Water Temp!!!!!

[iaint]

Well, ok. Technically, 130 degrees is the boiling point of water at the pressure it runs in the coolant system. but once you\'ve added anti-freeze, it changes.....but i\'m not sure if the boiling point goes up or down to be honest.

Check the coolant info on whatever you use but they generally show the freezing and boiling points on a table at different coolant:water mixes.  The majority of them raise the boiling point of the system as well as lowering the freezing point and protecting engine components from corrosion.

If the coolant used lowers the boiling point use a different coolant - you don\'t want it boiling at 95C!!!

For example: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=ROAD&pcode=CAS4LIFE

[clive]

Here a question for you all,

What do they use currantly for coolant in FI cars ?

[fro]

I guess they\'d be constrained by safety regulations? so either water, evans npg or similar. Not ethylene glycol

[checkpoint-direct.co.uk]

the std gauge def stays in the middle.  Dont want to give the beast any stick now just in case!  might just remove the thing and not worry about it!  Thanks for the replys by the way!

[iaint]

I guess they\'d be constrained by safety regulations? so either water, evans npg or similar. Not ethylene glycol

Nothing in teh F1 regs to indicate what fluids are allowed or not.  Plenty on materials and routing for the coolant header tanks and hoses but nowt on the nature of the coolant.  Could use anything from water to some space age goop!

interestingly a google on "formula one coolant" doesn\'t bring anythng up that discusses the contents.

The system could happily run water though because

1) It can run at much higher pressures than a production system thus raising boiling point
2) They don\'t have to worry about corrosion over numbers of years as the external bits are replaced every race and the engine only lasts for 2!

F1 isn\'t a good comparison to our cars for technology as the scope of the system is too different.  GT endurance racing (or even prototype sports) would e more realistic and useful.

[grinder]

easy way to check ( and yes mine is in the same place but reads just fine )

remove the probe out the adaptor ( its ok water wont come out )

boil the kettle - stick water in a cup - walk to car - stick probe in cup

gauge should read about 88 - thats the EASIEST way i know to check

mine is in the same place - and on the way home last night say at a steady 87 - but thats on a FC

does the gauge drop to 0 over night ??

i have an oil temp gauge that was droppped by the better half - and thats reads about 120 which is bad - thing is - it only starts at about 80

i tested this with water ( 2 probes in the cup ) - water read 88 and oil read 120

check it first before throwing it away

stu

[checkpoint-direct.co.uk]

it weird i went in this morning and it read 126,  after starting her up it dropped to 40 then i watched it creep back up to 130!  was wandering if i am seeing these temps would the seals have failed by now?  or am i just waiting for the worst.  STD gauge remains in the middle.

[ro284]

As i said the cooling fans would be on if it was really reaching that temp!
Bob

[grinder]

try the hot water test

OR - you will like this - my gauge got stuck ... SO .............

1 cup of boiling water - one cup of cold tap water

dunk it in the hot - wait for it to get to a fixed temp - then into the cold wait for it to drop , then into the hot

eventually it settled at 0

and all this is FREE .. best way in my mind !! LOL

Stu

[gsb876]

it weird i went in this morning and it read 126,  after starting her up it dropped to 40 then i watched it creep back up to 130!  was wandering if i am seeing these temps would the seals have failed by now?  or am i just waiting for the worst.  STD gauge remains in the middle.

Like i said if the standard gauge is in the middle then your "aftermarket" gauge is deffo faulty as the standard one moves at 120oC, so if you are seeing 130+ its not right chap :Thumbs-up

Do the Grinder tight a$$ test :Laugh