh

mighy have a scout around and see if i can find some info on the chips ( doubt it though )

thanks again

stu

[Prof]

mighy have a scout around and see if i can find some info on the chips ( doubt it though )

I\'ll be impressed if you turn anything up - I had a good old search for this last night - it\'s hard enough finding the MP4400 - let alone any of the support chips.

The logo on the chip is \'ND\' - I think they may be a 2nd source for Texas Instruments.

Good luck with your hunt !

[grinder]

well that came up with NOTHING !! LOL

i really hope this works matey

Stu

[grinder]

not updated you in a while so here goes

1 - ECU arrived
2 - put ECU in
3 - stick clicking but not as bad
4 - spend about 4 hrs today trying to start it and it will NOT run
5 - its actually pumping fuel out the exhaust .. thats not good
6 - took all the plugs out - all wet
7 - checked each plug for a spark - 2 fine - 1 iffy - 1 non at all
8 - checked all the leads - they all work with a working plug

this is where its gets messy

9 - my mate came round to help
10 - so we decided to remove the alarm ignition side
11 - still no difference
12 - we have now removed the cat1 alarm - not happy about this really - but it proved the point that it was working fine ( mate says he can refit it - bloody hope so )
13 - removed the turbo timer
14 - still clicks
15 - but can be refitted

so thats it chaps - im at a complete loss - no idea what to do - it looks like a mouse has eaten the wiring loom

i know that i dont need the alarm as the car wont run - but i really liked the cat1 for the insurance !! - we can fit it back - its just that the car looks a right mess at the mo

i really dont know what to do or who to turn to ??

i dont know if its worth throwing money at it ( and money is very tight at the mo )

i was ****ed off before with the car - but now im at an all time low

i still dont know if its ECU thats throwing a wobbler ( although prof supplied me with an ECU )

plan now i think is

1 - speak to pip and try and get a N374 ecu to test ( or another tuner )
2 - if this works then yippeee
3 - if it does im really tempted to bundle this and the coupe and walk away from RX7\'s - im that ****ed off with it all - i really am

i cant believe it , i really cant

i dont know enough about them to keep working on them - i have no space to work on the car , its winter , its cold , it goes dark tooo early

im getting grief from the better half - i really i dont know what to do

before i was about 40% annoyed with the car - but now its about 85% annoyed

i think the main thing is the removal of the Cat1 - i really liked the remote central locking - yeah im that sad !! LOL



its very sad - im a 30 yr old man who wants to sit and cry at this moment intime

Stu / Grinder