just about had enough with my rx :(

[iaint]

Sorry, beyone my limited range of suggestions now!

[aposegil]

thats cool mate

thanx for the info and advice is greatfull

hopefully get it sorted so i can enjoy it as its always been my dream jap car (only nice one to ever come out from there IMO) and right now looking like a disappointment

[nikp]

where are the sensors etc i can check thats controls the warm up?

There\'s a coolant supply at the back of the throttle body, which is not only used to keep the inlet air warm in cold weather (To stop it from freezing) it\'s also used to warm the wax rod that moves something (Can\'t remember what off the top of my head!) that adjusts the adle speed for hot and cold temps.

[aposegil]

ah sweet getting somewhere now

is this the thing side of the throttle body thats runs a 2nd double throttle that guys in america remove? was reading up somehwere

is this know to stick? etc meaning its not closing properly and off course as it gets hotter becomes more stickerier makeing hard for what ever it is to shut fully?

which could also explain why nothing happens when i unplug the idle valve?

[Ricco_04]

Im sure you have already checked this but check that your throttle cable is not too tight.

[aposegil]

yep throttle cable and throttle stops etc all checks and perfect

the more i think about it the more this warm up control thing is to blame from what i remember reading up on the yank forums

might have to get rid of it like they have over there

anyone done it here?

[MillSpeed]

Might be worth just by-passing the coolant supply to the throttle body (that controls the wax rod) just to see if has an effect on the idle. Good write up on how to do it here: http://robrobinette.com/throttle_body_coolant.htm What you\'re describing deffo sounds like the Accelertated Warm-up System (AWS) as found on US cars, but that doesn\'t explain why the revs would go back up when it warms up. Besides that I\'m pretty sure the j-spec cars didn\'t have AWS

[aposegil]

thanx for the link mate ill have a read

mine def has the wax rod thing and at present moment got past this by screwing in the screw that sits on it all the way in and like it says on there just runs lumpy to begin with

at the mo im trying to find either someone local to me to try out their idle valve (or jsut to look at it compared to mine) or actually buy one that is know to work as I think it all comes down to the idle valve, as im certain its seized which means not shutting properly on idle to lower it enough IMO

The going back up when hot think has got to do with my throttle body being dirty but now ive given it a good old clean hopefully should sort that out

[aposegil]

out of interest in the inlet there is a set of butterflies/throttle thats looks like its controled by vacumn in the top top holes

can see them when u take throttle body off

what the hell is that for lol

[MillSpeed]

That\'s your double throttle, it closes partially when your engine\'s cold to stop you from giving the car too much stick. http://www.rotormafia.com/dtc/ A sure-fire way to tell if your car has AWS is to look at the large plastic elbow that connects to the throttle body. If it\'s got a pipe coming off the back (towards the bulkhead) then it\'s got AWS, if it\'s blocked off with a rubber cap (like on my j-spec car) then it hasn\'t or it\'s been disabled. There\'s a pic of the AWS solenoid in that link. But anyways yeah, it does sound like there could be an issue with the idle valve. Have you tried giving it a good clean? I know the VW ones buzz when they\'re working properly, might be the same for the Mazda ISV

[aposegil]

nope def blocked off like u said on the elbow

see i actually thought that good place to put another dump valve lol hence why it was there

also yep took the idle valve off, if uve seen one ull know what i mean

gave it good clean but that white plastic cover only moves back about 1mm like it hits something inside stoping it from moving and thats it and yep it buzz\'s but on VW u actually saw it move when u put contact on (i.e to start it as to let as much air in as possible) but this does nothing doesnt move just stays sat solid 1 mm back

hence why i think what ever controling the diaphram is jammed open not lowering the idle enough