Single Turbo Help

[dturpin]

Hello everyone, I am currently rebuilding my 92 FD and have decided to go to single turbo as the exhaust housing on my twins was cracked (perfect excuse).  
Basically I am after some help as to what to do to convert my engine to a single turbo set up.  I have brought a Garrett HKS T04e kit second hand with downpipe and external wastegate.  I would like to be running somewhere around the 350BHP at the wheels when I get it set up, if that is possible.  
I know that I need to uprate my injectors and my fuel pump, I am just not to sure what size injectors I would need and the same for the fuel pump.  I also know that I will have to modify the vacuum system to run the single turbo I just dont know what I have got to do exactly (loads of pipes)!.  I have got an Apexi Power FC, will I need to change any of the settings on this?  I know I wont be able to set it up myself but I will need to drive it somewhere to get it set up when the rebuild is complete.
I am doing the rebuild myself and have got 2mm tips is this ok or would I need to go to 3mm?
If there is anything I have missed off just say, any advice would be greatly appreciated as I know there are some serious RX7 brains on here how have helped me in the past.

[Grizzly]

TBH you would be better searching some of the Old Posts.

Single Turbo\'s are usaly one of the Last things to be fitted IMO, They need a good fuel system (inc PFC),Boost controler,Intercooler,Clutch Thats just to make it go faster, you also need Suspension and Brakes once to go past a level.

As for Fuel systems, It depends if you want to go bigger? Most people say stock Primarys and 1600cc secondrys will be more than enough for what you want but if you use 1600\'s make sure you buy a good Fuel rail to match.

2 or 3mm?? This is an old question, i personaly think 3mm\'s are only used where the Rotors are out of Tolarance but people think it will save there engine if they have a Det? At the end of the Day its all about who sets it up and how safe its set up.

[John Yorke]

1st point - re-build, if it is DIY get a good rebuild kit, 2mm seals are fine
2nd point - 350atw is do-able IF you are doing a big port and have the zorst
3rd         - Running that sort of power you need to keep her cool
               Big rad, FMIC / V mount / Charge cooler, cold air feed to turbo
4th         - Fuel system, 1500 secondary\'s, uprated pump, FPR
5th         - Drive train , a clutch to take the power, bracing for the axle
6th         - Good rubber and bushes to keep it on the road, uprated brakes

Dont forget to tell your insurance of the mods. :3Confused
I would not be running an external wastegate \'cause of the noise problems, best to plumb it back into the exhaust.
Think that is the basics, best of luck.

[dturpin]

I have got a greddy fmic, hks twin plate clutch, and hks hyper max coilover\'s has got exhaust just not sure what make it is, all this was on the car when I brought it, saved me having to buy it and fit it.  I also have already got a PFC was one of the first things I have brought.
The external wastegate has been plumbed back into the down pipe so should be ok with the noise factor.
Anymore advice would be apprecited, thanks for the help so far.

[antnicuk]

I\'m bored on Night duty so i do my best to bore you (and whoever reads this) with my own personal experiences and advice,   i\'m sure others will have different opinions.

I had an FD with a similar spec to yours which i rebuilt/ported and fitted a TO4E ,  i never had it dynoed (mapped on the road) but i ran 12.5 1/4\'s consistently on road tyres.

Rebuild:

As mentioned,  2 mm seals are perfectly ok,  they see a lot more hp than you hope to create.
Once apart you will need to port the rotor housings exhaust port and the inlet ports on the plates if you want 350 rwhp with that turbo. You could always send them to someone like reworx to have them ported and put the engine back together yourself or just get the die grinder out but i wouldnt advise it if you have no experience.

Plumbing:

Once your block is back to gether and in the car with the turbo on you can bin the rats nest completely, all the solanoids and vacume pipes,  you only need to keep vacume pipes for you FPR, Oil Injectors, boost controller/gauge, and map sensor (there may be something else but i cant think of it ATM) there are plenty enought take offs to run these things once you have put the engine back in.  The best thing to do is cut all the crap off the coil pack cage just leaving enough to bolt the coils to the block.

Wiring:

Make sure you are careful with the wiring loom as they are usually brittle.  You can seal up or cut out all the solanoid wires and just keep whats left. (inj\'s, TPS, CAS, OMP, water/air temp sensors etc)

Fueling:

There are several options and its for you to decide what you want to do but either 850 primaries with 1300 2nds should give enough for 350 rwhp or leave the stock primaries and get a 1600 2nds kit. (some bad reports of the 1300s but cant speak personally).  A lot of people run the walbro pump for ease and cheapness, i\'m not sure what it will flow but i know an 040 will flow 350 atw\'s. Although tank mounted, it can suffer if you are low on fuel round the bends.  Other more expensive options are skyline pumps or an 044 with a swirl pot will guarantee you enough fuel.

Apexi:

You can do the basics with a commander which will allow you to change the turbo to non sequential and change the injector sizes, this will be fine to run it in and then take it to get it mapped before you give it any stick.

I think i have covered what you asked,  good luck, it will be worth it.

[dturpin]

Antnicuk thanks for all that advice will come in very helpful, wasnt boring at all as I didint know any of it really.  Just one thing really, is it abosulty neccesary to get it ported, or would it be ok to leave it standard?  If it is neccesarry what sort of power can be acheived without porting?

Here is a picture of my new turbo.

[John Yorke]

Without porting expect 300ish atw, to get the benifit of a single you have to port otherwise you will see more lag.

[dturpin]

So if i went for 300 BHP at wheels with a single turbo would i still need to port or could i get away without it?

[antnicuk]

As John Y says, you should manage a touch over 300 rwhp on stock ports with that turbo but if you want 350 i would port.

If you have the engine apart you may as well port it, it shouldnt cost you too much and its about the only thing you cant do once the engine is back in.  It will help with spool up and give you more power and you wont notice any negatives.