Creaking noise : rear suspension : MPEG included!

Van · September 20, 2006, 09:52:41 PM

Chris, when you push the car wing, can you see the rod and top bush move about within the turret. Mine was tight and seemed fine until I saw it move when I "bounced" the car. Might be worth a look.

chrisBoid · September 21, 2006, 07:57:45 AM

Quote from: VanChris, when you push the car wing, can you see the rod and top bush move about within the turret. Mine was tight and seemed fine until I saw it move when I "bounced" the car. Might be worth a look.

I\'ll get some assistance from the g/friend and check it out - thanks.

Van · September 21, 2006, 10:41:50 AM

But it\'s a one man job.

chrisBoid · September 21, 2006, 07:22:42 PM

Quote from: VanBut it\'s a one man job.

I can\'t push down on the wing and crane my head to see beneath the wheel arch at the same time - it takes a lot of force to produce the creaking sound.

Having now had a good listen for the creaking whilst my girlfriend rolled around in the boot, I have located it as being near the top of the shock absorber as indicated in the images below. There was no noticeable visible movement looking at the turret or the absorber, apart from a very slight compressing of the spring.

Van · September 21, 2006, 07:37:04 PM

Chris

Hehe, I had suspected that you had misunderstood me...and I\'m right. For the front, you need to pop the bonnet and look from the top not under the wheel arch! You can see the top nut and bush from above. At the back, you need to remove the plastic turret cover first- with the boot open of course.

If the bush and rod moves then the lower nut needs tightening by removing the top nut and bush first. This gives you access to the bottom lower nut- no need to jack the car up and remove the coilovers.

chrisBoid · September 21, 2006, 07:44:17 PM

Quote from: VanChris

Hehe, I had suspected that you had misunderstood me...and I\'m right. For the front, you need to pop the bonnet and look from the top not under the wheel arch! You can see the top nut and bush from above. At the back, you need to remove the plastic turret cover first- with the boot open of course.

If the bush and rod moves then the lower nut needs tightening by removing the top nut and bush first. This gives you access to the bottom lower nut- no need to jack the car up and remove the coilovers.

Yep, I see where you were coming from about only being a 1 man job. I wanted to kill 2 birds with 1 stone and look underneath as well. Anyhow, there was no movement from the top (under the plastic cover) that I could see

chrisBoid · September 21, 2006, 08:23:15 PM

I have read a lot of information regarding Tein\'s with a solid upper pillow ball mount (such as the Flex) causing a lot of squeaking and knocking. There does not seem to be much of a solution. Some people have gone for a softer damper setting which has reduced the noise - I will give this a try, I only tried a harder setting when investigating if the damping level was connected to the noise.

chrisBoid · September 21, 2006, 09:04:05 PM

After much pushing and pulling on the rear of my car, I can confirm that the rear drivers side is now as bad at creaking as the passenger side.

I also managed to recreate the knocking sound but only on the rear drivers side. I did this by pushing sharply down (compression) as if I was performing cpr. Once I did this 3 or 4 times it would stop and I would have to pull the rear of the car up (rebound)) - doing this sharply made a knocking sound as well, but only 3 or 4 times again.

Oh, setting the damper to the maximum softness of 16 clicks didn\'t have any effect.