Why do our engines keep blowing up?

[g11ary]

Originally posted by maximtaylor
AND you have those fancy ceramic seals don\'t you Gary???

They must help?

Regards

Max

Thats exactly my point if you want big power you must be spending the money to make it reliable, it would be no good building an engine from second hand parts and slapping on a huge turbo, then complaining when it goes pop.

If the engine is built correctly ported, ceramics, even dowled, how many dowled cars out there? and mapped used the best ecu\'s and maps then the cars will last that much longer.
Also poeple dont ever mention that it a engine has popped after 20-30k that I cocider good if you think what pressures these high perf cars are running, you cant expect a 400-500 bhp car to run as long as your old stock motor.

In Aug we spent 2 days at n/burg and 2 days at spa, at Spa I roughly calculate that I drove a min 200 miles around the track just in 2 days. 200 bloody hard miles, mostly in the 4-6000 rev range. We saw off some bloody fast cars and pushed these cars to there limits most of the time, dont also forget there only 2 rotors with the capacity of 1300cc, seeing off much bigger cars, think of the stress they were under.

I can only put that success down to the engine work of Carl and brilliant map supplied by Ant

[BlitzBoy]

So what Boost levels will the Apexi ECU safely handle with standard injectors,twin turbo setup, Performance Exhaust and Intake?

[maximtaylor]

Cheers Gary - my thoughts are that perhaps the ceramic seals are far less likely to warp under severe heat and pressure than the metal type seals.

We already know they can take a lot more knock abuse (although they will explode eventually).

Would it be reasonable to assume that ceramic seals keep there shape and tolerances better under these stresses? Carl?

One more thing Gary, you\'re car is damned quick (I know because I went around Spa on a couple of Banzai laps with you - good fun!), BUT and it is a big but - were you not running 0.9 bar boost at the time? What are you running up to now out of interest?

I started the thread on the assumption that going over 14 psi appears to be the problem area. You were at about 13psi. Within what I would think would be \'safe\' for 97/98 octane.

I Like your hit list Glenn each of those topics need\'s it\'s own thread....hope everyone has time on their hands

Regards

Max

[John Yorke]

Great thread:D   - My 1st question is where is this air temp sensor situated, if this is so critical at WOT should this not be addressed when the engine is being tuned?
Like G11ARY and Max I did the Ring and Spa [not quite as quick as Gary - but faster than Max {only cause you were runnin in!}] and had no probs - my rebuilt engine has now done close to 12k and has been brilliant, Im just concerned about the top end mapping and heat issues - Never thought about a heat sheild between inlet manifold and turbo. I have been addressing the cold air charge and I think looking into some form of ducting to the turbo area might improove matters.
My 2 rotors worth:wave

[BlitzBoy]

Cool so up to 14psi on a upgraded ECU is quite reasonably safe if everything thing else is working correctly, obviously passing 14 psi you needed bigger injectors, Fuel pump, INtercooler, even Radiator, I can see how a front mount intercooler would interupt air flow to the rad, thats why the VMount Rad and Cooler fitted to Miguel\'s car looks ideal.

Hell since I fixed my car 10 psi seems well quick with the decat much faster then when I bought it , I cant imagine what 14 will feel like let alone passed that.

Max I heard the GT35/40 is at its most efficiant when it runs 18 psi, any plans to map it for that Boost level?, Tim Possingham (Horsepowerinabox) reckons at that boost level you should at least get 450 at the wheels

[Carl]

Originally posted by maximtaylor
Would it be reasonable to assume that ceramic seals keep there shape and tolerances better under these stresses? Carl?

Hi Max,
the ceramic can handle detonation much much more than steel seals but they also do not wear and so the seal gaps do not open up as much.They are also lighter than stock seals and stay on the rotor housings at revs and do not skip.
They are better at handling high boost too with it\'s subsequent higher combustion pressures.
Kind regards
Carl

[maximtaylor]

No plans for 18 psi on this engine, 17 tops soon perhaps. I\'ll get a fresh one made up to spec for it next year, hopefully

Scared to go beyond 14.5 psi at the moment, hence the thread and why I have had Electric water pump and Water Injection just fitted.

Problem is, experimenting can get damned expensive if engine failures are going to occur along the way.

Go for 1.5 bar Gary, log everything and post your progress don\'t take any notice of Carl screaming \'NO!\'

Regards

Max

[Carl]

Originally posted by maximtaylor




Go for 1.5 bar Gary, log everything and post your progress don\'t take any notice of Carl screaming \'NO!\'


Not on this engine but yes on the other in the black one as it is dowelled.
Kind regards
Carl

[g11ary]

the car has two boost settings, 1 bar which is what it runs most days, and 1.2 bar.

The only times i have run her at 1.2 bar is once killing a poker turbo (honest he asked for it) and santa pod for the 3 runs and the last half day at SPA. At half a day that must have been equiv to 100 miles.

Only stating what I experiance, as my knowledge is zilch and sould prob shut up.

I might be tempted at 1.5 bar have to see about the map, and what is optimum for t04e

[BlitzBoy]

So how much would a rebuilt engine with Ceramic seals and dowelled cost approx Carl?

[John Yorke]

So where is this air temp sesor situated?
 Blitzboy: hope you have an aftermarket ecu:D
14psi is plenty on the twin setup!!

[BlitzBoy]

Na no ECU thats why I will only run 10psi for now, hmm Carl\'s Dowelled up and ceramic seals engine sounds tempting!

[20B_boy]

What are Ianetti\'s going for these days? About £1K-1.5K a set?

A rebuilt, ported, dowelled motor running Ianetti\'s is gonna cost you a good few quid mate - then you need all the hardware to run it safely; start saving!

[John Yorke]

How are you controlling the 10psi, with de-cat, down pipe and induction you are in danger of boost creep and running lean - re-buildsville:mad:

[BlitzBoy]

Hee Hee I thought of that John before fitting the stuff, I fitted a boost gauge first then a dawes device on the wastgate actuator signal pipe, soon as fixed the boost leak it lept to 14psi yikes!
I immediatly stopped the car adjusted the dawes device, it now holds 10 psi after a bit of fiddling, it spikes sometimes at 10.5 in the cold mornings.

20B_BOY are "Ianetti\'s" the make of ceramic seals?