!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Overheating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rixio · September 30, 2006, 08:51:41 PM

Yep Yep Yep & Yep...

If only it was that simple

Andy_k · September 30, 2006, 09:09:16 PM

Is the water temp senor wiring ok and not earthing out?

U replaced the sensor itself? Could be a false reading!

Grizzly · September 30, 2006, 09:45:59 PM

You realy need to get your Block coolant presure tested, a Comp test isn\'t going to tell you is a water seal on the Cold side has failed.

Rixio · September 30, 2006, 09:46:58 PM

Its gona get pressure tested & checked tmrw at 2pm will see what happens:2Confused

Is there anything specific i need to do? I doubt they\'v ever done a rotary before!

Grizzly · September 30, 2006, 09:53:49 PM

Test the Block not the hole lot. If you arn\'t carfull it may pick up another fault and make you think its the engine, So i\'d test the Block if thats good then test the hole system and if that comes back good you have ither a Thermostat Problem or electrical.

BUT! if its overheating in 3 minutes its serious and would be ovious.

Good Luck.

Grizzly · September 30, 2006, 09:56:25 PM

TBH you would need one of theses to properly do a Rotary Block

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16858&cat=568&page=1

You can make them fairly easy, I check every rebuild with one before it gets anywhere near a Car.

cjr · September 30, 2006, 10:02:07 PM

engine!!!!

Rixio · September 30, 2006, 10:57:32 PM

Quote from: GrizzlyTBH you would need one of theses to properly do a Rotary Block

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16858&cat=568&page=1

You can make them fairly easy, I check every rebuild with one before it gets anywhere near a Car.

How would i go about getting just the block tested? That kit looks like it goes onto where the water pump housing attaches to the block...not cheap either...iv just put all that housing back on :Hammer

Quote from: cjrengine!!!!

But it has no signs the engine is kaput...no champagne bubbles or combustion gasses in the coolant & no smoke...plus it starts and runs fine hot or cold!

Quote from: Andy_kIs the water temp senor wiring ok and not earthing out?

U replaced the sensor itself? Could be a false reading!

Which sensor is it? Where is it located? & i have 2 different temps visible. 1) PFC Commander 2) Stock gauge & i understand they are both different sensors anyway...?

Grizzly · October 01, 2006, 01:56:30 AM

Quote from: RixioHow would i go about getting just the block tested? That kit looks like it goes onto where the water pump housing attaches to the block...not cheap either...iv just put all that housing back on :Hammer

But it has no signs the engine is kaput...no champagne bubbles or combustion gasses in the coolant & no smoke...plus it starts and runs fine hot or cold!

Yes, it goes where the Water pump lives i did say a while ago you need to test the Water pasageways rather then the Combustion and unfortunatly thats the only real way.

The smaller the Water seal faliure the less visable the symptoms are, Also it depends where its gone (if its in the Inlet stroke it will be sucking water in rather then blowing air into the system) If it over heats in 3 minutes thats quite bad.

Andy_k · October 01, 2006, 02:16:08 AM

As far as im aware:-

1 sensor does the low water level (buzzer and light)which is small single black wire.
The other does the Gauge and Ecu.

Grizzly · October 01, 2006, 02:20:57 AM

Not to be funny but would a sensor cause it too over heat? I would say only on the gauges? If the fan was\'nt working it may overheat in about an Hour??

For the Motor To Overheat in 3!! Minutes it has to be loosing water or have a Blockage.

At least it you have the coolant Presure test done the Old Boinger way it will show if there is a leak.

Rixio · October 01, 2006, 02:50:41 AM

From the beginning people have been betting on the rad...my thinking is it would take a serious amount of grime/bits/sh!t to clog up the Feed rad (4" thick) but maybe its done this stock one on the quick thats why its only taking 3 mins?! Will see how things go tmrw...iv read on nopistons it should be tested between 15-20psi...?

We are now in Oct & this started back in July!!!!! :Hammer

Andy_k · October 01, 2006, 02:54:58 AM

Whats actually telling him its over heating? And within 3 mins aswell.

Does the coolent filler cap release the pressure?

When i installed my electric water pump it took approx 3-4 mins(without water moving about the engine) to get to about 80c before the pump would kick in on the controller. This was from stone cold.

Do the fans kick in at 90-95c?
Is the air blown from them hot?
Do the temps keep rising after that?
Whats your Idle set at ?

Andy

shaunwil · October 01, 2006, 10:21:24 AM

Isn\'t the one in the dash connected to a sensor at the back of the engine ?

Plus you will need to pull the whole waterpump off if you want to test the pump.

Shaun

Grizzly · October 01, 2006, 10:50:13 AM

Quote from: RixioCame back from work one night, around 24\'c...parked up at a friends let it cool for 2 mins then turned it off. After about 10 mins i could hear it boiling inside as though there was an air lock. So left it at my mates place until the morning.

If i get stuck in traffic it will overheat.

The last few days has been cooler but for some reason its still loosing water somewhere. No visible leaks or anything. Not overheating! No buzzer! But after a run main rad pipes will be stiff with steam rather than water...

Rear that and tell me what is telling him its overheating?