FMIC info needed

[Prof]

Stu,

If you are only after 200bhp at the rear wheels - then just do a decat straight through 3" exhaust, decent induction kit - which I think you have, and an aftermarket rom tuned ECU replacement - that will get you close on 250-270 bhp at the flywheel - but you will have to run on good fuel - 99 or Opti to be sure of keeping away from detonation - intake temp will still be warm - hot, but fueling changes in the ecu will help a bit there.

If you want to run a bit more boost then you will then need to think about cooling.

[grinder]

im running about .8 now - which is prob the most for the stock tubby ( if not over )

and i have no real way of controlling it

i can control fueling when i get the SAFC plumbed in

its just that the TMIC was very warm so i really want to sort that out - and in a chavvy way i really like the look of the FMIC

Stu

[sadgoth]

I\'ll try and text those pics of the setup that Matt did on mine to you at some point today mate. From what Tim was saying the stock turbo should be able to handle up to 1BAR if you have the fueling.

[Prof]

Might want to port the wastegate though - to help control boost creep - the S5 is much better than S4 turbo, because it has 2 holes under the flap for the wastegate - but even these will not deal with a large flow of exhaust.

Porting the wastegate is apparently a time consuming but relatively cheap mod to get higher boost levels out of the stock turbo with a boost controller and avoid creep.  But you will want to lose the cat to get the best results :cool

There was a good link on fc3s-pro.com on how to do that, but looks like that domain has gone now

From memory, you need to remove the rear exhaust turbine housing, which includes the wastegate, and disconnect the actuator rod.  Then hold the flap back with some tie raps or elastic bands so you can get at the holes.  Then grind out the holes as much as you can with a long burr, - there is probably a couple of mm to be had in diameter increase on the wastegate holes themselves as well - and I believe they join into a single exit into the exhaust outlet - need to widen from that end as well.

Alternatively - andresturbo in the US do a beefed up hybrid version of the HT18 with a 60-1 T04B front end compressor section, and the ported wastegate and high flow exhaust turbine - they are reconditioned / remanufactured - but come with a guarantee - relatively cheap at £370 - plus postage and import from US - with the right front end mods, porting, FMIC and fueling this turbo will net over 500bhp !  Good thing is no need to change exhaust or manifold for this baby

However, I was reading somewhere that the basic 13BT engine block will not go much beyond 400BHP as the block itself has some weeknesses and cooling issues at these high output figures

[antnicuk]

mine is running 460 with no issues at all.   I have heard that the earlier turbo II rear hoising is weak around the rear dowl but i have a new housing which sorted this problem.  Other than that and hardened stationary gear there isnt much difference between the 13b and the REW.  Does anyone know of any other differences?

Do they run the same oil pressure as an FD?  i know the oiling is slightly better in the FD to help with the extra revs.

[grinder]

will you lot stop trying to spend my money !! LOL

its an interesting project - its just a lot of readin up on !!

just weighing up the pro\'s and con\'s at the mo ( down side is that i cant play in the 100mph challenge )

Stu

[FD3SNuttah]

G - the cheapest way to get lower temps is to stick some ice cubes in your washer bottle and then put the windscreen washer hoses so that they spray directly onto your intercooler!! hehe wont cost you a penny! :p

fitting a front mount cant be that hard - best to look at how other people have done it and then see if you can make your own setup better!

[retrobate]

Stu,

If you are only after 200bhp at the rear wheels - then just do a decat straight through 3" exhaust, decent induction kit - which I think you have, and an aftermarket rom tuned ECU replacement - that will get you close on 250-270 bhp at the flywheel - but you will have to run on good fuel - 99 or Opti to be sure of keeping away from detonation - intake temp will still be warm - hot, but fueling changes in the ecu will help a bit there.

If you want to run a bit more boost then you will then need to think about cooling.

I\'ll second that. I\'ve got a dyno printout for 197 bhp at the wheels, and that was before the ECU swap. Aiming to get to another rolling road soon, and would hope for about 220ish brake at the wheels with the current set-up. And believe me Stu, it\'s more than enough to er... worry Scooby drivers!

[sadgoth]

G - the cheapest way to get lower temps is to stick some ice cubes in your washer bottle and then put the windscreen washer hoses so that they spray directly onto your intercooler!! hehe wont cost you a penny! :p

fitting a front mount cant be that hard - best to look at how other people have done it and then see if you can make your own setup better!

If I can ever get the pics to Stu via MMS he may be able to upload them!

as for it not being hat hard, hmmm, no it isn\'t but it does require a lot of thought and planning!

[jetpilot]

If you run a front mount, you may have to start thinking about cooling issues with the rad, you are blocking a massive amount of area for the air to pass through to the rad!

[sadgoth]

If you run a front mount, you may have to start thinking about cooling issues with the rad, you are blocking a massive amount of area for the air to pass through to the rad!

depends on a) size of FMIC and b) how far forward from the rad it is put, etc etc again it all comes down to planning.

Do you have any rad cooling issues with yours Jon? I saw the setup that Tim & Matt did on yours and I thought there was a good amount of space between the IC and Rad

[jetpilot]

Hi Mark
Yeah there was a good amount of space, but it still ran hot in my opinion, ideally i would have liked to V mount it! I got a custom rad built so not sure if that was really up to the job, would be interested to see the results you get from yours! I also think it would have been better to get a lower rated thermostat and an electric water pump, as with mine, the rad always seemed warm to touch, never to hot, so i kinda decided that the water was never being pumped around the engine quick enough.

[sadgoth]

well, looks like I\'m going to wind up replacing the FMIC with a bigger one and bigger diameter piping before I\'ve even had it on the road! GRRRRR, I hadn\'t thought about mentioning future-proofng to the lads in Dorset! If I\'m after a bigger Turbo (T70) the IC and piping won\'t be up to the task!

[antnicuk]

Hi Mark
Yeah there was a good amount of space, but it still ran hot in my opinion, ideally i would have liked to V mount it! I got a custom rad built so not sure if that was really up to the job, would be interested to see the results you get from yours! I also think it would have been better to get a lower rated thermostat and an electric water pump, as with mine, the rad always seemed warm to touch, never to hot, so i kinda decided that the water was never being pumped around the engine quick enough.

i had a fmic on my FD and even with no stat, an electric water pump and uprated fans, it still ran hotter than i would have liked.  I put the I/C flat in the bottom of he engine ay in my FC for this reason, i get the same air temps (colder with w/inj) but the stock rad and fan on my fd keep the temps a steady 85 - 87, bearing in mind that i still have the stock waer pump and stat and in it which opens at 84.  
At the ring, it was 33 degrees outside and i was giving it stick, the most the temp got to was 97.  As soon as i came off the track it went down to 86 again.  In traffic it never goes above 86 whatever the temp outside.

Its quite easy to fit it flat aswell, as you can leave the rad, fan and cowel all in situ.  you can buy the huge universal i/c on ebay for £130 which fits perfectly.   :Laugh

[Shingo]

Its quite easy to fit it flat aswell, as you can leave the rad, fan and cowel all in situ.  you can buy the huge universal i/c on ebay for £130 which fits perfectly.   :Laugh

What do you mean by flat?