water injection + failsafe

Started by vxer, June 15, 2006, 10:01:59 AM

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vxer

Hi there,

My previous objections to fitting water injection have been that once the car is tuned for it, if you run out of water on full boost one day the engine can go pop.

I don\'t want this.

Therefore, what about this possible solution:

*) Change the air temperature sensor for that fast reacting one in another thread.

*) Change the apexi PFCs AIT retard facility so that it retards the timing a lot earlier - say at 40C degrees

Then, if you run out of water and the temp shoots up, the PFC knows about it much quicker and the timing is retarded to save the engine.

What do you guys think about it? :)

Cheers, Paul.

Prof

If your running a boost controller, then you could force the lower boost setting when the water runs out.

I plan to use an eManage to control larger injectors, and in addition control the water injection based on boost pressure.  If the water runs out, the eManage can limit the power available.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


vxer

Quote from: ProfIf your running a boost controller, then you could force the lower boost setting when the water runs out.

I plan to use an eManage to control larger injectors, and in addition control the water injection based on boost pressure.  If the water runs out, the eManage can limit the power available.

Thats the other way to do, i guess. Don\'t think you can do that with the PFC, however. :-/

Cheers, Paul.

bnaellis

Why not just run a water level sensor with your water injection kit, with an led inside the car that  lights up when you are low on water?

Fish

If using the ERL injection kit, just add the DDS 3. This will show how much water is flowing.

Fish

Prof

Problem with that is the interface between the seat and steering wheel does not always react correctly to the led  :driving   :D

In all seriousness, if you can provide some kind of automatic \'ease-off\', it may prevent damage in a moment of over exited driving. :Thumbs-up
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


M@r]{

Has the FD got a warning level indicator on your washer fluid?  If so perhaps you could use that for your water injection?  I dont use my washers as I did want to drill holes in my bonnet  :)

vxer

Quote from: rotaryimports.comWhy not just run a water level sensor with your water injection kit, with an led inside the car that  lights up when you are low on water?

I\'d rather have something totally fool proof, because as Prof says, **** happens! :)

Ta, Paul.

Ed_RX7

If you are that worried, why dont you just have the water there for safety.........i.e dont tune for it?....that way your covered either way?
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vxer

Quote from: Ed_RX7If you are that worried, why dont you just have the water there for safety.........i.e dont tune for it?....that way your covered either way?

I guess because if i had it on there, i\'d want to tune for it, otherwise you miss out on all that potential. :)

Also, my plan isn\'t actually difficult to implement - the temperature sensor should plug right in and a mapper can adjust the PFC\'s retard threshold really easily.

I was just trying to gague whether ppl thought it would work, really...

Ta, Paul.

cannibal


NixRX7

When i ordered my cooling mist kit i also got them to send me a low level switch as well that fits in their supplied containers, when i finally get round to fitting the WI i will fit the sensor a few inchs from the bottom so when it does go off i still have plenty left, couple that with the fact that the injectors have blocked nozzle warnings that light up LED\'s on your dash will make it a pretty safe system.

Nick

Prof

I have the coolingmist kit as well - with the clogged nozzle detector.

I was planning on having a larger tank in the boot, and using a switch to feed a low pressure pump to top up the smaller tank in the engine bay.  This keeps the piping short for the high pressure side.

I was still thinking of an elegant way to kill the low pressure pump and cut the max boost when the water nearly runs out in the engine bay tank - maybe I need 2 switches set for different levels, or 1 switch in each tank.

I still think vxer is on the right track by wanting to build in damage limitation.  It\'s way to easy to ignore a led on its own - a buzzer is a bit more difficult to ignore !  :D

Also why bother with WI if you don\'t need it / haven\'t tuned for it?  :confused:
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


NixRX7

I suppose if you was good with electronics then you could fit a  boost controller with a high/low switch, then instead of having the manual HIGH/Low boost switch remove the switch and connect the wires to a relay that was switched by the low level sensor in your water bottle.

That way you get high boost when you have a full bottle and as soon as the low level sensor triggers it switchs the relay and turns your boost controller to low level boost only till you top up again.


Nick

Prof

I\'m using the profec B spec 2 - which has a switch input - problem is it toggles the boost setting rather than switches to Hi or Lo. :(
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex