just blew up my rebuilt engine!!

Started by richard cash, July 12, 2006, 03:17:28 PM

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Red and Single

Quote from: John YorkeI for one would rather see this thread deleted

here here  :cheers

Well said John !!  :King :King :King

I think a few new threads regarding alarms, ignition amps and how the hell we can solve these problems would be great. :yes

I think this guy should sort his cars problems out with reworx and rxmotors in private. :yes :Thumbs-up
Dave Hughes
13.352 @ 109.03mph (running 0.75 bar  :rollin )
Red \'95 Type R T04S & Bare Arsed  :chat

FD3SNuttah

#181
id wary about mechanics cos ... once bitten by a snake.... i paid someone to change the glow plugs on my car once they snapped one in half trying to remove it and left the end of glow plug in the engine - subsequently the engine **** itself - that cost me a grand.. so yeh im sorry if my comments seem a little harsh against mechanics - i know there are people you can trust - its just that this thread bought back terrible memories of being a student at uni and needing a car to get to work / back home / socialise and having it blow up on the motorway and then stood there in the rain waiting for greenflag wondering how i long i was going to have to live on beans on toast to pay for it. Then my shear rage when i found half a glow plug in my cylinder head and not getting reimbursed for it!

as a mechanic you gotta understand that  you dont just get given trust you you must earn it.. remember people have to pay for the work and its not cheap to anyone - therefore utmost care must be taken to ensure that car is to the job you said you would do.

the other side of the coin is that its inherent in any business that you may fall into dispute with people regarding services or goods you have supplied regardless. people find it easy to blame others.... its just what happens.

i personally have heard nothing but good things about these vendors - so does that mean i wont lose sleep if i had to trust him with my pride and joy - nope cos i will.

i really dont want to see this thread locked as im really interested in carrying on this discussion re. alarms..

I do have something constructive to add but may have been posted before?

surely if the poor wiring on an alarm could cause an issue with det\' etc. then this would have been well documented somewhere or would have happened to soemone on here before??? the manufacturers of alarms would have done something about this in the design of thier products as that would make them lose competitive advantage if thier alarm was inferior or dangerous to engines..

Even car stereos have thicker gauge wire for things which carry main power -

how come i have seen wires 1mm thick carrying 12V to essential items in my FC - while doing my s4 - s5conversion (which a vendor said - was near enough impossible tio do before i started it -- lol) -  if you see how thick my wire for the fuel pump is you would laugh as it is a proper overkill in comparison to the standard telephone wire mazda use.

hence why im sitting in the camp thats thinking that the alrm causing failure is not a sound theory -if its a wiring issue that caused failure then it could have been any wire in that loom -

therefore maybe it isnt the responsibility of the rebuilder - maybe the guy who mapped it should have seen it? you surely would pick up on a loose / under ignition during mapping??

maybe richard has misinformed us or we got the wrong end of the stick - you wont know for sure until this engine has been taken apart and the X years of a rotary building vendor can elaborate on what caused failure - in any case he shouldnt have posted anything until he had spoken at length to the people who did his rebuild / mapping.

- anyone remember that hurley thread?

ro284

Richard how are you going to transport the engine when you have it out? i don\'t live far from RXmotors if that\'s where you want it to go, i may be able to collect and take it (subject to when! work times, etc,) let me have your email address if you want some help with that,i\'ll see what i can do, good luck with removal, i managed mine ok, it\'s not too bad to be honest,
Bob

kev-yorks

Quotemaybe the guy who mapped it should have seen it? you surely would pick up on a loose / under ignition during mapping??
One of the down sides with rolling road tuning/mapping is you don\'t get all the variables you do on a road. I bet all you guys that aren\'t running water injection have been seeing mega high intake temps the last few weeks which also means all the ancillaries under the bonnet coils etc are much hotter than the norm which increases the load on all components. However good someone is you can\'t map for all conditions and eventualities. Even if it turns out to be the alarm wiring the extra heat in the wiring increases the electrical resistance which in turn increases the load on components causing more heat its a vicious circle.
Kevin
Regards Kevin

cjr

Bingo someone who understands^
A small turbo

GerbilStuntFarm

Richard,

Sorry if it\'s been answered, but why was the engine rebuilt in the first instance?

Also was the WI on at the time. I thought this should have helped ward off det, at least enough for a safety margin. Was it mapped with or without WI?

Apologies if this is off-topic, judging by the last 3 pages I think it must be!

Hope you get it back together soon, much of the magic of an RX7 (for me) is the little bundle under the hood, hope it doesn\'t give you much trouble after the next rebuild.

Cheers, Jode

20B_boy

Quote from: MikeLMRThe money making side of things just gets in the way IMHO and I would love to see MRC free of all trade adds paid up or not.
Totally agree Mike, and there\'s an easy solution to that!
R.

cjr

you use Wi as a extra safety factor I do not know a tuner that maps to WI they just use it as a safety factor. BUT they make sure there is enough fuel there as far as they can so if the WI fails that the engine should last. I do highlight the as far as they CAN
A small turbo

GerbilStuntFarm

..
#188
Yes, that i know. However I\'m sure a tuner would map to WI if asked, if we assumed/presumed everything then we\'d never find the cause of any problems, hence i ask.

