Water Injection :)

[sdminus]

Blitzboy... If you need or want any input on the water injection then pm me on fduk.

Scott

[BlitzBoy]

cheers I shall be calling on your knowledge when I get it Scott

[Aaron@gotham]

Aquamist 2d is the best bang for the buck.  We have sold tons of them and installed about 30 of them on our customers cars.

-Aaron
//www.gothamracing.com

[Jonathan_F]

Quick worry.
The temperature sensor is slow acting on the RX7 right. So when the water kicks in at say 0.85 bar and knocks the temp down by 10-20°C (I\'ve read that 30° is possible) then your running lean until the sensor cools enough to inform the ecu and then you get the extra fuel required.
Has anyone tried removing the plastic from around the sensor to improve its response? Or changed to a faster type?
Is it a thermocouple or thermister type?

My worry is with this kit you run lean and det on the transition. I\'d use the expensive but variable kit myself. IMHO
Jon

[Jonathan_F]

Aquamist 2d is the best bang for the buck.  We have sold tons of them and installed about 30 of them on our customers cars.

-Aaron
//www.gothamracing.com

Is that a variable kit Aaran?

Regards,
Jon

[maximtaylor]

Its no more dangerous than sitting heat soaked at the lights, then gunning it. Same thing happens - intakes drop, sensor drops slowly.

A variable WI kit wont make the sensor work any quicker!

The best solution would be to move the sensor from under the plenum to a cool location where you get a true measurement of intake temp without influence from other heat sources, but you find me a spot under our bonnets  

Quick worry.
The temperature sensor is slow acting on the RX7 right. So when the water kicks in at say 0.85 bar and knocks the temp down by 10-20°C (I\'ve read that 30° is possible) then your running lean until the sensor cools enough to inform the ecu and then you get the extra fuel required.
Has anyone tried removing the plastic from around the sensor to improve its response? Or changed to a faster type?
Is it a thermocouple or thermister type?

My worry is with this kit you run lean and det on the transition. I\'d use the expensive but variable kit myself. IMHO
Jon

[sdminus]

I think the 2d system is the variable kit that monitors the primary fuel injector and varies the liquid flow to that.

I am not a great fan of staged systems. They have huge limitaions. in a perfect world you would control the flow with a rev vs boost table ( ermmmm.... sounds a bit like an ecu fuel map....)
With my new set up 2 weeks ago we were out ( me and borgue ) mapping the car on a very hot day. os air temp was about 26 deg C. We stoped off for lunch at a service station and to review the logs in detail. When we hit the road again the ait had hit 55 deg C. It would have still died if i had wound it up to full boost but with a few gentle squirts the ait came down to ambiant within a mile. When we shut the car down in the car park on Lotus island the throttle body was so cold that it felt like it had been in the fridge.

Remember water is not a fuel so imho you dont wanna ingest it to the rotor housings. You want to fully atomise the water Your A:L ratio will drastically alter/ decrease when the ait drops. ( the amount is not linear ) So from day to day the amount will change just the same way as the fuel requirements change at differant temps.

Scott

[fro]

Its no more dangerous than sitting heat soaked at the lights, then gunning it. Same thing happens - intakes drop, sensor drops slowly.

how much fuel does the power fc pull out at high intake air temps? This is something that worries me about drag racing situations (since we\'ll all be sitting in a queue for a while beforehand at rotorstock) :2Confused

[antnicuk]

i think you will find it puts fuel in to make it safe not take it out.   thats why every one pushes the car in the que

[fro]

i think you will find it puts fuel in to make it safe not take it out.   thats why every one pushes the car in the que

ahh good, that makes more sense

[JayDee]

power fc takes fuel out the higher the intake temp unless you change the values in the table.

J

[maximtaylor]

Stock correction factors are:

Air Temp ¦ Correction factor

80C          0.957
50C          0.984
30C          1.012
10C          1.055
-10C         1.102
-30C         1.148

So, lets assume we approach traffic lights with intakes at around 35C. Correction factor around zero.

Lights take forever to change and intakes reach 60C. Your engine will be receiving around 0.97 correction, so 3% less fuel for a short while, until the air temp sensor drops again.

-3% correction works out around  half an a/f correction approx, so changes a tune of 10.5:1 to around 11:1 temporarily.

Because I run a big front mount, and I know that our weather never reaches above 30C, my \'true\' intake temp never goes much above this, I have changed the 50C and 80C corrections to 1

[Mr J.T]

Stock correction factors are:

Air Temp ¦ Correction factor

80C          0.957
50C          0.984
30C          1.012
10C          1.055
-10C         1.102
-30C         1.148

So, lets assume we approach traffic lights with intakes at around 35C. Correction factor around zero.

Lights take forever to change and intakes reach 60C. Your engine will be receiving around 0.97 correction, so 3% less fuel for a short while, until the air temp sensor drops again.

-3% correction works out around just over half an a/f correction approx, so changes a tune of 10.5:1 to around 11:1 temporarily.

Because I run a big front mount, and I know that our weather never reaches above 30C, my \'true\' intake temp never goes much above this, I have changed the 50C and 80C corrections to 1

just when you thought owning and running a rex was simple LMAO :Giggle  :rolleyes:

[maximtaylor]

Hahaha!!!

Theres more, it gets worse than that

just when you thought owning and running a rex was simple LMAO :Giggle  :rolleyes:

[Mr J.T]

go on enlighten me! i\'ve just got mine running bang on. am planning to invest in WI with bigger injectors more boost etc etc. but think i need to talk to you about things first lol