starting problems...HELP!

Started by hawker182, September 18, 2006, 01:22:31 PM

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hawker182

Just doin a bit of routine work on the rex and now i\'ve hit a problem. Just fitted a new radiator, followed all the how too\'s and got the rad on no problems with no leaks...great! but when i start the engine it fires up ok but after about 20secs just dies and turns itself off. Sits at idle speed fine but keeps turning itself off....any ideas?

hawker182

Just been doing a bit if researching and it seems as though it could be flooded, the symptons are there! this is the first time i\'ve had to deal with this, will post any results. cheers

Prof

I don\'t think you\'d even get it started if it was flooded - would just turn over and smell like a petrochemical plant.
 
If it\'s cutting off so early, it sounds like fuel flow or one of the sensors maybe off - check you didn\'t knock anything out when you were in there with the spanners.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Brett

Make sure you have no air leaks in the intake tracts either :)
Brap Brap Brap Brap

hawker182

#4
Checked all the sensors, tightened up all the clips for the intake but now it wont even start. Just turns over and over catching slightly now and then, plus the smell of petrol is quiet overwhelming. When it did start for a few seconds white smoke bellowed out from the back but soon died and back to nothing again. This is what makes me think its flooded!?

Also is there a fuel cut of switch anywhere on the T2? took the spark plugs out removed egi fuse and cranked the engine but nothing but smoke, not even a trace of fuel, seems as though no fuel may be getting to it....and yeah i\'d just stuck a 10er in it too just to make sure cause it was low.

WEIRD???

sadgoth

smoke? without the plugs in? Sounds more like fuel vapour pouring out of the pipes. Was the smoke white?

You may have flooded it, of so, take out the EGI fuse and turn it over without the plugs in, heat them up to clean them, then put it all back together and try again! DON\'T SMOKE NEAR IT!
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

hawker182

Yeah white smoke without the plugs in? bad news?

Yeah didnt have to long before the darkness made me stop last night, will try again this evening, just remove the plugs, clean them and stick them in the oven, crank the car without the egi fuse 5-6 times then replace sparks with a little oil, replace egi fuse and that should sort it?

hawker182

Oh anyone know exactly which ht leads go to which plugs? i cant quite make it out from the manual. Just in case i loose my grip on one when i\'m fiddlin..cheers

sadgoth

Quote from: hawker182Yeah white smoke without the plugs in? bad news?

Yeah didnt have to long before the darkness made me stop last night, will try again this evening, just remove the plugs, clean them and stick them in the oven, crank the car without the egi fuse 5-6 times then replace sparks with a little oil, replace egi fuse and that should sort it?

yes, turn it over for about 20-30 secs with the accelerator pedal down to open the throttle bodies to make sure all the fuel is out of the system. Better to stick the plugs over the hob to burn out all the excess fuel/oil.

Can\'t remember how you id the HT leads, just know that if you have them the wrong way round it runs like a PIG! sorry!

No the white smoke isn\'t a bad sign, just a sign that you have loads of fuel vapour in the system to clear out
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

hawker182

Excellent cheers, will try once i get home and let u know how it goes

Prof

Leading plugs on the bottom - think they fire together, so doesn\'t matter which way around these go, trailing ones are on the top - they fire independently.  Best bet is to trace the leads before you pull them off
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


grinder

dead easy

4 plugs - you have trailing and leading ( 2 on each )

so.....

T1 - top plug first rotor ( headlight end )
T2 - top plug second rotor ( bulk head end )
L1 - lower plug first rotor
L2 - lower plug second rotor

and the coils are marked ( i think ) Trailing is the one near the windscreen , leading is the one near the battery ( trailing top , leading lower )

simple really :D

Stu


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hawker182

excellent cheers guys, let ya know how i get on

hawker182

Ok got home last night and yeah the engine was flooded, did the above and it started on a dime. GREAT i thought.....then back to the underlining problem of after having the engine running for no more than 10secs it cuts itself off. Seems to be the same amount off time each time, just starts up revs and dies. You can apply the throttle and it will rev up but still die after 10secs or so. Any ideas? cheers

sadgoth

very odd, that sounds like what happened to Stu\'s (Grinder) new vert, prior to his purchasing said vehicle.

Must be some problem with either the ECU or maybe there is a fault with the security system causing the immobiliser to kick in?
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D