Edit: editted for clarification and grammar.

mattmaclennan

Alarm/Turbo Timer/Whatever, if it interupts the wire surrounding the IGN then it\'s bad news in my eyes. I have the luxury of starting from a bare shell, I can chose the age/resistance/length/colour of my entire wiring loom, my car won\'t break because of a mass produced wiring loom fault. It\'ll be thrashing the living daylights out of it that breaks it! If you are worried, buy a new loom, have your alarm fitted properly, buy a warrenty from a company that will touch a 15 year old car. Plenty of Imports are sold with aftermarket warrentes, they amount to nothing when the motor blows and it\'s due to "lack of maintenance", and that applies to about anything that could have possible caused the engine to fail. YOU OWN A SPORTSCAR!!! THEY ARE EXPENSIVE!!!! try and have some fun in it.

iaint

Quote from: kev-yorksOne of the down sides with rolling road tuning/mapping is you don\'t get all the variables you do on a road.

Tru Dat.  For example mine doesn\'t sustain full boost in the Rollers and peak power is made at 0.9 bar.  On the road it holds 1.1 bar rock steady!

Tuning is as much art as science.

"The way to do is to be." - Lao Tzu

gsb876

Wow took me ages reading all of this topic.

Some good points made and some daft comments made, lets just wait to see the actual cause before everyone gets carried away blaming each other, i  think the problem is that specialists can create great results 99% of the time but when there is a single fault there is a massive backlash, of course if you spend big money you expect good results but just sometimes there can be issues.

As for warranties, i think if a car is already modified when rebuilt then the warranty should stand however if the car is modded after the rebuild then surely the engine builder cannot be blamed as their work has been overshadowed by the newer mods.

As for reliability i must say in 3 yrs of rotary ownership i have been quite lucky nothing major has gone wrong, i dont do track/drag days and Derby is not that busy as regards to traffic thus the engine is not under too much stress, most of the mods i have had done are all reliability based not performance based WI has been the latest addition for the summer months. Believe me i dont drive slow either but dont put the car through daft punishment and i believe so far this has deffo been a bonus as per the reliability side of things.

If you are going to abuse the car to the maximum you can then dont be suprised that you get issues with reliability, yes they are performance cars but as such the correct care and maintainence must be applied. :god
"Every generation has the chance to change the world"

Mills & Bains guest author :Giggle

GerbilStuntFarm

All good stuff there matey, .. from whats been disclosed this car hasn\'t been abused even slightly, if Richard\'s not dismissing anything from his account then somethings gone wrong, and a \'couple of grand\' wrong at that. Tempremental or not, that\'s a good deal of money, even in monopoly land.

Brett

Ok people, I\'ve just tidied up this here thread, all the whinging, moaning and most of the off topic stuff is now gone.  (I know some of what I\'ve removed was not offensive etc, but its easier this way and keeps the meat of the thread intact)

 Keep it clean, lets get some definative answers out of this thread :)
Brap Brap Brap Brap

mattmaclennan

Here\'s a rebuild warrenty from Rx for your 7 in Aus. Thought it would provide food for thought.

RRR - Rotary Response and Racing

Rotary Response and Racing and Rx for your 7 warrant to the original purchaser that each reconditioned or new built engine shall be free, under normal use and with required periodic maintenance as set forth by the original manufacturer (RRR), from defect in material and workmanship subject to the following terms and conditions:

Term:  This warranty shall exist for 12 months/12,000 miles (for reconditioned) or 36 months/36,000 miles (for new built) whichever occurs first. This shall commence from date and mileage of installation by Rx for your 7, or seven days from the date of shipment for mail order.

Standards: Subject to the provisions of Limitations hereof. RRR, after inspection and approval, shall repair, or replace said engine within the term set forth without charge to the owner user.

Limited Liability: The liability of RRR under this warranty is limited solely to the repair or replacement of defective parts or workmanship. RRR shall not be liable for any incidental, special consequential or exemplary damages, or for any service not expressly provided for herein relating to or arising from the RRR engine.

Limited Warranty: This warranty is given in lieu of all other warranties, express or implied, including any warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose on the part of RRR. No dealer, nor any agent or employee thereof, is authorized to extend or enlarge this warranty.

Limitations: This warranty applies only to the basic engine block and internal parts replaced in the reconditioned or new built engine. This warranty shall not apply to, or include any of the following:  

Repair, or replacement required as a result of any accident or misuse.

Repair, or replacement of any engine accessory or service items, including specifically without limitations all components of cooling, fuel, electrical and emission control systems, and all points, plugs, filters and belts.

Any damage due to competition, racing, or related purpose.

Any engine which has been repaired or modified by any person or firm other than RRR, or to which any device or accessory not conforming to original manufacturer\'s specifications has been installed or removed.

Any engine in which periodic maintenance services required by RRR  and described hereto have not been performed.

Any engine which has been overheated, or oil starved.

Required Maintenance:

Oil and Filter Change: First 500 miles, every 3,000 miles for non turbo, every 1,500 miles for turbo

Coolant Change: Every 12,000 miles or annually. No more than 50% antifreeze.

Fuel Filter Change: Every 12,000 miles or annually, 20,000 miles for 3rd Gen

Air Filter Change: Every 12,000 miles or annually, 20,000 miles for 3rd Gen

Proper ignition timing, fuel mixture and emission settings must be maintained at all times.

 
Required Repairs/Parts at time of engine installation:

Rod out and repair or replacement of radiator

Replacement of thermostat and water pump

Alternator and air pump belts recommended

Radiator, heater and engine water hoses recommended